Tag Archives: Paris

Original things to do over the festive season in Paris

The end-of-year festive season is one of the loveliest times of year in Paris. The shops put out their finest wares, the city streets are decked in lights and holiday markets pop up around the city. While the lights on the Champs Elysées and the window displays of les grands magasins are world famous, there are a lot of other ways in which we can suggest enjoying the festive season in Paris.

REcyclerie Credit: Adrien Roux

REcyclerie (and top photo) Credit: Adrien Roux

Alternative Holiday Markets

Paris has dozens of holiday markets, however, you can get some eco-friendly and sustainably minded gifts at these alternative markets. Two former stations on La Petite Ceinture railway in the 18th arrondissements (cool hangouts in their own right!) are hosting marchés de Noël éco-responsables.  La REcyclerie is hosting three on-going markets daily through December 18th and Le Hasard Ludique’s market is taking place on Sunday December 11th and 18th. Another great option is The Foundation GoodPlanet which is organising a Christmas “supermarket” with environmentally-friendly and “solidaire” gifts, plus they are also giving you the opportunity to make your own gifts during workshops held on the weekends of December 10th and 11th and 17th and 18th.

Marché de Noel de Provins

Marché de Noël de Provins

A highlight of the holiday season in the Ile-de-France region is the famed Medieval holiday fair of Provins. This year it’ll be taking place the weekend of December 10th and 11th. Over the course of the week the picturesque town east of the capital takes a journey back to Medieval times with costumed performances, music, artisans stands and food. If you have a Navigo pass, you can easily and freely get to Provins from Gare de l’Est station. ore information on the festivities (in French) here.

Credit: Musée des Arts Forains

Le Festival du Merveilleux – Musée des Arts Forains 

The holiday season offers the perfect opportunity to visit one of the most unique museums of Paris. The Musée des Arts Forains is a private museum of vintage funfair rides and related objects. If you saw Woody Allen’s film Midnight in Paris, then you’ve already seen the venue, used for a party scene in the movie. The museum doesn’t hold regular opening hours, but instead is usually open over the holiday season when it holds a magical event: Le Festival du Merveilleux. From December 26th to January 2nd 2023, the museum (located near Bercy Village, another great place over the holidays!) will be open every day from 10am-6pm. It is beautifully decorated in festive flare, there are special performances food stands and the chance to try out some of the vintage rides.

La Villette Photo: Studio Toer Firefly field © Vivid

Unique Illuminations

The light show put on during the holiday season doesn’t only take place on the streets of Paris, this year there are two alternative “light shows”. Parc de La Villette is hosting a light festival which involves an immersive path through this modern park, lit by the illuminated creations by artists. It is taking place evenings from December 15th to January 1st, 2023 and on December 10th, you can get involved yourself during the lanterne festival  (free event). The Jardin des Plantes is once again holding a special illuminated exhibition. On through January 15th, 2023, this historic park comes to life in the evening via giant illuminated animals. This year’s theme is mini-insects in extra large size. Learn more at this link.

Restos du Coeur

Get involved!

If you’re in Paris over the holiday season and would like to get involved in a spirit of giving back to the community, there are various ways to do this. Les Restos du Coeur, an association which provides meals and other support to those in need, is looking for different types of volunteers, including gift-wrappers (for which people give a donation, sign-up here). Another association which provides meals, la Mie de Pain, is often looking for volunteers for their Christmas Eve dinner service, which could be a nice option if you’re alone for the day. You can send them an email to check at: benevoles@miedepain.asso.fr or here. The Salvation Army tends to need extra assistance over the holidays, see more on their website.

Wishing you all a joyeux and safe time over the holiday season!

Architecturally Interesting Places of Worship in Paris that Aren’t Notre-Dame

Nearly three years after the tragic fire which devastated Notre-Dame Cathedral,  the restorations are advancing safely and steadily.  The Cathedral’s unfortunate closure has provided Parisians and visitors alike the opportunity to study, visit or rediscover some of the other unique and architecturally significant places of worship in Paris. You can view some of our favourites below.

Agoudas Hakehilos Synagogue. Photo: Gerd Eichmann / CC

Agoudas Hakehilos Synagogue

There are a number of beautiful synagogues in Paris, however, the one on rue Pavée is especially unique. Designed by Hector Guimard, who designed the emblematic green metro entrances still standing today, the synagogue is an Art Nouveau jewel. Completed in 1914, it is hard to imagine both its true size and its beauty from the exterior, nor that it is made of concrete, however, its undulating façade, decorated in floral motives, the Star of David and Tables of Law, do hint to its splendour. Inside, the long and narrow building has an impressive structure iron structure, typical of the turn of the 20th century, as well as ornate wooden decorative features.

La Grande Mosquée de Paris. Photo: LPLT / CC

La Grande Mosquée de Paris

The centre of France’s Muslim community, this serene place of worship in the 5th arrondissement is also the oldest Mosque in Paris. Completed in 1926, the Grand Mosque was commissioned by the French State as a token of appreciation to the Muslim soldiers who fought for France in World War I. Moorish in style, architect Maurice Tranchant de Lunel was inspired by the el-Qaraouyyîn Mosque located in Fez, Morocco. The vast 7,500 square-metre site has a 33-metre-high minaret, a grand entrance door with stylised floral motifs and a large courtyard with Arab style gardens, home to an enchanting tea salon and restaurant from where you can contemplate the building’s architecture over a mint tea and North African pastry.

Saint-Jean de Montmartre

Saint-Jean de Montmartre

Saint-Jean de Montmartre

While the more famous Sacré-Coeur Basilica usually steals the limelight when it comes to churches in Montmartre, this église found on Place des Abbesses is perhaps more architecturally significant. The parish church was constructed from 1894 to 1904 and designed by architect Anatole de Baudot, a student of Viollet-le-Duc, who oversaw the 19th-century renovations on Notre-Dame and many other historic sites around France. Art Nouveau in style with Moorish influences, it instantly stands out due to its building materials: brick and reinforced concrete — the first church in the world to use this newly invented building technique. It also features lovely ceramic work by artist Alexandre Bigot, known for his impressive work on the iconic Art Nouveau building at 29 Avenue Rapp.

Cathédrale de la Sainte-Trinité. Photo: EgliseRusse.eu

Cathédrale de la Sainte-Trinité

If you’re walking or boating along the Seine, an unusual, glimmering sight appears on the Left Bank a few blocks from the Eiffel Tower; the Cathedral de la Sainte-Trinité, one of Paris’s two Russian Orthodox cathedrals. Opened in 2016, the complex on the Quai Branly comprises of the Holy Trinity Cathedral and the Russian Orthodox Spiritual and Cultural Center. Designed by renowned French architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte, the church is modelled after the Dormition Cathedral in Moscow and features five gilded onion domes. The modern building starkly contrasts the other Russian Orthodox cathedral in Paris, the mid-19th century Cathédrale Saint Alexandre Nevsky, located in the 8th district and also worth visiting.

American Cathedral in Paris

Photo: American Cathedral in Paris

American Cathedral of the Holy Trinity

Another place of worship dedicated to the Holy Trinity, this beautiful American Episcopal Church has been serving the Anglophone community of Paris since 1886. The Neo-Gothic design of English architect George Edmund Street, with pointed arches and stained-glass windows, is reminiscent of Notre-Dame. The 20th century saw two additions; the 85-metre tower, which is one of the tallest in Paris, and the peaceful cloisters, a memorial to the American soldiers and civilians killed in France during WWI.

Grande-Pagode_de_Vincennes

Grande Pagode de Vincennes. Photo: Poulpy / CC

Grande Pagode de Vincennes and Kagyu-Dzong Buddhist Centre

Perhaps the most original of the list, this wooden structure, nestled within the Bois de Vincennes in eastern Paris, was originally built as the Pavilion of Cameroon for the 1931 Colonial Exhibition. While most of the other pavilions of the exhibition were torn down, in 1977 this building was restored and converted into a Buddhist temple. Today it houses the French headquarters of the International Buddhist Institute and inside the pagoda is the largest Buddha statue in Europe. Situated nearby is the Kagyu-Dzong Buddhist Centre, a Tibetan style temple built in 1985 and more representative of traditional Buddhist architecture.

Notre-Dame-du-Travail

Notre Dame du Travail. Photo: Velvet / CC

Notre-Dame du Travail

Another fascinating church in the 14th arrondissement, from the outside it doesn’t look particularly interesting, however, pushing open its doors you’ll discover a stunning example of Belle Epoque architectural prowess. The church was designed as a place of worship for the large influx of labourers who’d come to the city to build the 1900 Paris Exposition, many of whom were housed in what was then a principally working-class district. The nave features an soaring iron structure, resemblant of the Eiffel Tower, and made of recycled materials from the Palais de l’Industrie, a demolished building from a previous World’s Fair. The walls were also built of repurposed material, stone from the former Grenelle slaughterhouse. These elements pay homage to the typical profile of the church’s working-class parishioners.

Saint-Serge de Radonège. Photo: Saint-Serge.fr

Saint-Serge de Radonège

Originally a Lutheran Church serving the German immigrants of northern Paris, Saint-Serge de Radonège is now a Russian Orthodox church and theological institute. Located in the Buttes-Chaumont district, the church is surrounded by greenery and the exterior boasts an ornate porch in coloured wood. The interior of the church was decorated by the Russian painter Dmitri Semionovitch Stelletsky in the Russian neo-Gothic style. The church has a number of outbuildings, including a library with a significant collection of Russian books.

France to Reopen Museums, Cinemas and Theatres on 19 May 2021

After a six month closure, we are extremely pleased that cultural venues will be reopening in France as of 19 May 2021.  All museums, art galleries, theatres and cinemas may reopen, under certain conditions. Here is a summary of the new protocols and how it relates to visitors.

Déconfinement Phase 2: 19 May Reopening Conditions

As of 19 May the nation-wide curfew in France will be pushed back to 9pm. Therefore, you will have more time to be able to visit cultural sites and take in movie screenings in person.

All sites can only reopen with a reinforced sanitary protocol. As a general rule, the reopening of sites does not depend on the size of the facility, however, it is capped at 800 people at one time inside and a 1,000 outside (for example, the interior of  the Chateau de Versailles and the gardens). However, it also stipulates that there should 8 m2 per visitor until 9 June when the curfew goes up to 11 pm and the space will be 4 m2. Therefore, sites must factor this in when calculating the exact number of people inside the site at one time.

Other conditions include a one one circulation system (similar to what was enforced after last year’s lockdown), hand sanitiser available at the entrance and a preference to booking e-tickets in advance (as is already the case at the Louvre).

Bourse de Commerce - Pinault Collection

Gradual Reopening of Museums & Cultural Sites

Just because sites are allowed to reopen on 19 May, it doesn’t mean that all museums and monuments will be reopening on that exact date. For example, the doors of the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay the Centre Pompidou, the Musée de l’Orangerie and the Chateau de Versailles will be reopening on the 19th, but some sites are waiting until the weekend.

The Palais de Tokyo, Europe’s largest contemporary art centre, will be reopening on Saturday 22 May with an exhibit by performance artist Anne Imhof entitled Natures Mortes (Still Lives). Since the building is quite large, they will be respecting the maximum of 800 visitors at a time.

The highly anticipated opening of the Pinault Collection at the Bourse to Commerce will also take place on 22 May. After several years of extensive renovations, the former grain hall of the Paris central food market has been converted into a new venue of collection of contemporary art. For other venues, it’s advised to check their websites beforehand so you do not arrive to find the site closed.

Free Access for Students

Holders of a student card can obtain free entrance to most museums in Paris. For smaller museums you merely need to present your ID (student and national ID) upon entering or but for larger museums, like the Louvre, you need to book in advance a free student ticket in advance.

At time of publication, the Louvre ticket booking system was not yet activated, however, this is the link (select your date, then the ticket options will come up, you will need to proceed to the check out, but will not be charged for your ticket). The Orsay reservation system is working via this link. Select free of charge reservation, then select “add to cart”, then “I book”, skip the audioguide page by clicking then “I book”, then you’ll have the date and time option. For the Centre Pompidou, follow this link and select a free ticket for a youth or an art/conservatoire student.

Reflet-Médicis

Reflet Médicis / Facebook

Movie Theatres

The date of this new déconfinement stage falls on a Wednesday, the traditional day of the week when new films are released. As there has been a backlog of films to be released, there have have been some issues over which ones will come out first. However, film fans should have an exciting few weeks of releases. To help you decide which cinemas to go to in the city, check out our article on the Best Historic Art House Cinemas in Paris.

Enjoy this return to culture and stay safe!

la-petite-ceinture-pc-Vincent Anderlucci

The Evolving City: a New Life for the Former Petite Ceinture Railway

There are a number of interesting urban renewal projects to study in Paris and one of the most interesting is the rehabilitation of La Petite Ceinture, or “The Little Belt” in French. Over the past few decades, sections of this defunct 32-kilometre rail line which encircled Paris, have been converted into picturesque walkways and some of the former stations have been transformed into bars and cultural centres.

Map of the Petite Ceinture and Paris rail links of the 1800s.

In the mid-19th century a vast network of rail lines was created in and around Paris. Some lines were built for inter-city travel, while others were designed to transport suburban commuters in and out of the city. Certain sections of the latter are still in use, however, when the RER underground suburban train network was developed in the 1960s, most of the above-ground suburban lines within the Paris city limits were phased out. It is only in recent times that parts of these have been rehabilitated.

Coulée Verte Réné-Dumont (Promenade Plantée)

This urban renewal project started with an impressive 1.5 km long viaduct extending east from Place de la Bastille, La Coulée Verte René-Dumont, also known as the Promenade Plantée. In the late 1980s a path and garden was created atop the viaduct and the large space beneath its 64 arch was encased in massive panels of glass and turned into art galleries, artisanal workshops and design boutiques. A beautiful example of architectural preservation and repurposing, the Coulée Verte was the inspiration for numerous other projects like this, both in Paris and around the world, namely the High Line in New York.

The success of the Coulée Verte sparked the refurbishment of other disused rail lines, starting of the sections the Petite Ceinture. While the totality of the former network has not been revamped, there are a number of stretches which can be walked, or visited in some capacity.

La-Petite-Ceinture-Lily-Heise

La Petite Ceinture du 15eme

A 1.3-kilometre stretch can be walked in the 15th, starting via an entrance across from 99 rue Olivier de Serres and ending in Place Ballard. This section of tracks is one of the newer ones refurbished, opening in 2013. As you amble along the peaceful pathway, you will pass alongside the walls of buildings, examples of street art and some unique vantage points of the arrondissement. The 16th district has a revamped section called le Sentier Nature and the 12th has a nice section which connects with the Coulée-Verte Réné-Dumont.

la-recyclerie-Lily-Heise

La Recyclerie, former Petite Ceinture station

Various former stations have also been reinvented. The first of these was La Fleche d’Or, opened as an alternative concert venue and bar in the mid 1990s. Closed then reopened, then closed again, it’s since reopened as a neighborhood association and has a bar, with very reasonable prices, open to everyone (closed currently due to Covid restrictions). Two of the former stations in the 18th have been refurbished into cool contemporary venues. La Recyclerie, is an eco-responsible bar and restaurant which also has seating and a garden down by the train tracks (it is currently open and you can get takeaway food or drinks).  A little further west is Le Hasard Ludique, which also has relaxed seating alongside the tracks, in addition to food prepared by refugee chefs and a great programme of workshops and concerts (currently closed due to covid restrictions). Two refurbished stations have a chicer appeal: Le Poincon in the 14th and La Gare in the 16th.

Photo Credits:

1st image: La Petite Ceinture. Photo: Vincent Anderlucci / Flickr

Other photos by Lily Heise

Graduate Profile: Arts & Culture Writer Rawaa Talass

A wide array of students from the four corners of the globe choose to pursue the MA Programmes offered at the Paris School of Arts and Culture (PSAC). In our Alumni Spotlight series we touch base with some of our graduates to see what they are doing today and how their studies at PSAC has influenced their career path. In this edition, we connected with a graduate of our History and Philosophy of Art Master’s, arts and culture writer Rawaa Talass. She is also the founder and editor aRTproject, a daily online platform dedicated to the history of art with a focus on women in the arts from all ages. Read on to learn more about Rawaa’s background, studies and current activities.

Where are you from and what originally brought you to Paris?

I’m originally from Syria and was raised in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, where I still live. What brought me to Paris was a need to feel inspired again and to start a new experience. At that point in my life, in 2015, I had developed an interest in artists and their works and decided to study art history. I was really excited when I got into the Kent programme in Paris, which was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

 What attracted you most about studying at PSAC? 

I think location was key. For a long time, France had been renowned for promoting its rich cultural heritage through public institutions. Growing up in Dubai, we didn’t have art museums to explore. I wanted to train my eye by observing art as much as I could. One of the nice things about the MA programme was the several field trips my classmates and I were treated to. For instance, if we did a reading on Cézanne, we would go to the Musée d’Orsay to see his paintings and so on. I think to appreciate art, you need to experience it in the flesh..

 What were some of the highlights of your experience?

I have many fond memories – from the places I saw to the people I met. Strangely enough, I felt a stronger connection to my Middle Eastern roots when I was in Paris, as there are regional elements in the city’s cultural and architectural landscape — something I wrote about here.  So I would say that the highlight of my studies in Paris was meeting Empress Farah Pahlavi of Iran for an interview for my MA dissertation. It focused on her patronage of the arts in her country during the 1960s and 1970s. Due to the Islamic Revolution of 1979, her activities were brought to a halt and she is currently exiled in Paris. Looking back, my dissertation was the most extensive piece of writing I ever undertook and it taught me how to be a better researcher.

 What are you currently doing and how did that opportunity come about? 

I’m a freelance journalist, writing articles on art, culture and society of the Middle East and its diaspora communities, mostly for regional media outlets. In 2017, I was a trainee at the Art Dubai fair, where I assisted in the communications department. Through my work there, I kept coming across the name of a publication called ‘Arab News’, and when I finished my traineeship I sent the editorial team an email pitch. I wasn’t even sure I was going to get a response. To my surprise, I did. In 2018, my first article for Arab News (a Saudi-based English daily newspaper founded in 1975) was published as a front-page story, which was surreal, on the opening of a new arts centre in Dubai. I’ve been regularly and predominantly contributing articles for them ever since.

If you would like to read about a more hopeful and creative side of the Arab world, please visit www.rawaatalass.com.

Merci beaucoup Rawaa!

Connect with Rawaa on her social media platforms:

Twitter: artprojectdxb
Fondation Louis Vuitton Paris

The Evolving City: The Best Contemporary Architecture in Paris

Parisians have not always been welcoming to modern architecture. The city itself underwent massive urban restructuring in the mid-19th century during the rule of Napoléon III and overseen by Prefect Baron Haussmann. It wasn’t until a century later that the city experienced another wave of ‘modernism’, mostly relegated outside the city centre in the La Défense business district, although a few modern buildings popped up intramuros, such as the eclectic Centre Pompidou and the predominantly unpopular Tour Montparnasse. The 1980s and 90s saw the arrival of Les Grands Projets, a series of large scale building works instigated by President Mitterrand, including the Bibliothèque Nationale, the Opera Bastille, the Pyramid of the Louvre and the Grand Arche de la Défense. But how has the cityscape changed since then? From designs by Jean Nouvel to the return of Renzo Piano, here are the most notable examples of contemporary architecture in Paris built since the start of the 21st century.

Photo Credit: Fondation Louis Vuitton

Fondation Louis Vuitton – Frank Gehry (2014)

The recent building that has received the most unanimous praise from critics and citizens alike is this gleaming art centre nestled within the Bois de Boulogne woods at the western edge of Paris. In true Gehry form, mammoth curvaceous glass panels on wooden frames, nicknamed the “sails”, are at the forefront; these sit atop white blocks, or “icebergs”, which seem to float in pools of water. The sleek building hosts temporary exhibits revolving around the works of the Louis Vuitton fashion house collection, however, the building itself is well-worth visiting in its own right.

Photo Credit: Philharmonie de Paris

Philharmonie de Paris –  Jean Nouvel (2015)

No other architect has left their mark on modern Paris than Jean Nouvel. His latest Parisian building, la Philharmonie de Paris, located within the Parc de la Villette in northeastern Paris, certainly does not leave one indifferent. Created for the Symphony Orchestra of Paris, Nouvel paid particular attention to its 2,400 seat-auditorium, which has a central stage encircled by undulating tiers of seating to bring the audience as close to the musicians as possible. The eye-catching metallic exterior is enveloped in 265,000 aluminium birds which appear to swirl up around the building, perhaps dancing to the music performed within?

Photo Credit: Tribunal de Paris

Tribunal de Paris – Renzo Piano (2018)

Forty years after designing the Centre Pompidou in tandem with Richard Rogers, Italian architect Renzo Piano’s return to the Parisian architecture scene was not met with as much enthusiasm as the iconic modern art museum. The tallest building constructed in Paris since the 56-story Tour Montparnasse was completed in 1973, the new 38-floor Paris court house shimmers on the northwest fringes of the city, so much so, that the building almost goes unnoticed. The glass tower makes up for its lacklustre looks courtesy of its sustainability facilities including solar panels, enhanced thermal insulation, rainwater collection and other cutting edge eco-friendly technology.

la Seine Musicale

Photo Credit: la Seine Musicale

La Seine Musicale – Shigeru Ban and Jean de Gastines (2017)

Located in a crook of the Seine off of the southwestern suburb of Boulogne-Billancourt, the former industrial island of Île Seguin, was given new life thanks to this dazzling concert hall. A play on words blending its location and its purpose, La Seine Musicale was a collaboration between French architect Jean de Gastines and Japanese Shigeru Ban, winner of the prestigious Pritzker Prize. The oval-shaped structure is encased in glass sexagons and is hugged by a curved grouping of solar panels which creates a dramatic effect akin to a musical crescendo. The auditorium is equally impressive, with a ceiling of wooden honey-combs mirroring the exterior panels. Even if you don’t get to see the interior during one of its concerts or dance performances, a tour of the exterior still impresses.

Cité de la Mode et Design Paris

Photo Credit: Cité de la Mode et Design

La Cité de la Mode et du Design / Les Docks de Paris –  Jakob + MacFarlane (2010)

The arrival of the new Bibliothèque Nationale in 1990s, ushered in a new urban era for the northeast section of the 13th arrondissement which, especially over the last 10 years, has developed into the most exciting hub of Parisian contemporary architecture. The best known, and most recognisable example is this daring building. The French architectural firm of Dominique Jakob and Brendan MacFarlane deftly succeeded in converting an early 20th century concrete shipping depot into a hip centre for fashion and design. One can’t miss it thanks to the swooshing wave of green passageways dissecting the river-facing façade. The building houses the French Institute of Fashion, contemporary art exhibition spaces, shops and several bars on its sprawling rooftop.

Musée du Quai Branly

Photo Credit: Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac

Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac – Jean Nouvel (2006)

In the shadow of the Eiffel Tower is former President Jacques Chirac’s legacy to Paris, also designed by Jean Nouvel. According to the architect, the museum was built around the collection it was due to host; the French state’s 300,000 works from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Perched on stilts and hidden within trees, the building consists of large suspended, multi-colored boxes juxtaposed by a vast vertical garden, one of the city’s first, covering one entire wall. Rising in a spiral, the interiors guide visitors on an organic flow throughout the displays. It also has a rooftop restaurant with stunning views of the Tour Eiffel.

Tour_Triangle_Paris

Photo Credit: la Tour Triangle

This wave of contemporary architecture is far from over. Keep your eyes on the city’s horizon in the coming years for the arrival of Herzog & de Meuron’s Tour Triangle and a number of new soaring towers at la Défense, which will come dangerously close to the Eiffel Tower’s height of 324 metres.

Exploring LGBTQ History in Paris

February is LGBTQ History Month in the UK. Here at the Paris School of Arts and Culture, we are commemorating this by putting spotlight on a selection of queer writers, artists, performers, filmmakers and innovators, both French and foreign, who left an important mark on Paris, a city which has long been a more liberating and welcoming place for non-conforming creatives. Some are also featured in our MA Programmes in Film, Creative Writing and the Philosophy of Art History.

Novelist and Playwright Rachilde

Rachilde 

symbolist novelist and playwright, gender-bender Rachilde became one of the most important writers of the late 19th century. Born in the French countryside in 1860,  Marguerite Vallette-Eymery moved to Paris at the age of 18, adopting a masculine haircut, started wearing men’s clothing and took up the pen name and gender ambiguous identity of Rachilde. Introduced via a cousin to the world-renowned actress Sarah Benhardt, Rachilde quickly integrated into the Parisian cultural world. Rachilde began hosting a weekly literary salon which was popular with other non-conformist writers and intellectuals. Rachilde is best known for the controversial erotic novel, Monsieur Venus, published in 1884 and which led being tried for pornography and convicted in absentia in Belgium. 

Rachilde, along with Jane Dieulafoy and Marc de Montifaudtwo other late 19th century writers who also did not conform to the era’s notions of femininity, are examined by Dr Rachel Mesch in her recent book Before TransDr Rachel Mesch was a recent guest of  the American Library in Paris’ Evenings with AAuthor series. You can view the recording of this discussion at this link. 

Writer Oscar Wilde and lover Alfred Douglas

Oscar Wilde 

Over the last 150 years, Paris became a haven for various foreign queer creativesone of the earliest being Irish poet and playwright Oscar Wilde. In 1895, at the height of his success, Wilde was convicted of gross indecency with men and sentenced to two years of hard labour. Immediately upon his release, he exiled himself in France, first living in the northern seaside town of Berneval-le-Grand with his lover Robert Ross. This is where he wrote his last work, The Ballad of Reading Gaol (1898), a long poem describing the harsh realities of prison life. Wilde eventually moved to Paris, renting a room at l’Hôtel d’Alsace, a dingy hotel in the Saint-Germain neighhourhood which has since been transformed into the chic L’Hôtel. Impoverished, this is wherWilde tragically died of meningitis on 30 November 1900. His tomb in Pere Lachaise cemetery has become a pilgrimage site for fans the world over. In addition to Wilde’s own writings, the writer was the topic of the 2018 film The Happy Prince written and directed by, and starring Rupert Everett. 

Colette in the “Dream of Egypt” show at the Moulin-Rouge in 1907, photo: Léopold-Émile Reutlinger / CC

Colette 

Often considered as France’s greatest femme de lettres, Colette was open about her lesbian relationships (first encouraged by her first husband) and challenged gender norms throughout her career. In addition to writing, she was also a theatre performer and mime. During one such performance at the Moulin Rouge in 1907, entitled “La Reve d’Egypte (“The Dream of Egypt”), she caused an immense scandal by passionately kissing her lover, Mathilde de Morny, on stage. Colette wrote over 30 works, her most famous being the novella Gigi. Published in 1944, the book recounts the story of a young courtesan who defies tradition by marrying her wealthy lover. It was later adapted to film, first in 1949 by French director Jacqueline Audry and then in 1957 as a Hollywood musical film which went on to win Best Picture at the Academy Awards. She too was the subject of a biopic in 2018; simply entitled Colette, it was directed by Wash Westmoreland and starred Keira Knightley.

Gertrude Stein, Basket and Alice B. Toklas in LIFE Magazine, Photography by Carl Mydans

Gertrude Stein & Alice B. Toklas  

Influential figures in early 20th century literary and artistic circles, the American couple first met in Paris in 1906 and remained together until Stein’s death in 1946. In addition to collecting artthey hosted weekly salons in their apartment on rue Fleurus, which attracted to top artist and writers of the era. Stein wrote several books, including one on the great Spanish painter, Picasso(studied in our Modernism and Paris module of our Paris MA Programmes) and The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas, a quasi-memoir of their Paris years written in the voice of Alice B. Toklas. Tolkas also published a few works: two cookbooks and an autobiography entitled What Is Remembered.  

Coccinelle in Europa di Notte, directed by Alessandro Blasetti

Coccinelle 

A transgender French actress, entertainer and singer, Jacqueline Charlotte Dufresnoy, who went by the stage name Coccinelle (French for ladybug/ladybird), was the first widely publicised post-war gender reassignment case in Europe. She made her debut as a transgender performer in 1953 at Madame Arthur, Paris’s first drag cabaret (which is still open and puts on an excellent show)In 1958 she underwent a vaginoplasty in Casablanca and became a media sensation upon returning to France. Her career continued to flourish, both on stage and on screen. I1960 she married journalist Francis Bonne, which was the first transgender union to be legally recognised in FranceThroughout her life, she was also an important advocate for transgender rights. 

Living In Arcadia André Baudry  

Living In Arcadia by Julian Jackson and André Baudry

André Baudry  

A former seminarian and philosophy professorAndré Baudry founded Arcadie in 1954, France’s first organisation for “homophiles, a term Baudry preferred to “homosexuals”. A magazine and clubhouse followed soon afterwards. At the time, it was the only public voice for French gays and, over the course of its 30-year history, it became the largest group of its kind in France. The organisation garnered the support of a range of personalities from Jean Cocteau to Michel Foucault, however, that isn’t to say things were always smooth sailing. After its launch, the magazine was censured and forbidden for sale to minors. In 1955, Baudry himself was prosecuted for “outrage aux bonnes mœurs” (outrage against good morals), convicted, and fined 400,000 francs. The history of the organisation, and this time period in France, are explored in Historian Julian Jackson’s book Living in Arcadia (University of Chicago Press, 2009).  

Writer James Balwin, Giovanni’s Room (1956)

James Baldwin 

American writer and activist James Baldwin first came to Paris at the age of 24, attracted to the greater freedom France offered him as both a person of colour and a homosexual. Shortly after his arrival, Baldwin got involved in the cultural radicalism movement that was brewing in the Rive GaucheHe was also working on his second novel, Giovanni’s Roomwhich was published in 1956. Set in Paris, the story revolves around a tormented love affair between the American narrator, David, and Giovanni, an Italian bartender. The book caused considerable controversy at the time of its publication due to its homoerotic content, but went on to become a seminal work in queer literatureYou can delve further into Giovanni’s Room in this powerpoint by Kent staff member Dr Declan Kavanagh or this article in the Guardian. Baldwin spent much of the rest of his life living in France, namely in the southern French village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence, where he settled in 1970. The writer’s contributions to the Paris’s cultural heritage will be honoured with a new media library dedicated to him, scheduled to open in 2023.  

Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, 1983. Foundation Pierre Bergé Yves Saint Laurent.

Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé 

Partners in life and business, Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé’s impact on Paris’s creative world went far beyond fashion. Working as a designer for Dior, Yves Saint Laurent met businessman Pierre Bergé in 1958. They went on to launch Yves Saint Laurent’s own fashion house together in 1961. Although the couple’s relationship ended in 1976, they remained lifelong friends and business partners. In 2002 they created the Fondation Pierre-Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent in the designer’s former studio and offices, housed in a historic mansion in the 16th district of Paris. It hosts temporary exhibits on Saint Laurent’s work and provides support to cultural institutions and projects. You can view their collection online here or you may like to watch one of the two French films on the designer released in 2014; Jalil Lespert’s Yves Saint Laurent and Bertrand Bonello’s Saint Laurent, which was an official selection at that year’s Cannes Film Festival. You’ll have to watch both to decide which one you think is best! 

 

Further Resources  

120 bpm – This is another recent film we can highly recommendThe movie chronicles how ACT UP Paris fought to increase awareness of queer rights and information on the AIDS crisiin the early 1990s in France. Directed by Robin Campillo, it won the Grand Prix at Cannes in 2017 and six César Awards (the French Oscars) including Best Film. 

Les Mots à la Bouche – You can find an extensive collection of books and DVDs at this LGBTQ bookshop located in the 11th arrondissement. 

LGBTQ Centre Paris – This popular community centre in the Marais organises workshops, talkshas lending library and is a great resource on LGBTQ events, culture, wellbeing and activism in Paris.
 

What to do in Paris right now: 5 Covid and curfew safe activities 

Although many of Paris cultural institutions, including museums, historic sites and cinemas, are temporarily closed due to Covid-19 safety protocols, there are still a number of ways in which one can experience culture. From street art tours to virtual literary events, here are five creative alternatives cultural things to do in Paris that are both safe and accessible.

Street Art murals - Paris 75013

Street Art murals, Paris 75013. Photo: Lily Heise

Get Your Art Fix

Museums may be currently closed, however, most private art galleries around the city are open. Many of the best contemporary galleries are located in the Upper Marais, on and around rue Vieille du Temple (some are listed here). Or if you’re interested in more alternative contemporary art, you can discover Parisian street art by following one of these self-guided walking tours around Belleville or the 13th, two of the city’s top street art hubs.

Ten Belles Coffee Paris

Photo Courtesy of Ten Belles Paris

Enjoy Some Café Life

Although we are not able to sit on café terraces for the time being, a number of modern coffee shops are open for takeaway. Plus, the following ones are also close to great places for strolling, coffee in hand: Ten Belles (near the Canal St-Martin), Café Kitsuné (close to the Palais-Royal Garden and the Tuileries Gardens) KBOla’s Café and Marlette (bordering Montmartre).

MyFrenchFilmFestival.com

Experience French Cinema Culture

Film culture is very important in Paris and fortunately this isn’t completely paused right now. The Franco-German channel Arte is streaming some great free movies and documentaries, Lost in Frenchlation, a cool organisation which screens French cinema with subtitles in English and usually with Q&A with the director, is hosting some virtual events (the next one is Sat 23 January), or MyFrenchFilmFestival.com is currently taking place (through 15 February).

Author Rowan Hisayo Buchanan and her books Harmless Like you and Starling Days

Attend Literary Events

While in-person book readings and signings are on hold, there is a wide range of virtual events taking place. The American Library in Paris has several book groups as well as regular author talks (there are somegreat events coming up – rsvp required) or consider joining the Feminist Book Club (next online event 28 January), Paris Lit Up or one of these book clubs. These excellent English bookshops are also open right now.

Kent’s School of English also holds virtual events via its weekly Creative Writing Reading Series, held Tuesdays 6-7pm (GMT). On 26 January the guest will be Rowan Hisayo Buchanan, award-winning author of Harmless Like You and Starling Days. Join via Zoom here.

Photo courtesy of Chateau de Fontainebleau

Explore Ile-de-France

If you had been hoping to visit some of the historic sites in the Ile-de-France, the greater Parisian region, there are actually various opportunities. Although the interiors are closed for now, the gardens of many castles are still opened, like Versailles and Fontainebleau (the latter is also organizing tours of the gardens in French on weekends through the end of January). There are dozens of charming historic towns that are easy to get to from central Paris, like Provins, a well-preserved medieval town which is only an hour’s train ride away.

Immerse yourself in Paris and French culture through our MA programmes in Film Studies, the Philosophy of Art, Creative Writing and Medieval and Early Modern Studies. Learn more about our programmes here.

Queer author Yelena Moskovich on the rise of the lesbian aesthetic - Vogue

Creative Writing Lecturer Yelena Moskovich publishes article in Vogue

Author Yelena Moskovich, lecturer in our Creative Writing MA Programme at the Paris School of Arts and Culture, has published a new article in Vogue Australia.

Entitled Queer Author Yelena Moskovich on the Rise of the Lesbian Aesthetic, Moskovich postulates that historically lesbian has been a style of woman, but not a woman with style. She explores this over the decades in fashion and illustrates how this is shifting as designers and stylists are re-focusing the measure of allure away from sexualised male governance; rewriting the feminine aesthetic free from the male gaze.

Read the full article at this link.

Laurent Binet – Creative Writing Reading Series

Creative Writing Reading Series

Laurent Binet 

Thursday 9 February 2017

6.30pm at Reid Hall, in the Salle de Conférence
4 rue de Chevreuse, Montparnasse, Paris 75006
All welcome.

Award-winner French author Laurent Binet will be reading from and talking about his book ‘The 7th function of language’ (2015), a story about Roland Barthes and the power of language. Binet’s novel starts with Barthes’ death, and assumes the death is an assassination. In the political and intellectual world of the time, everyone is a suspect…

“A brilliantly erudite comedy that recalls Flaubert’s Parrot and The Name of the Rose—with more than a dash of The Da Vinci CodeThe Seventh Function of Language takes us from the cafés of Saint-Germain to the corridors of Cornell University, and into the duels and orgies of the Logos Club, a secret philosophical society that dates to the Roman Empire. Binet has written both a send-up and a wildly exuberant celebration of the French intellectual tradition.” – Macmillan Publishers

Laurent Binet was born in Paris. His first novel, ‘HHhH’, was named one of the fifty best books of 2015 by The New York Times and received the Prix Goncourt du Premier Roman. He is a professor at the University of Paris III, where he lectures on French literature.