Monthly Archives: June 2021

On Confinement and Writing, a Conversation with Dr Frances Guerin

We have had an unusual year due to the effects of the pandemic across the globe. We were very fortunate to be able to carry out much of our teaching in person, in accordance with government regulations. However, the pandemic did impact Paris and its residents, an experience of which our own Dr Frances Guerin has been exploring in her writing. Dr Guerin has shared her time between Paris and Canterbury since 2006 and teaches in the Paris School of Arts and Culture’s Master’s in Film and the History and Philosophy of Art. We recently sat down with Frances, thankfully face-to-face in a Parisian café, to discuss her impressions of the pandemic and how she transposed these into a series of essays. Join in our discussion with her and read one of her essays, “The Things I Need” below.

PSAC: How did you feel when the talk of the pandemic started going around?

FG: I was actually on a student trip to Rome when talk of the pandemic started to become much more frequent. The week before, it had begun to ravage the north of Italy, but in Rome, there was sign of it. The man at the hotel in Rome dismissed it. He said one night, “Can you believe, they’ve shut things down in the north of Italy? There’s no way we could do that here. We would all go out of business.”

Then a week after we got back from Rome, the lockdown was announced in Paris. I was having lunch with friends on a Saturday afternoon, and it was like Christmas day. The streets had emptied out, many places were already closed and we were the only ones left in the restaurant. After lunch, I went to the movies, and there were only a few other people in the theatre. I was going to see a second film, but the security guard stopped me, explaining that the cinema was closing because “the virus is coming.” And that was it. It was a very strange experience because I honestly thought that it wasn’t going to come to Paris. How could Paris ever shut down?

The thing for me that was most difficult, beyond being stuck at home and having to teach on Zoom, was the policing. I had never experienced anything like it. I lived in Cold War Moscow, so I know how totalitarian states operate, but it was nothing like this. In Cold War Moscow I was a foreigner, so no one was looking at me. Plus, surveillance is much more clandestine. I had never experienced checkpoints, police standing there with their rifles, and then cruising around, stopping people randomly, demanding documents. I found it very unsettling. It was pretty intense.

What was it like for you during the various confinements?

To start off with, it was sort of a novelty. But after a week or so, that began to wear off. It became very time consuming when we had to get everything onto Zoom suddenly, overnight. I was very much caught up in all of that to begin with. During the first confinement I enjoyed the time and space; I had my own Joan Crawford festival, at home, and then a Jean-Pierre Melville festival. I re-watched all their films.

One of things that I found most difficult was that we were so regulated. The fact that we were only allowed to be one kilometre away from home, for one hour, and had to carry paperwork at all times. No one in my international global community really understood just how constricted we were. It was very isolating. I don’t think I’ll ever take for granted sitting across a table in café with another flesh and blood human being, like we’re doing right now. Because without that life became empty. And art, I missed going to galleries and museums, the BnF and the movies.

By the time we had the second and third confinement, we were sick of sitting in front of the computer, of Zoom meetings. we had to stay at home, but it was different. The government had introduced nighttime curfews, but we weren’t policed to the same extent—even though we still needed all the paperwork.

In the second confinement I didn’t watch any movies. I didn’t want to sit in front of the computer for longer than I had to. During the second confinement it was winter, so it was cold, wet and dark. So it was pretty depressing. It was difficult, and felt like it went on for a long time. That said, luckily, we were able to go back to the classroom, which made so much  difference. Having contact again with students was great.

Then by the third confinement, the vaccines had arrived. Even if vaccines hadn’t really taken off in Europe, we were watching the UK get vaccinated and their numbers dropping. This gave a sense of hope that an end was on the horizon. Still, by the end, I really yearned for museums and movies.

How did you express yourself creatively during this period?

I actually wrote two books. The first is a book on Jacqueline Humphries, a contemporary American painter. I went to New York and met her in her studio in January 2020, so luckily, just before the pandemic hit. It meant that I was able to write a first draft of the book last summer. In the winter (before the second confinement), one of her works was on display in a gallery in the Marais, and was lovely as I got to go and see it. The book will hopefully be with my publisher in about a month.

The other book is a series of essays on living with the pandemic in Paris. I’ve always been interested in imprisonment. I had this Russian thing in my blood, I learnt Russian, I lived in Moscow and I was always really interested in works of Russian literature. So many of them have a focus on imprisonment. Dostoyevsky’s Raskolnikov is, for all intents and purposes, a prisoner. So are the brothers Karamazov. Prisoners in space or in the mind. I’ve read a lot of books about incarceration, and how to stay alive. It’s all about keeping the mind and alive when the body only has a certain space in which to move. I thought a lot about books like Bernard Malmud’s The Fixer in those first weeks. Of course, we weren’t imprisoned, but I don’t think many people can imagine what confinement was like in Paris, being trapped inside these small spaces for 23 hours a day. Because I’ve always had this fascination with being incarcerated or enclosed in a small space, my writing group said, “This is your moment.” They were ones who encouraged me to write about it.

Tell us a little more about your confinement series?

There are 24 essays in the series, and the first one I wrote was this incredible experience of teaching first year students before any of us really knew what we were doing on Zoom. In one of the first classes, I had Zoom bombers. To this day, I still don’t know who they were. The story became about how the ways that we are “present” in the world, attending class and meetings for example, completely changed. It was a really fun story about this bizarre situation we were living in.

The second one I wrote was inspired by looking at the clutter in my apartment for 23 hours every day. I kept thinking about  all about the things I needed to throw away. I remembered Tim O’Brien’s story, “The Things They Carried,” about soldiers during the Vietnam War. In O’Brien’s story, “things carried” refers to the psychological, the emotional, the memories as well as they things they actually had in their packs. I was inspired to write a story about the things I need. It was, of course, very tailored to this world that we’re in. I needed an attestation (the government document proving our identity, when we left home, where we were going), I needed a light globe in my bag in case I got stopped. If the police asked me where I was going, I could say that I needed to replace the light globe and none of the shops on my block had the right kind.  Therefore, it was reasonable that I be on the street.

Were you ever controlled?

No, but that isn’t the point, I don’t think. We internalise the possibility of being stopped, and that keeps us obeying the law. It’s how government surveillance works.

When did you start the stories? And when did they end?

I wrote them for a year, from March 2020 to March 2021. From the first lockdown to the vaccine rollout. These stories reach beyond that year though because they weave in films and artworks and books, and imagine how characters in fiction and film would survive in a pandemic. Like Vermeer’s lacemaker, who I assume would have been busy making masks. The stories also weave in racial tensions, questions of death, living under curfew as a form of state control. They are also about familiar French cultural customs that bubbled to the surface. For example, one of the stories is about the senses and how people lost their smell and taste in the Coronavirus, and were prohibited from touching. We were relegated to looking, but even then, we could only look from our apartment windows. In the story, I ask what does it mean to be French and not kiss each other on the cheek when we meet? And how are we meant to be together when we can’t eat around a table? How is French life meant to go on without these age-old customs?

Thank you for sharing your thoughts with us, Frances!

You can read one of these thought-provoking essays, “The Things I Need,” below . Two others have been published online, “Still Moving” on the site Her Stry and “Grieving,” which was published in the anthology Lockdown Literature.

Now that museums are open again, Frances is back going to exhibitions. You can read about her visits on her blog, Fx Reflects.

The Things I Need – by Frances Guerin

I need to live in a big city. Surrounded by culture, holidays in the sun, long runs in the morning. I need a library to work in, vibrant streets to walk down, and stimulating people for conversation in cafes. I am convinced I need all of them. I can’t possibly live without dinner in a neighborhood bar after a night at the movies. The convenience of the shop on the corner, the bike shop across the street, the airport at the end of the metro line. What’s the point of living in Paris if London, Rome, and Berlin aren’t within easy reach?

I look up at my building as I cross the street one night in mid-March. The lights in the windows remind me of an advent calendar. My neighbors are all home, dutifully watching the President’s speech on live television. Inside my apartment, I check the news and discover that my view from the outside will be prohibited for the foreseeable future. The following day we go into confinement.

Checkpoints spring up all over the city. The police are out in full force. Under the law, we are required to carry a self-declaration, swearing we are who we say we are, our birthdate and place, our reason for being on the street. As an Australian trained in the art of dismissing authority, I find the declaration that I am out running when I am out running to be absurd.

For expats like me, raised with a relatively simple and accessible public service, French bureaucracy is labyrinthine and overwhelming. The bureaucrats can be frightening, demanding documents that are not listed as requirements. If we dare to question the request, we risk verbal humiliation. My cultural dislocation is never more marked than when I am face to face with the bureaucracy. This latest directive, however, trips over into the ridiculous.

I post an update on Facebook, entertaining my friends with the comical details of French government regulations. I laugh out loud when a colleague leaves a comment about having to complete paperwork to take her dog for a walk.

A French friend reminds us, “Without the paperwork, everyone would ignore the order.”

I can’t tell if she’s irked by or expressing solidarity with our mockery of French bureaucracy.

“We French agree, it’s a farce,” another adds.

“You can write in pencil, carry an eraser, and change what you have written if you are stopped by the police,” someone suggests.

“The prefecture posted on Twitter that pencil is not allowed,” the next warns.

“You can use the same form every day;”

“That’s definitely not allowed;”

“How do you know?”

“I read it somewhere…”

“Where?”

“I can’t remember.”

My post attracts forty-eight comments, debating the cans and can’ts of how to fill in the declarations.

The novelty of restrictions, paperwork and tweeting questions to the French police wears off quickly. I am stuck. I gaze for hours at the four walls of my room. I see the same objects over and over again. Staring at me, face to face. The objects I have collected are like people, alive, things with which I have relationships. Our relationship takes energy, making demands on my time.

I am reminded of the soldiers in Tim O’Brien’s stories of Vietnam. Of the things they carried in their packs, each is carefully chosen. The things have a physical, psychological, emotional and mnemonic value. I am like a soldier in the jungle; I keep things close, not just for their use value.

Sitting on my sofa for hours each day, I start to see all of the things I can live without. I don’t need the trinket box that my friend Vincent brought me from India. A little pink box covered with mirrored sequins, sparkling stones, and crafted beads. Inside, the coating is starting to peel off a string of fake pearls, and the clasp has been broken since my friend Cathy’s son opened and closed the box too many times. I have held onto memorabilia like this for years because I love my friends. Vincent is no exception. I might upset him if I throw away this treasure that nevertheless means nothing to me. In confinement, I need more space for me, less for my junk. Why not throw it away? He’ll never know. Perhaps I had better keep it? After all, this time will come to an end and, one day, we might be allowed to venture into the streets. Then again, the Eurostar won’t run between Paris and London for people like us. Vincent, the maître D in a fancy London restaurant isn’t coming to visit any time soon.

I come to my senses; Vincent will still be my friend when the trinket box has been moved to the underground archive for dead souls. Otherwise known as the rubbish dump.

I don’t need the birthday cards from my mother’s best friend, carefully written in a faltering script, some words gone over again and again. I wonder if the hesitation comes because she forgets how to spell the words. Perhaps it’s an indication that her hand can’t keep up with her mind, or the other way around? Either way, Gwenda certainly won’t be visiting to check that I have kept her cards. She’s 95 years old. She tells me regularly that she doesn’t need to travel again.

“I’ve already seen the world. Besides, I don’t want to pass through security,” she says in a matter-of-fact tone. “All that poking around in my bag, patting down my pants. It’s an invasion of privacy. It never used to be like that. I don’t need to go anywhere, I’ve seen the world already. I’m 95 you know. I don’t need to go through all that at my age.”

As confinement wears on, my sofa becomes increasingly comfortable. I start to agree with Gwenda. Maybe I don’t need to travel. I go jogging daily at the government prescribed hour for exercise. In the remaining 23 hours, I move from the shower to the desk, to the sofa, to the kitchen, to bed. The next day, I trace the same steps all over again. By the end of each day, I am exhausted. From one room in my apartment to the next, that’s clearly all the travel I need.

Gwenda tells me on FaceTime that she has no need for anyone to do her shopping while in confinement. “I can do it myself. I couldn’t think of anything worse than having someone pressing on my peaches and pawing my peppers. ”

“Wouldn’t it be nice to have your groceries delivered?” I ask. I recall reading that Australian confinement regulations state that over-75s are not allowed to leave their homes. I chuckle at Gwenda’s disobedience.

“Goodness, no. That’s just for old people,” she retorts.

I understand Gwenda’s logic. In confinement, the supermarket has become the most exciting outing of my week. Okay, I admit. Morning run aside, it’s the only time I leave my apartment. Like Gwenda, I am not about to give up a weekly trip to the supermarket. It’s more than a necessity. It’s an imperative. I look forward to the 350-meter walk. Across the boulevard, down a side street, around a corner. It’s the same every time. I stand obediently at the back of the line, a meter away from the person in front of me. The anticipation of my weekly shop makes me restless.

Inside the doors, it’s a different story. I don’t want to be there. Caught in the cramped aisles lined with empty shelves, I am pushed by the woman who needs the last bottle of almond milk on the shelf, the man whose arm goes over my head, reaching for the cheese with the newest use-by date. Another man coughs and everyone scowls. I take a step back, alarmed. The air is surely raining Covid droplets. I glower at the man and, almost immediately, wish I hadn’t. I despise the practice of shaming the sick. But I can’t help myself.

“Why didn’t he stay home?” I ask the woman behind me.

“Excuse me, do you mind watching my trolley? I forgot the carrots,” she responds politely.

I was expecting a different response, like, “How dare he” and a roll of the eyes, for example. One nice word to a fellow masked alien shopper, and she thinks we are sisters in arms. No, you don’t understand, the man over there coughed, I want to bark back. Instead, I nod politely and ignore her trolley. I am beginning to understand that what I need is different from what I want.

I do need the UK to keep functioning because Her Majesty’s government pays my salary. I tune into the BBC World Service for regular updates on the UK lockdown. It becomes obvious that no one needs the British Prime Minister. If he was indispensable, he wouldn’t have spent so many days and nights in hospital. Come to think of it, I can do without his advisers as well. Obviously. The British instructions for isolation are so convoluted that no one can follow them. If this, then that … yes go there, but only when … or if you have a reasonable excuse. Drive the car, but only on the condition that the distance you walk at the destination is greater than that you drove to get there. Pages of instructions successfully confuse anyone who tries to follow them. Brexit means Brexit, but Stay Home can mean anything you like. I rethink my need for the BBC; it’s no more than a mouthpiece for the government’s obfuscations.

By contrast, my next visit to the supermarket confirms that I need the man at the entrance to squirt a glob of hand sanitizer in my open palms. He’s more important than the man who is supposed to be running the United Kingdom. Apparently, I don’t need to know the scientific explanations for the R factor, the curve exponents, the percentage of infections per capita. But I do need to know that the apples I touch, and don’t buy, will be clean for the next anonymous shopper.

My shopping basket brushes the leg of a woman in a mask. Her muffled voice is filled with heated emotion, sucking the mask to her mouth to create a concavity in the fabric. I don’t understand why she is upset. I want to ask her to remove the mask, but I don’t need to know what she is saying. I ignore her and go in search of the charcuterie.

It’s day fourteen, and I am running low on coffee beans. For over a decade, I have bought coffee at a small local store. I stop in the coffee aisle at the supermarket and stare at the array of vacuum-packed home brand beans. What do I do? I turn the question over in my mind. My coffee shop won’t be open, so maybe I should buy it here? But then, I can’t drink supermarket coffee. It won’t be the same, it won’t wake me up, it won’t, it won’t, I can’t, I don’t want to. My thoughts fall into a spiral of despair in the coffee aisle. A child pulls the packets from the bottom shelf. Time to leave. I don’t need the coffee.

Two days later, I happen to pass the coffee shop during my one hour of government-sanctioned exercise. The door is ajar, and I see the man behind the counter, bent over huge hessian bags filled with coffee beans. I feel my heart expand, my mood lift, I sense a smile light up my face. I breathe relief. My sensory receptors are aroused then invigorated by the rich, seductive smell of freshly ground coffee. I approach the counter, cautiously. Inside the small shop it isn’t possible to stand at the government-dictated distance.

“I didn’t think you would be here,” I gush with excitement.

“We are classified an épicerie,” he responds nonchalantly. The man starts to fill a packet with my regular roast. “One kilo? Ground for a French Press?” He asks in a voice that supposes nothing has changed since the last time I saw him.

“Yes, yes. Have you been busy?” I ask. I have so many questions, my heart starts racing.

This is the first conversation I have had with a real person in sixteen days. Not counting the perfunctory exchanges at the supermarket. On day one of confinement, my upstairs neighbour texted to say she was sick. My interactions with her have become reduced to a handful of blank declarations on my doorstep every few days. Some evenings her partner and I yell a few pleasantries from our windows at 8pm, in between applause for the frontline workers.

I might want coffee, but it’s not my first need. I can live without coffee. Flesh and blood contact with another human being is a basic necessity.

“I hate the isolation,” I confess to the man at the coffee shop. This banal conversation engages every part of me as I realize my discomfort out loud for the first time. “The restrictions are ridiculous,” I moan.

“You are not the only one,” he responds with a smile. He pours the coffee beans into the grinder.

“Really?”

“Ah, but of course. Everyone is frustrated. And the police with their petty exercise of power, giving out fines at every turn.”

“Did others tell you that?”

“Oh, of course, what do you expect? We all hate it.”

I walk home with a spring in my step, swinging the bag of coffee with delight. Our short conversation keeps me going for hours, knowing that there are others who think like me. I feel so replete having had a real conversation, with a real person, not just an image on a screen.

I need my computer. I wish I didn’t. To be connected, I must have a screen between me and the world, my ears hidden under headphones. I raise my virtual hand in a request to speak. It all seems like a silly science fiction movie. This isn’t funny, I remind myself. I think of all the people who don’t have a computer and an internet connection, let alone an apartment.

I think of the Vietnam soldiers in O’Brien’s story, carrying their life on their back, and those of their ancestors in their veins. I think of the weight of munitions belts, the memories that keep fantasies alive, and the ghosts of dead comrades that crushed their ability to hope. The things they carried to kill or to keep them alive. Whichever was needed most.

Confinement in Paris is a privilege. My worries are a luxury. Stop complaining.

I turn my thoughts to the bright side of my new life on Zoom. I enjoy seeing inside my colleagues’ apartments, how they live, little granules of information to tell me who they really are. It doesn’t occur to me that they, like me, might have staged their apartments for the camera.

My colleagues tell me that the world is going to change, and I won’t be able to have dinner dates any time soon.

“You won’t ever travel to Italy again,” warns a grumpy older colleague.

I will be stuck here in front of the computer for the rest of my life. I panic. My thoughts get in the way, reminding me that I need a bigger apartment, a better job, one more pair of shoes, and the sweater I tried on while wasting time, waiting for my train at St. Pancras in January. I am convinced that I need more money, more prestige, more admiration. My mind races with all of the things I need and the people I must impress if I want eternal happiness. Here in front of the computer screen.

A siren echoes outside my window as an ambulance speeds down the boulevard. It reminds me that the thoughts cluttering my head can go in the trash. They belong with the old birthday cards and the pink trinket box. No one else needs to know they ever existed. I certainly don’t need them.

I wake up to a WhatsApp from a dear friend in New York “Darling, how are you getting on in Paris?”

“We are in total confinement. You?”

He sends me a selfie with his girlfriend in the middle of nature, followed by a message, “Social distancing in New York.” He adds a winking emoji.

I feel the rage rise inside of me. It’s not fair. I am only allowed out for one hour a day, and if I don’t have paperwork, I will be fined. At worst, I will be put in jail. I definitely don’t need to be communicating with my New York friends.

I need to find a way out of Paris. Take me away from this isolation. Fantasy will do.

Day twenty-one and the man at the door of the supermarket is still there holding the bottle of hand sanitizer. The coffee man shuffles behind the counter at the same pace, in or out of confinement. Zoom is starting to irritate me, but the computer remains my doorway to the world. I have a connection. That’s all that matters.

It’s the beginning of the second month in confinement, and I am learning to reformulate my wants and needs. I need air, water, food, a bed to sleep in, a roof over my head, a computer and a bag for my groceries. In my bag, there’s a dead light bulb, a spare pair of glasses, and a blank declaration form, just in case. I’m always hoping to find a replacement globe for the unusual American lamp in my living room that was given to me by a friend when she left Paris. I obviously don’t need to turn the lamp on because the globe has been dead since confinement began, and the supermarket doesn’t carry the particular variety. I also keep a pen in my bag. Heaven forbid that I get caught in the street beyond my one permitted hour, my one permitted kilometer. I remain vigilant. The thought of the police stopping me, checking my papers wartime-style, mathematically determining that my time has expired or I have breached the limit of acceptable distance from home. In the remote past of February, a pen was essential for freedom, inspiration and jotting down ideas in my notebook. Now, I need the pen more than ever, but for reasons I could never have imagined. In this brave new world, a pen is for changing the time, or filling in a new form if caught by the police.

I need the garbage collected. I think back to the film, Contagion in which social disorder and eventual anarchy sweep through the streets of America. It all begins when the garbage spills out onto the streets.

Bless that man who comes on his motorbike every Tuesday and Friday to put the bins outside, returning two hours later when they have been emptied. No one in my building speaks to him, perhaps because they can’t understand his accent. I said hello to him a few years ago, and he looked at me through the visor of his helmet as if I was from outer space. I don’t dare try again. I remain silently grateful that he fulfils one of my most important needs.

Routine is essential. I need to run every day, keeping my mind as well as my body from falling into disrepair. I don’t need and I don’t like the woman who yells at me from the other side of the street, behind a mask. I never understand what they are saying when a mask is involved. A man walks towards me, noticing the puzzled look on my face, laughing. He explains that the woman doesn’t want me out running, despite the fact that I am following the law. It is 9.30am, the shops aren’t yet open, and she is yelling at me. I am tempted to turn around and scream at her in my smartest French. It’s what she deserves.

“Go take your anger out on smokers, car drivers, and all the others who pollute the air you breathe.” I practice my retort in my head, making sure to get the grammar correct. I say nothing. I keep running.

It turns out that the things I need are not the same as the things that clutter my life. I discover that it’s not the objects that I stalk on the internet, like books, pens, inks and bikes that I need to keep me going. I need new running shoes, but old ones will do. I need books, but I have enough for years in confinement. I thought I couldn’t live without nail varnish, that dress I’ve been eyeing in the shop window across the street, and Wednesday nights’ new releases at the cinema. Apparently, I need none of these. Who would have thought that the British Prime Minister, dinners with friends, and proximity to the train station would no longer matter.

What will the world look like when this crisis is over? Will it ever be over? I have no idea. What I do know is that whatever happens, I need to trust. I need to know that all will be okay. I also need a regular reminder that I can’t plan for the end. That doesn’t stop me from trying. When will it end? What will the end look like? Who will I be when it’s over? How will I get there? Enough.

Bourse de Commerce Paris

Five Cool Contemporary Art Centres in Paris

Private art galleries, especially those in the Upper Marais, are a great place to see contemporary art in Paris. However, since the turn of the 21st century, Paris has seen an influx in venues dedicated to art made by current artists. These are often in repurposed historic buildings or structures designed by top contemporary architects, which adds another fascinating level to your visit. Discover our favorite contemporary art venues below.

Bourse de Commerce Paris

Bourse de Commerce (and top photo)

Bourse de Commerce

Once used for storing grain at Les Halles, Paris’s former central food market, and then the grain stock exchange, the former Bourse de Commerce reopened in June 2021 as the home of French Industrialist Francois Pinault’s collection of modern and contemporary art. The building was reinvented by Japanese architect Tadao Ando who added a 10-metre-high concrete cylinder inside the main exhibition hall, allowing visitors to better appreciate the building’s glass dome and historic frescoes. The galleries surrounding it feature revolving thematic presentations of art from the 1960s to today.

Palais de Tokyo Paris

Photo Credit: Palais de Tokyo

Palais de Tokyo

First built for the International Exhibition of Arts and Technology of 1937, the west wing of this Art Deco building on the Seine has housed France’s largest museum focused on temporary exhibitions of contemporary art since 2002. Vast industrial style exhibit halls allow for large scale installations which often involve sound, video or other modern technology. Check their agenda as they sometimes host DJ nights and other events.

Photo Credit: Fondation Louis Vuitton

Fondation Louis Vuitton

Designed by star architect Frank Gehry, this curvaceous glass building is hidden in the Bois de Boulogne woods in western Paris. It hosts temporary exhibits, both featuring the works of the Louis Vuitton fashion house collection, as well as top traveling international art exhibits, usually on work from the late 19th century to the present. Read more on the Foundation’s architecture in our post on the best contemporary architecture in Paris.

Fondation Cartier

Photo Credit: Fondation Cartier

Fondation Cartier

Original located in the suburbs of Paris, the Fondation Cartier received a new home in the 14th arrondissement, not far from our Paris School, in 1994. The sleek glass and steel building was designed by leading French architect Jean Nouvel, who also designed the Institut du Monde Arabe, the Musée du Quai Branly and the new Philharmonie (also included in our contemporary architecture article). Part offices, part exhibition space and with a notable bookshop, the Foundation puts on significant temporary art exhibitions, usually of living international art stars like Damien Hirst or Junya Ishigami.

Photo Credit: Fluctuart

Fluctuart

Occupying a modern glass barge moored in the Seine near the Musée d’Orsay is this art space dedicated to street art. There are rooms displaying the centre’s permanent collection and then temporary exhibits every few months. Ponder the works afterwards at the barge’s cool terrace café overlooking the river. Learn more about street art in our article on top street artists to spot around Paris.

Looking for more art explorations in Paris?

Our commitment to teaching during the pandemic: Update for September 2021

Welcome to Paris!

As we move into the summer months, we look forward to welcoming students in September and to a new academic year with face-to-face teaching in one of the world’s richest cultural capitals, Paris.

The global pandemic has made clear just how important creative practices and engagement, artistic values and critical thinking are. In challenging times, we need skills and ideas for effective solutions to world problems and the Paris School of Arts and Culture has a rich range of programmes to elevate our contributions to, and experience of, the new worlds we face.

Covid-19 has changed our worlds, but it has also meant we have found new safe and flexible ways to live. Our aim is always to teach in-person where possible and our safety measures make this possible.

We believe in the importance of delivering our educational experience in-person because it builds a community of learners, but this is always supported by virtual supports and we use the richness of digital input in a changing and networked world to enhance the in-person and when necessary. Whether in-person or online, our expertise remains one to transform your future and to create new opportunities.

Our unique size and context allow us to deliver as much in-person teaching as possible, with new rules and guidance for our Covid-19 safety. It is our aim to offer safe in-person teaching, dynamic online interaction and allowing you to make the most of the opportunities Paris has to offer in a world adapting to new times.

The health and safety of our students and staff is the highest priority. We follow University of Kent and all French government regulations to ensure the Paris School of Arts and Culture is safe; we have put in place new health and safety measures to ensure we can support our educational vision.

The world is now more adapted to Covid-19 measures and before returning or arriving it is important you are aware of our Covid Code of Conduct and follow its guidance, which makes our education possible. We will provide an additional briefing on the COVID-19 Code of Conduct to new students as part of Welcome Week beginning 20 September 2021.

The world is different, but the academic work, the opportunities for learning and the intellectual engagements will be as deep and as rich as our international reputation for scholarship and teaching has always been over the years. We have worked hard to maintain the close-knit Paris School community and we are delighted with the spirit that students have approached this new world – with enthusiasm to study, resilience in adjusting and engaging in hard-work to build new careers.

We look forward to you joining us to build your new worlds of possibilities, living safely, exploring new ideas and finding solutions to the challenges.

I look forward to welcoming you all to the University of Kent Paris School.

Jeremy Carrette
Dean for Europe

Graduate Profile: Writer Darren Riding

In the latest edition of our Alumni Spotlight series we touch base with Darren Riding, an alumnus of our former American Literature Master’s Programme in Paris. Since graduating from our Paris School of Arts and Culture (PSAC), Darren Riding has worked as a lecturer in Asia and is currently working as a A freelance writer in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Discover what brought Darren to our Paris School and his impressions of our programmes in this interview.

Where are you from and what originally brought you to Paris?

I am from Westmeath in the Irish midlands. It’s an extremely rural part of the country and I read a lot when I was young. I’ve always been interested in American literature and the fact that Kent had an MA course split between Canterbury and Paris was very appealing. For me, the sense of place was as attractive as the course content. Paris is obviously one of the most historically cultural cities in the world so it was exciting to imagine spending some time there.

What attracted you most about studying at PSAC?

The most attractive part of studying there was the opportunity to be part of a unique literary community. As the class sizes were small, we had an opportunity to bond with each other that simply isn’t possible on a regular university campus. Meanwhile, being in Paris is incredible for students of literature because of the history related to the Lost Generation, Shakespeare and Co. Great Irish writers like Samuel Beckett and James Joyce wrote some of the greatest works of the twentieth century there. As all of my course modules were influenced by the city, it made sense to immerse myself in it. Also, I have a shameless weakness for patisseries.

What were some of the highlights of your experience?

There were guest lectures in the evenings with drinks receptions afterward. In Canterbury it was easy to overlook these type of events but in Paris we were all invested in them and tried to make the most of our experience. We got to meet working artists of all kinds and spend time in their company outside of the normal confines of the classroom. The postgrad festival was also a lot of fun. I helped to organise it and once we got past the stressful parts, it went really well. I’d really love to go back in the future and attend one again – without any responsibilities!

What are you currently doing and how did that opportunity come about?

At the moment I am living in Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam as a freelance writer. I taught English in a university when I first came here but changed to writing full-time. It was a chance to live outside of Europe and experience more of the world, while being able to sustain the career I wanted.

Do you think that your studies at PSAC helped with your career prospects?

Generally speaking having an MA in literature has improved my writing. The fact that I studied in Paris is also an interesting talking point on a CV. I only spent a semester in Paris but I gained some skills I didn’t expect when we were preparing conferences and events. It is also such a multinational environment so I made connections from all over the world, many of whom I’m still in touch with today.

Would you recommend PSAC to potential students and if so what would you tell them?

I would definitely recommend PSAC to potential students because it was such an enjoyable experience for me. As well as being in Paris, you it’s such a unique opportunity to get to know people – from fellow students to lecturers and coordinators like Peter and Frank. This really added to the experience because it felt like faculty members knew who you were and made you feel part of the Reid Hall community. If you are not from the UK I would also consider spending a semester in Canterbury as I did, because it is a gorgeous city.

Merci beaucoup Darren!

Musee-Gustav-Moreau-Paris

Historic Art Studios You Can Visit in Paris

Many artists have lived and worked in Paris over the centuries. We are fortunate enough to have the legacy of some preserved at their former art studios which have been transformed into museums. From early 19th century romanticism to modern sculpture, here are our top picks of historic art studios you can visit in Paris.

Musée Délacroix

Tucked away on a charming square in the Saint Germain neighborhood is the former studio and residence of Eugene Délacroix. One of the most important painters of the early 19th century Romantic movement, Délacroix is best known for his dramatic painting Liberty Leading the People (1830), hanging at the Louvre. The artist moved here in 1857 to be closer to the Saint-Sulpice church, where he’d been commissioned to produce several large murals. Facing a verdant courtyard and with large windows, he lived in this studio-apartment until his death in 1863 and it was converted into a museum in 1932.

Musee Gustav Moreau 2

Musée Gustav Moreau (and top photo)

Musée Gustave Moreau

The former home and studio of symbolist artist Gustav Moreau is set in an elegant mansion in the 9th district. The first section takes you through his former living quarters, however, the real highlight is his vast studio area, spread over two floors with towering ceilings and commissioned by the artist in the view of creating a museum in the building upon his death. Moreau passed away in 1898 and the venue opened as a museum in 1903. In addition to admiring the dozens of paintings of nymphs and mythological gods and goddesses, be sure to peer into the drawers and cabinets, filled with drawings, prints and more paintings.

Musée de Montmartre

Musée de Montmartre

Musée de Montmartre

This collection of buildings, formerly the art studio of Renoir, Degas, Suzanne Valadon and Maurice Utrillo, is now a museum on the history of this artistic neighborhood of Paris. The museum has displays on the history of the area in one building and temporary exhibits in another section, but the interest for art fans is the front wing where there is the reconstructed art studio of the last major artists who used the space: Suzanne Valadon and her son Maurice Utrillo. There is also a charming café in the garden, where you can also see what they consider as the swing depicted in Renoir’s famous painting  La Balançoire.

Musee-Zadkine-vue-aerienne-jardin-630x405-C-OTCP-Didier-Messina

Musée Zadkine Photo: Paris Info

Musée Zadkine

Located on the edge of the Luxembourg Gardens, and only a few blocks away from our Paris School, is the former studio of artist Ossip Zadkine. The Russian-born cubist sculptor spent much of his career living in Paris and working at his Montparnasse studio. Visiting it provides insight into what the area was early to mid 20th century, when it the artistic and literary centre of the city. In addition to the studio, you can contemplate more works in the museum’s tranquil garden. As it is one of the museums of the City of Paris, admission is free, extra incentive to visit!

Musée Bourdelle

Another studio of the Montparnasse area, the sculptor Antoine Bourdelle worked in this space from 1885 to 1929. An excellent example of a turn of the 20th century Parisian artist studio, the museum unfolds through a series of buildings and peaceful courtyards. Vast rooms filled with colossal sculptures are contrasted with his more intimate studio spaces. The museum also hosts temporary exhibits, so be sure to check the programme in advance.

Brancusi Studio, Groume / Flickr

Brancusi Studio

Many visitors to the Centre Pompidou are not aware that there is a famous art studio located at its base and which is annex of the museum. Although not at its original location, this is a loyal reconstruction of artist Constantin Brancusi’s Montparnasse studio, the contents of which he bequeathed to the French state in 1956. Living and working in Paris from 1904 until his death in 1957, the Romanian artist gradually expanded upon his studio on the Impasse Ronsin in the 15th arrondissement which were faithfully recreated after the artist’s death, first at the Palais de Tokyo then here when the Modern Art Museum was created in the 1970s.

Other Studio or Artist Homes:

Musée Jean-Jacques Henner – although it isn’t in its original location either, this charming museum in the 17th arrondissement was once the studio-home of Guillaume Dubufe and was transformed into a museum-studio in honor of painter Jean-Jacques Henner, both artists prominent painters in France during the second half of the 19th century.

Fondation Giacometti – also not in its original location and not an exact reconstruction, this center presents exhibitions, research and pedagogy around the Swiss artist Alberto Giacometti. The Institute is found in the Montparnasse neighbourhood not far from where Giacometti lived and worked and in the former studio of artist and interior designer Paul Follot.

Carry on discovering art in Paris thanks to these other thematic articles on our blog:

Interested in studying art in Paris? Consider pursuing our Master’s in the history and philosophy of art taught in English at our Paris School of Arts and Culture.

France Reopens Borders and Eases Other Covid-19 Restrictions

From 9 June, 2021 France will enter Phase 3 of its easing of Covid-19 restrictions. This also includes the opening of its borders with certain conditions. Discover the new protocols and how it relates to those currently in Paris and those planning on traveling to France.

Le-Vrai-Paris-cafe-Montmartre

Le Vrai Paris café in Montmartre

European and International Borders Reopening

As announced in late April, France will be open to EU and other nationalities as of 9 June. This is based a colour system in which requirements for entry vary on your country of departure. This system includes three colour groups: Red, Orange, and Green. The Green group includes EU residents, who will no longer need a “compelling reason” to enter France, and only non-vaccinated visitors will have to provide a recent negative antigen or PCR test. The other countries in the Green category include Australia, South Korea, Israel, Japan, Lebanon, New Zealand and Singapore.

The Orange group includes North Americans who can enter with proof of being fully vaccinated (with proof of your vaccination). Those who are not, must have a compelling reason to enter, plus undergo an obligatory quarantine of 7 days and a PCR test after arrival.

For UK nationals, those who are fully vaccinated will need to have proof of a negative PCR test within 72 hours of departure, or an antigen test within 48 hours of departure. However, you will not need to justify an essential reason for travel or to self-isolate on arrival. Those who are not fully vaccinated will only be able to enter France for compelling reasons. However, testing requirements have changed. Travelers in this category will be able to take a PCR test within 72 hours of departure, or an antigen test within 48 hours of departure. More information on current travel requirements is available on the UK government website here.

European countries are aiming to coordinate on a EU “health pass” which will hopefully be announced by 1 July.

Hotel de la Marine

Photo: Hotel de la Marine, opening on 12 June

Déconfinement Phase 3: 9 June Further Reopening Conditions

As of 9 June the curfew in France goes up to 11 pm. Restaurants will also be allowed to have diners indoors (with certain capacity limits and other restrictions). Museums can also accept up to 65% capacity, although advance booking is now required at many venues, like the beautiful Hotel de la Marine which will be opening to the public on 12 June.

Visitors under 26 and holders of a student card can obtain free entrance to most museums in Paris. For smaller museums you merely need to present your ID (student and national ID) upon entering or but for larger museums, like the Louvre, you need to book in advance a free student ticket in advance.

students- Musée-dOrsay

PSAC students returning to the Musée d’Orsay

Our Top Suggestions for your Cultural Outings

Gain some inspiration for your cultural outings via these articles from our blog:

You can peruse other recent articles here.

The Menteur 2021

Launch of The Menteur 2021

We are very pleased to announce the upcoming release of the latest edition of The Menteur, our literary and arts magazine. Founded in 2012, the magazine is edited and produced annually by postgraduate students at the University of Kent’s Paris School of Arts and Culture.

During these challenging times, we have seen art, literature, music, and drama come to life in unexpected ways and into our lives via new channels. For many over the last year, virtual gallery tours, performances, and live readings have offered a sanctuary, providing either a moment of enjoyable solitude, or the ability to share an experience with others.

It therefore seemed fitting that this year’s edition of Le Menteur would come to encompass this culturally shifting landscape. For our theme, Art Re-wired, we asked our contributors to reflect on how the nature of connection and collaboration, along with our sources of inspiration, have been redirected after being so abruptly uprooted when social contact went out the window.

In the this year’s edition you will find stories that highlight the absurdity and the joys of the human condition. Peaks of isolation are correspondingly met with consolation, and the deepest sorrows serve to heighten the eventual celebrations. Our theme, Art Rewired, features work that engages or challenges ideas/dichotomies of solitude and interconnectivity felt during the pandemic. How is a world pushing against social contact rewiring our definition of connection and collaboration? The virtual launch will reveal the magazine for the first time and include performances of some of the pieces in this year’s edition.

Sneak peek of ‘Abicere’ – Rebecca Rayner

The Menteur Launch

The Menteur‘s launch will be taking place on Saturday, 5 June, 2021 at 7 pm (CET – Paris Time) and is the closing event of our annual Postgraduate Festival taking place from 1-5 June (see more about the other events in the festival here). The virtual launch will reveal the magazine for the first time and include performances of some of the pieces in this year’s edition. Please see the programme overview below and you can join at this link.

A digital version of the magazine is also now available on Issu here.

Sneak peek of  ‘The Bigger Picture’ – Wendy Kirkwood

The Menteur Launch Programme

  • Introduction by Professor Frances Guerin
  • Menteur Team Q+A
  • A Touch of Pink by the group Realma with introduction by its singer/songwriter Ariadna
  • Lockdown, Disability, and Creativity – an Interview with Ayesha Chouglay conducted by Jessica Rose.
  • Inhale/Exhale – film screening with Introduction by filmmaker Michèle Saint Michel
  • Renga – video poem with an introduction by poet David Dykes
  • Reading by poet Allison Wittenberg

Join via Zoom here. We are looking forward to seeing you there!

Sarah Kathryn Cleaver

Graduate Profile: Film Professional Sarah Kathryn Cleaver

In the latest in our Alumni Spotlight series we connect with Sarah Kathryn Cleaver, an alumna of our Film Master’s Programme in Paris. Since graduating from our Paris School of Arts and Culture (PSAC), she has done research and writing for film projects and launched the Zodiac Film Club in London. Read about Sarah’s experience studying at PSAC and her time in Paris in our interview with her below.

Where are you from and what originally brought you to Paris? 

I’m from London (born in Essex) and I’d wanted to spend some time living in Paris since I could remember. I began working straight after my BA, and after about five years I started feeling a bit lost, and knew I wanted to spend some time writing and researching and take a break from the hustle. I had a couple of ideas I thought I could turn into a thesis, and started looking around for a Master’s degree.  

What attracted you most about studying at PSAC?   

Of course it was the ‘living in Paris’ bit, but I’m really glad I got to experience learning in Kent’s film department as well. I did one semester commuting into Kent (very early morning trains) and then two in Paris. My best friend had moved to Paris a couple of years before, so I was excited to join her for a bit. I also just really needed a change, since I’d grown up, studied and worked in London.

What were some of the highlights of your experience? 

My favourite place on earth is The American Library in Paris, I’d go there every weekend and read crime novels to relax. I loved Paris’ cinema culture, it’s so affordable and they show an incredible range of films. I met some really clever and interesting people who I’m terrible at keeping in contact with, but when we do see each other it’s like no time has passed. I think it was really good for me to lead a small life; a few friends, classes, books, the cinema, living alone in the tiniest flat I’ve ever seen. It taught me a lot about how much (or how little) I need to be happy. 

What are you currently doing and how did that opportunity come about? 

A lot of things. Primarily I write and research. When I got back to London, I applied for a job as an image and editorial researcher on a book about London’s 100 Club and got it, so for months I was finding and interviewing people and trying to get them to send me photographs of them in the club in the 80s. That’s led to a few other research and writing jobs. I also have some copywriting jobs for brands and websites which I’ve found I like a lot. Real writing is 90% hideous and 10% satisfying, but copywriting is like word maths; there’s usually a correct answer and it’s pretty difficult to take it personally. I do write properly sometimes, mostly about film. I wish I did more but I’m a bit of a procrastinator when it comes to pitching. 

The other thing I did when I came home was start a film club with a friend. It was very much inspired by cinema culture in Paris–the way I saw a ton of films I would never have otherwise watched. We thought it would just be us and our friends at first, but we grew quite an audience and it led to writing jobs and other interesting opportunities. I’m not totally sure what this is going to be yet but I’d like to grow this more. Dr Tamar Jeffers McDonald at the Kent Campus runs this amazing conference called Gothic Feminism that I look forward to attending again if it continues post-Covid, but it was my first time there that made me realise that what I’m passionate about is delivering an academic approach to a subject in an accessible way to people who aren’t academics. That’s what Zodiac is about, that and very girly, trashy films. And overall I think PSAC encourages that combination of academia and real life.

Do you think that your studies at PSAC helped with your career prospects? 

I think careers and creative development are not necessarily the same thing. This might be a disappointing answer but I’m not sure young people have a ton of control over their career prospects at this particular moment in time, and that’s something we should try not to let damage our view of ourselves. I think everything I’ve learned about work I’ve learned from working. What’s great about PSAC is that it’s really valuable time outside of those kinds of parameters. If you want to do something creative, having something that you’re really interested in and honing your ability to explore and communicate it tends to lead to things in life, whether that’s like minded people or interesting work. That’s what I think studying at PSAC develops. Unless of course you want to continue in academia, and then I can’t imagine anywhere nicer to do that.

Would you recommend PSAC to potential students and if so what would you tell them?

I definitely would. I would tell them laundrettes are the best place to practice French, to eat as many chouquettes as possible because you’ll miss them when you leave, that nannying is a really difficult job but a good way to build character. And to just enjoy themselves.

Merci beaucoup Sarah!

Connect with Sarah here:

@sarahkcleaver

@zodiacfilmclub