Category Archives: Paris Activities

The Best Historic Art House Cinemas in Paris

Since the first ever public film screening in 1895, Parisians have been big cinéphiles, or film buffs. The city’s phenomenal film culture is definitely a top reason to study film in Paris. One of the best ways of experiencing this is by attending screenings at one of the Paris’s historic cinemas. The following movie theatres have both excellent screening agendas and fascinating histories.

Le Champo. Photo LPLT / CC

Le Champo

Opened in 1938, this is one of the leading movie theatres in the Latin Quarter, where many of the art house cinemas in Paris are located. Down the street from the Sorbonne, it’s popular with students of the University of Paris and was an important cinema for La Nouvelle Vague. In fact, François Truffaut deemed it his “headquarters” and by Claude Chabrol considered it as his “second university”. In the early 2000s, with worries that the cinema might close down, a group of cinema professionals, including Cédric Klapisch and Isabelle Huppert, succeeded in saving the cinema and getting it classified as a national monument.

Cinéma du Panthéon

Established in 1907, this is the oldest movie theatre in the city. In 1929 it was bought by Pierre Braunberger, the producer who is credited for discovering La Nouvelle Vague greats such as Jean-Luc Godard, Alain Resnais and Jean-Pierre Melville. As such, the cinema became a showcase for the French New Wave and was one of the first French cinemas to screen foreign films in their original language. In 2006 the theatre saw a modern touch with the addition of a stylish “salon” co-designed by actress Catherine Deneuve.

Studio 28. Photo: Tatvam / CC

Le Studio 28

Considered by Jean Cocteau as “the cinema of masterpieces, the masterpiece of cinemas”, this eclectic art house cinema is tucked away on a small street in Montmartre. It was inaugurated in 1928 with a screening of Abel Gance’s Napoléon and quickly became popular with the avant-garde artists and filmmakers of the time. It’s lobby even once included artwork by Dali, Joan Miro, Max Ernst, Man Ray, and Pierre Tanguy. In November 1930, Luis Bunuel and Salvador Dali’s film L’Age d’Or premiered at the theatre. The film, which aimed to question the Roman Catholic Church’s strict policies on sexuality, caused such an uproar that the film was banned within a week and the cinema was ransacked by right-wing rioters. The movie theatre managed to persist through those turbulent times and has carried on with its innovative programming. Even if you haven’t been to the cinema yet, you might have already since it as it was featured in Jean-Pierre Jeunet’s 2001 film Amélie.

Le Louxor

This beautiful Art Deco cinema has had many lives since opening in 1921. As you might guess by its name, it features an Egyptian inspired façade, with gilded mosaics, and it had a Pharaonic-sized screening at 1,195 seats, making it one of the largest in Paris at the time (it has since been reduced). Despite its façade and roof being classified as national monuments in the early 1970s, cinema-going was then beginning to wane in Paris. This led to the building being transformed into the biggest gay nightclub in the city before being abandoned for a decade. It was fortunately bought by the city of Paris in 2003, leading to its restoration and reopening in 2013. Before or after your film, grab a drink at its bar which has a terrace with lovely views of Montmartre.

Lucernaire

Although this multifunction theatre and cinema isn’t as old as some of the others on the list, it still holds its place in the Parisian art house scene. Opened in 1969, the Montparnasse venue is comprised of three theatres, three screening rooms, a bookshop, art gallery, restaurant and bar. Whether it’s the art on display or the films being screened, the establishment aims to foster new talents, creativity and interconnectivity between art forms. What’s more, it’s conveniently located down the street from our Paris School.

Studio Galande. Photo: LPLT / CC

Studio Galande

Another Latin Quarter film institution, this small theatre has occupied a cellar near Notre Dame since 1973. Although it has a diverse programme of art house films from all around the globe, it is best known for its twice-weekly screenings of The Rocky Horror Picture Show. Held every Friday and Saturday night at 10 pm, the Studio Galande is the only European movie theatre to still have regular screenings of Jim Sharman’s cult musical comedy. The lively screenings are accompanied by local costumed performers who lead the audience in sing-alongs and dancing.

Reflet Médicis

Originally a theatre for dramatic productions, since 1964 this Latin Quarter cinema has become one of Paris leading and most active independent film venues. In addition to an varied agenda of art house films of both past and present, the cinema hosts regular retrospectives, debates and conferences. Today it is now part of the Dulac Cinémas, a small group of art house cinemas striving to keep this tradition alive.

Interesting in immersing yourself in Film in Paris? Consider pursuing your knowledge during the one-year Film Master’s degree programme offer by our Paris School of Arts and Culture.

France to Reopen Museums, Cinemas and Theatres on 19 May 2021

After a six month closure, we are extremely pleased that cultural venues will be reopening in France as of 19 May 2021. All museums, art galleries, theatres and cinemas may reopen, under certain conditions. Here is a summary of the new protocols and how it relates to visitors.

Déconfinement Phase 2: 19 May Reopening Conditions

As of 19 May the nation-wide curfew in France will be pushed back to 9pm. Therefore, you will have more time to be able to visit cultural sites and take in movie screenings in person.

All sites can only reopen with a reinforced sanitary protocol. As a general rule, the reopening of sites does not depend on the size of the facility, however, it is capped at 800 people at one time inside and a 1,000 outside (for example, the interior of the Chateau de Versailles and the gardens). However, it also stipulates that there should 8 m2 per visitor until 9 June when the curfew goes up to 11 pm and the space will be 4 m2. Therefore, sites must factor this in when calculating the exact number of people inside the site at one time.

Other conditions include a one one circulation system (similar to what was enforced after last year’s lockdown), hand sanitiser available at the entrance and a preference to booking e-tickets in advance (as is already the case at the Louvre).

Gradual Reopening of Museums & Cultural Sites

Just because sites are allowed to reopen on 19 May, it doesn’t mean that all museums and monuments will be reopening on that exact date. For example, the doors of the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay the Centre Pompidou, the Musée de l’Orangerie and the Chateau de Versailles will be reopening on the 19th, but some sites are waiting until the weekend.

The Palais de Tokyo, Europe’s largest contemporary art centre, will be reopening on Saturday 22 May with an exhibit by performance artist Anne Imhof entitled Natures Mortes (Still Lives). Since the building is quite large, they will be respecting the maximum of 800 visitors at a time.

The highly anticipated opening of the Pinault Collection at the Bourse to Commerce will also take place on 22 May. After several years of extensive renovations, the former grain hall of the Paris central food market has been converted into a new venue of collection of contemporary art. For other venues, it’s advised to check their websites beforehand so you do not arrive to find the site closed.

Free Access for Students

Holders of a student card can obtain free entrance to most museums in Paris. For smaller museums you merely need to present your ID (student and national ID) upon entering or but for larger museums, like the Louvre, you need to book in advance a free student ticket in advance.

At time of publication, the Louvre ticket booking system was not yet activated, however, this is the link (select your date, then the ticket options will come up, you will need to proceed to the check out, but will not be charged for your ticket). The Orsay reservation system is working via this link. Select free of charge reservation, then select “add to cart”, then “I book”, skip the audioguide page by clicking then “I book”, then you’ll have the date and time option. For the Centre Pompidou, follow this link and select a free ticket for a youth or an art/conservatoire student.

Reflet Médicis / Facebook

Movie Theatres

The date of this new déconfinement stage falls on a Wednesday, the traditional day of the week when new films are released. As there has been a backlog of films to be released, there have have been some issues over which ones will come out first. However, film fans should have an exciting few weeks of releases. To help you decide which cinemas to go to in the city, check out our article on the Best Historic Art House Cinemas in Paris.

Enjoy this return to culture and stay safe!

Napoleon’s Paris, Eight Sites Linked to the Emperor

This year France will celebrate the bicentennial of the Emperor’s death, in exile on the Island of Saint Helena on 5 May 1821, with a range of exhibits and events. Although he is a controversial figure for more reasons than one, it is undeniable that Napoléon Bonaparte altered the course of French history and the country as a whole. Napoléon might have spent much of his 15 years in power trying to conquer Europe, however, he did leave his mark on the capital. This was often in the form of grand monuments to himself and his military victories, nevertheless, the city does owe a number of its greatest sites to the Emperor. Here is selection of initiatives and other sites connected to Napoléon in Paris.

L’Ecole Militaire. Photo: Jebulon / CC

L’Ecole Militaire

After initial studies at the military academy of Brienne, Bonaparte came to Paris in October 1784, at the age of 15, to continue his training at the Ecole Militaire. After a year, he left the academy as a second lieutenant in the La Fère artillery regiment. His military career continued to advance through the early years of the Revolution. His surpression of a royalist insurrection in 1795 shot Bonaparte to sudden fame and had him promoted to Commander of the Interior and of the Army of Italy. With his new position, he made the Ecole Militaire his headquarters.

L’Arc de Triomphe

The most famous site connected to Napoléon, and one of the most visited sites in Paris, is certainly this mammoth triumphal arch. After his victory at Austerlitz in 1806, the Emperor commissioned a number of commemorative projects to celebrate his military campaigns. A number of propositions were put forth for the largest of these monuments and, for a time, there were plans to construct a massive elephant fountain in the centre of Place de l’Etoile and at the end of the Champs Elysées. In the end, Napoleon’s love of the antiquities, especially Roman monuments and symbolism, won out. The 50-metre high archway, which was originally designed to commemorate those who fought and died in the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars, features sculptures by leading artists of the era. Only partially completed when the Emperor was ousted from power in 1814, the archway was finally completed in 1836, during the reign of King Louis-Philippe, just in time for Napoléon’s remains to pass beneath it when they were returned to France on 1840.

L’Arc du Carroussel

Despite its very central location, between the Louvre and the Tuileries Garden, this second archway built by Napoléon often gets overshadowed by its more famous bigger sister. Constructed between 1806 and 1808, it too commemorates the battle of Austerlitz and other Napoleonic military victories. It is adorned with pink marble columns, statues and commemorative friezes, although it’s the sculpture on the top that’s the most interesting. During Napoleon’s conquest of Italy, the Horses of Saint Mark’s Basilica, already spoils from the Venetian Republic’s attacks on Constantinople, were pillaged and placed atop the arch. After the fall of Napoleon, the French were forced to return the original and this copy was added in its place.

Colonne Vendôme

Another Roman-style monument, this gigantic column is modelled after Trajan’s column in Rome. Also commemorating the victory at Austerlitz, and placed in the prestigious Place Vendôme, the bronze column was made from the melted down canons captured from the Russians and Austrians defeated in the legendary battle. The base of the 44 metre-high structure are Napoleonic eagles, whereas traveling up it is the story of the battle, atop which is Napoléon, holding a miniature Victory in his hand. This is, however, a replacement of the original column which was toppled by Communards during the 1871 Commune de Paris revolt (more on this event in this article on the Commune).

Fontaine du Palmier

The largest of 15 fountains commissioned by Napoleon in 1806, it was designed to provide fresh drinking water to the city. However, in true Napoleonic style, it also honours his military victories. At the base of the fountain are four sphinxes, eluding to the Emperor’s Egyptian campaign, from where the water spurts into a round basin. Above these are laurel-laden eagles and an Egyptian style column rising in palms, which gives the fountain its name. It too is crowned by Victory, holding out more laurels and the names of various battles are listed around it. This fountain’s location is also significant, built on the former site of Le Grand Châtelet, a formidable fortress and symbol of L’Ancien Régime, destroyed just like La Bastille.

Église de la Madeleine. Photo: Jose Losada / Flickr

L’Eglise de La Madeleine

Although this is a Catholic church today, this Greek Temple-esque structure dominating Place de la Madeleine has had various inceptions. Prior to the French Revolution the building of a church dedicated to Mary Magdalene had begun on this site, a project abandoned during the turmoil and anti-religious times. The foundations and finished portico stood for over a decade before Napoléon decided in 1806 to convert the designs into a Temple to the Glory of the Great Army. Incomplete at the fall of the Emperor, the restitution of the Monarchy steered the building’s course back in the direction of a church. Nevertheless, in 1837 there was talk of turning the building into Paris first railway station, but Mary Magdalene prevailed in the end and the church was consecrated in her honour in 1842.

Place de la Bourse, Photo: mksfca / Flickr

Palais de la Bourse

Although it was decided to move the previous Stock Echanges prior to Napoléon’s reign, he gets the credit for bringing all of Paris’s stock trading under one roof. It’s known as the Palais Brongniart, in honour of its architect, Alexandre-Théodore Brongniart, who was tasked by Bonaparte to design a structure worthy of representing France’s commercial power. Similar in appearance to La Madeleine, the rectangular neoclassical building is also surrounded a colonnade. With the shift of trading online, the building is now rented out for congresses and other events.

Musée-de-l'Armée-Tombeau-de-Napoléon-Eglise-du-Dôme-_-630x405-_-©-OTCP-DR

Tomb of Napoléon, Musée de l’Armée Photo: OTCP/DR

Les Invalides

When Napoléon’s remains returned to France in 1840, it was decided that his final resting place should be the Saint-Louis Cathedral, the Military church of the Les Invalides complex. Built under Louis XIV and designed by Jules Hardouin Mansart from 1677, at 107 metres, the cathedral’s dome is the highest in France and considered by many to be its most beautiful. Gilded in gold on the outside, it is deep in its crypt where the Emperor’s tomb is found, made of red quartzite and sitting on a green granite base. A visit to the tomb is included on entrance tickets to the Musée de l’Armée at the Invalides.

You can further learn about Napoléon in the exhibit dedicated to him taking place at La Villette from 19 May to 19 September, 2021, or by visiting the castles of Malmaison and Fontainebleau, two popular residences of the Emperor.

Alternatively, delve deeper into the history of the city’s art, architecture and film by pursuing one of our Paris Master’s Programmes.

Save the Date for our Annual Paris Postgraduate Festival!

Our Paris School’s Five-day Cultural Festival – 1-5 June 2021

The COVID-19 global pandemic has shattered life as we knew it. Through this destruction, the importance of our artistic values has been made clear. Art allows us to escape the repetition of the everyday. Art allows us to inhabit the spaces and bodies that reach beyond our wildest dreams. Art is a tool we can use to construct a new reality.

Therefore, this year’s Postgraduate Festival organised by the students of the Paris School of Arts and Culture will focus on the theme of Escapism. Our theme is now more relevant than ever; don’t we all want to escape from the daily reality that we are faced with during this pandemic?

Given current health and safety measures, the festival will take place virtually, however, this also allows us to go beyond geographic boundaries. It is time for us to join together as a community and rebuild our world—one that is no longer confined to the physical realm. By dedicating a week to artistic endeavours revolving around Escapism, we welcome you to consider the role art plays in your conception of the world.

We are hoping to provide you with an escape from our current reality through a programme of thought-provoking virtual events, including talks by drag performers, authors and artists, as well as a film screening and paint and sip event, all with the participation of creatives from around the globe.

We are warmly inviting you to our online escape. Stay tuned for the full programme soon available on the festival website or follow our social media accounts (Facebook / Instagram) for the latest news and guest announcements.

Stay safe,
University of Kent Paris Festival Team

Top Street Artists to Spot Around Paris

Although Paris comes across as a more classic city when it comes to art, it actually has an exciting street art scene. This is thanks to innovative street artists who have forged a path for newcomers and added colour to the beige palette of the cityscape. Here are some of the pioneering figures and most active ones today as well as some tips on where you can seek out their works.

Blek Le Rat. Photo: Eric Lin / Flickr

Blek Le Rat

One of the earliest French street artist and one of the very first to use stencils, since the early 1980s this artist has been stencilling rats, and other images, across the city. According to the artist, the rat “the only free animal in the city”, and one which “spreads the plague everywhere, just like street art”. In 1991 he was arrested while stenciling on the Champs Elysées, therefore, since then he’s been creating his works on paper and pasting them instead of painting them directly onto buildings. His work has become more political over the years, addressing topics such as the environment and homelessness. Learn more about his work in this short documentary in English by Arte.

Miss.tic rue de Veron / L.Heise

Miss.Tic

One of France’s first street artists, Miss.Tic’s black and white stencil art is usually paired with a short poem or pun. A feminist, her provocative work, often featuring a dark hair woman, challenges female stereotypes and the representation of the female body. You can spot a number of her works around Montmartre (like some new ones on rue de Veron), where she spent her early childhood years.

Jef Aerosol, place Igor Stravinsky. Photo: Ferdinand Feys / Flickr

Jef Aerosol

Another artist who’s been added colour to the capital since the early 1980s, Jef Aérosol’s (Jean-François Perroy) works span the globe and he currently lives in the northern French city of Lille. His mostly stencil-based murals are usually in the form of oversized portraits. These always have a red arrow somewhere on them, a symbol to help you know that it his work. In fact, you have probably already seen his most famous work in Paris, the gigantic mural entitled Chuuuttt!!! (Hush!), painted in 2011 on a building wall in place Igor Stravinsky next to the Centre Pompidou.

Invader. Photo: Delete / Flickr

Invader

With just shy of 4,000 works in almost 80 cities around the world, Invader (Franck Slama) is France’s best known and most widespread street artist. A graduate of the Fine Arts Academy of Rouen, since 1996 he has been creating his signature space invaders and other pixelated mosaic works, mostly inspired by 1970s and 80s video games. These often have a slight creative twist, like the above image, or with a subtle twist connected to the work’s location. There are over 1,000 in Paris, often in the most unlikely places, there’s even one on the Eiffel Tower! You can have fun logging (and verifying the authenticity) of the ones you find via the app, Flash Invader, which tallies up your points, just like a video game.

Les temps d’une vie, C215. Photo: Jeanne Menjoulet / Flickr

C215

Born in the Parisian suburb of Bondy, C215 (Christian Guémy) now lives and works in Ivry-sur-Seine. He’s put this southern suburb on the “street art map”, but his work can be found around the capital and in a number of cities around the world. Active since 2006, C215 is known for his vivid and beautifully done stencilled portraits with spray-painted colour added. Instead of building walls, these can usually be found on post boxes or other utility objects. His work often explores social issues and feature the portraits of the homeless or refugees. He’s also been commissioned to do various projects for the different Parisian districts, including the portraits of important historical figures of the Marais and the 5^th arrondissement, some of which are still visible in these neighborhoods.

Le Diamantaire. Photo: Nefasth / Flickr

Le Diamantaire

Another street artist who doesn’t use a spray can, Le Diamantaire (the “Diamond Maker”) is known for his diamond-shaped creations. Born in 1987 in the Normand city of Caen, he trained in various metal-working techniques. He started using these skills to make street art in 2008. His diamonds tend to be made of pieces of mirror he finds and are often painted different colours. The artist sees these as jewels for the city and can often be found next to the street signs, which are posted onto buildings in Paris.

If you’d like a little more guidance on discovering street art in Paris, refer to this handy interactive map which is also updated regularly.

If you would like to study the history of art in Paris in more depth, considering pursuing our Master’s degree in the History and Philosophy of Art.

The Evolving City: Reinventing Parisian Squares for the 21st Century

Over the last decade Paris has been implementing a range of eco-friendly and sustainable initiatives. Some of these have little visible effect on the overall appearance of the city, like increased bike lanes, however, the local municipality has recently embarked on vast project to renew seven of its most iconic squares as well as the Champs-Elysées and the area around the Eiffel Tower. These large-scale projects aim to make Paris more accessible, greener, more beautiful and allow the city and its citizens to produce and breath fresher air.

The project revolves around seven of the city’s largest squares, which are distributed around the city: Nation, Gambetta, Bastille, Italie, Madeleine, Panthéon and Fêtes. Separately from the seven squares, there are also big plans for two of the most visited areas of Paris: Les Champs-Elysées and the area around the Eiffel Tower. The initiative is part of the Paris Climate Action Plan, a municipal-level initiative to meet the objectives of the Paris Climate Agreement with the ultimate goal of making Paris carbon neutral by 2050.

The future Champs-Elysées. Image: Paris Futur

Hearing from residents was very important in the early steps of the process. To achieve this, the city set up an online platform to gather input from the residents, launched in 2015. Further public opinion was gathered during 150 “town hall” style meetings and workshops. The key elements residents wanted these urban spaces to have were increased vegetation, larger pedestrian walkways, enhanced fluidity of movement and the ability to better enjoy these public space. Protected bike lanes and reduced automobile traffic (and thus noise pollution) were other factors highlighted in these public forums.

champs-elysees-place-de-la-concorde-2030-2

The future Place-de-la-Concorde. Image: Paris Futur

In 2017, four collectives of architects, landscape architects, ethnologists and other specialists began designing these new spaces. The same year, the Paris Pedestrian Strategy was put in place in order to increase and simplify pedestrian walkways in the city. Similarly, the Paris Respire (Paris Breaths) initiative has born, with the objective of introducing several “breathing spaces” in each district as well as encouraging more cycling.

The future Place-de-la-Bastille. Image: Ville de Paris

The global results of the project should claim 25,000 m2 from traffic lanes, which will be converted into sidewalks, bike paths, sitting areas and vegetation. There should also be a total increased area of 15,000 m2 of vegetation, including the planting of 150 trees, as well as 5,000 m2 less pf asphalt-covered surfaces. What’s more, these squares will be 100 % accessible for people with reduced mobility and they will be equipped with ground markers for the visually impaired. Lastly, the squares will feature either water misters or water pools with jets, to help residents cool down on hot summer days.

Site Tour Eiffel . Amphithéâtre du Trocadéro © GP+B

Site Tour Eiffel . Amphithéâtre du Trocadéro Ville de Paris © GP+B

With the 2024 Summer Olympic games in sight, Paris is also reinventing the zone around the Eiffel Tower and that of Les Champs-Elysées. Entitled “OnE I”, the Eiffel Tower site project will extend from Le Champs de Mars, across the Iena Bridge and up to Place du Trocadero and created “green lungs” within Paris. The Trocadero gardens are going to be redesigned, and cherry trees planted, as well as the upper levels of Trocadero where and green amphitheatre like space will be created. All of these spaces will be accessible for people with mobility issues. Greenery will be planted on the Iéna bridge, the walkways along the Seine and the gardens of the Champs-de-Mars will also be refurbished. The Champs-Elysées project was given the green light by the Paris mayor in January 2021. The “most beautiful avenue in the world” will become even more beautiful thanks to a doubling of its greenery and pedestrian walkways.

les-champs-elysees-revamped-2024-study-in-paris

The future Champs-Elysées. Image: ©PCA-Stream

You don’t have to wait for 2024 to enjoy these improved public spaces in Paris, the works are being rolled out gradually. One of the first to be completed is Place du Panthéon which now has a modern urban sitting area on the north side, with benches made of recycled material. Much of the work has already been completed at Place de la Nation and Place de la Bastille, so you can already enjoy more space for enjoying both of these squares. Year by year, they will become more and more beautiful as the greener grows!

Immerse yourself into evolving Paris by pursuing a Master’s at our Paris School of Arts and Culture. Our Programmes in Architecture and Urban Design, the History and Philosophy of Art, Film and Creative Writing allow you to connect with Paris on a deeper level. View our full range of programmes here.

Parisian History Focus: 150-Year Anniversary of the Paris Commune

The date of 18 March marked the 150th anniversary of the Commune de Paris, a two and a half month long insurrection which occurred in 1871, the last of France’s almost century of revolutions. It was sparked due to the instability which arose in the wake of the French defeat during the Franco-Prussian war and led to a power between the socialist “Communards” and the Republican Gard. The bloody episode in French history involved intense fighting in the streets of Paris and other deadly events. There are various sites around Paris which still bear witness to the Paris Commune. Below are some of the more relevant or visually evocative examples of these.

Plaza in front of Sacré-Coeur

The government’s attempt to remove the canons, placed in front of Sacré-Coeur to defend the city during the Franco-Prussian war, was a key factor in the outbreak of the insurrection on 18 March 1871 (see above photo). There were further canons in Menilmontant, Place des Vosges and other venues around the city.

Square Louise Michel

Although this small square at the bottom of Sacré-Coeur was created in the wake of the defeat of the Paris Commune, in 2004 it was renamed after Louise Michel. A school teacher in Montmartre, she became one of the best known figures of the Paris Commune.

Le mur des Fédérés – Cimetière du Père-Lachaise Photo: Roger Viollet

Le mur des Fédérés – Cimetière du Père-Lachaise

There is a memorial here on the spot where one-hundred and forty-seven fédérés, combatants of the Paris Commune, were shot at the foot of the wall and thrown into an open grave at the end of the revolt on 28 May 1871.

Villa des Otages (85 rue Haxo, 75020)

A café-concert at this address had been converted into a command post. On 26 May 1871, 52 hostages from the La Roquette prison, including 34 gendarmes and 11 Jesuits, were taken here and executed. There is a commemorative plaque labeled “villa des otages” on the outside of the building and a memorial is dedicated to them at the nearby Belleville cemetery.

Commune Graffiti in Eglise Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis Photo: Un Jour de Plus a Paris

Église Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis

Few people know that this beautiful Baroque church in the Marais contains an interesting piece of Commune graffiti. Look for the second pillar on the right when entering the church and you can see the faint words “République française ou la mort” (French Republic or death) which were not able to be completely removed.

Hotel de Ville

The Communards set many buildings on fire during the rebellion. Some of these were so badly damaged that they were not rebuilt, like the Tuileries Palace and a palace which stood on the site where the Musée was later built. L’Hotel de Ville, Paris’s City Hall, was among the structures damaged yet restored.

Destruction of the Vendome Column

Colonne Vendome

A group of Communards, led by painter Gustave Courbet, torn down and badly damaged the column erected by Napoleon Bonaparte in the early 1800s. The artist was later forced to pay for it to be rebuilt, which led to his bankruptcy and exile to Switzerland.

You can learn more about the revolt in this recent article on the BBC or in the academic publications on the Digital Libraries site. As it is quite complex you can also get a better grasp of it via this useful Paris Commune timeline.

The Evolving City: a New Life for the Former Petite Ceinture Railway

There are a number of interesting urban renewal projects to study in Paris and one of the most interesting is the rehabilitation of La Petite Ceinture, or “The Little Belt” in French. Over the past few decades, sections of this defunct 32-kilometre rail line which encircled Paris, have been converted into picturesque walkways and some of the former stations have been transformed into bars and cultural centres.

Map of the Petite Ceinture and Paris rail links of the 1800s.

In the mid-19th century a vast network of rail lines was created in and around Paris. Some lines were built for inter-city travel, while others were designed to transport suburban commuters in and out of the city. Certain sections of the latter are still in use, however, when the RER underground suburban train network was developed in the 1960s, most of the above-ground suburban lines within the Paris city limits were phased out. It is only in recent times that parts of these have been rehabilitated.

Coulée Verte Réné-Dumont (Promenade Plantée)

This urban renewal project started with an impressive 1.5 km long viaduct extending east from Place de la Bastille, La Coulée Verte René-Dumont, also known as the Promenade Plantée. In the late 1980s a path and garden was created atop the viaduct and the large space beneath its 64 arch was encased in massive panels of glass and turned into art galleries, artisanal workshops and design boutiques. A beautiful example of architectural preservation and repurposing, the Coulée Verte was the inspiration for numerous other projects like this, both in Paris and around the world, namely the High Line in New York.

The success of the Coulée Verte sparked the refurbishment of other disused rail lines, starting of the sections the Petite Ceinture. While the totality of the former network has not been revamped, there are a number of stretches which can be walked, or visited in some capacity.

La Petite Ceinture du 15eme

A 1.3-kilometre stretch can be walked in the 15th, starting via an entrance across from 99 rue Olivier de Serres and ending in Place Ballard. This section of tracks is one of the newer ones refurbished, opening in 2013. As you amble along the peaceful pathway, you will pass alongside the walls of buildings, examples of street art and some unique vantage points of the arrondissement. The 16th district has a revamped section called le Sentier Nature and the 12th has a nice section which connects with the Coulée-Verte Réné-Dumont.

La Recyclerie, former Petite Ceinture station

Various former stations have also been reinvented. The first of these was La Fleche d’Or, opened as an alternative concert venue and bar in the mid 1990s. Closed then reopened, then closed again, it’s since reopened as a neighborhood association and has a bar, with very reasonable prices, open to everyone (closed currently due to Covid restrictions). Two of the former stations in the 18th have been refurbished into cool contemporary venues. La Recyclerie, is an eco-responsible bar and restaurant which also has seating and a garden down by the train tracks (it is currently open and you can get takeaway food or drinks). A little further west is Le Hasard Ludique, which also has relaxed seating alongside the tracks, in addition to food prepared by refugee chefs and a great programme of workshops and concerts (currently closed due to covid restrictions). Two refurbished stations have a chicer appeal: Le Poincon in the 14th and La Gare in the 16th.

Photo Credits:

1st image: La Petite Ceinture. Photo: Vincent Anderlucci / Flickr

Other photos by Lily Heise

The Evolving City: The Best Contemporary Architecture in Paris

Parisians have not always been welcoming to modern architecture. The city itself underwent massive urban restructuring in the mid-19^th century during the rule of Napoléon III and overseen by Prefect Baron Haussmann. It wasn’t until a century later that the city experienced another wave of ‘modernism’, mostly relegated outside the city centre in the La Défense business district, although a few modern buildings popped up intramuros, such as the eclectic Centre Pompidou and the predominantly unpopular Tour Montparnasse. The 1980s and 90s saw the arrival of Les Grands Projets, a series of large scale building works instigated by President Mitterrand, including the Bibliothèque Nationale, the Opera Bastille, the Pyramid of the Louvre and the Grand Arche de la Défense. But how has the cityscape changed since then? From designs by Jean Nouvel to the return of Renzo Piano, here are the most notable examples of contemporary architecture in Paris built since the start of the 21^st century.

Photo Credit: Fondation Louis Vuitton

Fondation Louis Vuitton – Frank Gehry (2014)

The recent building that has received the most unanimous praise from critics and citizens alike is this gleaming art centre nestled within the Bois de Boulogne woods at the western edge of Paris. In true Gehry form, mammoth curvaceous glass panels on wooden frames, nicknamed the “sails”, are at the forefront; these sit atop white blocks, or “icebergs”, which seem to float in pools of water. The sleek building hosts temporary exhibits revolving around the works of the Louis Vuitton fashion house collection, however, the building itself is well-worth visiting in its own right.

Photo Credit: Philharmonie de Paris

Philharmonie de Paris – Jean Nouvel (2015)

No other architect has left their mark on modern Paris than Jean Nouvel. His latest Parisian building, la Philharmonie de Paris, located within the Parc de la Villette in northeastern Paris, certainly does not leave one indifferent. Created for the Symphony Orchestra of Paris, Nouvel paid particular attention to its 2,400 seat-auditorium, which has a central stage encircled by undulating tiers of seating to bring the audience as close to the musicians as possible. The eye-catching metallic exterior is enveloped in 265,000 aluminium birds which appear to swirl up around the building, perhaps dancing to the music performed within?

Photo Credit: Tribunal de Paris

Tribunal de Paris – Renzo Piano (2018)

Forty years after designing the Centre Pompidou in tandem with Richard Rogers, Italian architect Renzo Piano’s return to the Parisian architecture scene was not met with as much enthusiasm as the iconic modern art museum. The tallest building constructed in Paris since the 56-story Tour Montparnasse was completed in 1973, the new 38-floor Paris court house shimmers on the northwest fringes of the city, so much so, that the building almost goes unnoticed. The glass tower makes up for its lacklustre looks courtesy of its sustainability facilities including solar panels, enhanced thermal insulation, rainwater collection and other cutting edge eco-friendly technology.

Photo Credit: la Seine Musicale

La Seine Musicale – Shigeru Ban and Jean de Gastines (2017)

Located in a crook of the Seine off of the southwestern suburb of Boulogne-Billancourt, the former industrial island of Île Seguin, was given new life thanks to this dazzling concert hall. A play on words blending its location and its purpose, La Seine Musicale was a collaboration between French architect Jean de Gastines and Japanese Shigeru Ban, winner of the prestigious Pritzker Prize. The oval-shaped structure is encased in glass sexagons and is hugged by a curved grouping of solar panels which creates a dramatic effect akin to a musical crescendo. The auditorium is equally impressive, with a ceiling of wooden honey-combs mirroring the exterior panels. Even if you don’t get to see the interior during one of its concerts or dance performances, a tour of the exterior still impresses.

Photo Credit: Cité de la Mode et Design

La Cité de la Mode et du Design / Les Docks de Paris – Jakob + MacFarlane (2010)

The arrival of the new Bibliothèque Nationale in 1990s, ushered in a new urban era for the northeast section of the 13^th arrondissement which, especially over the last 10 years, has developed into the most exciting hub of Parisian contemporary architecture. The best known, and most recognisable example is this daring building. The French architectural firm of Dominique Jakob and Brendan MacFarlane deftly succeeded in converting an early 20^th century concrete shipping depot into a hip centre for fashion and design. One can’t miss it thanks to the swooshing wave of green passageways dissecting the river-facing façade. The building houses the French Institute of Fashion, contemporary art exhibition spaces, shops and several bars on its sprawling rooftop.

Photo Credit: Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac

Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac – Jean Nouvel (2006)

In the shadow of the Eiffel Tower is former President Jacques Chirac’s legacy to Paris, also designed by Jean Nouvel. According to the architect, the museum was built around the collection it was due to host; the French state’s 300,000 works from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Perched on stilts and hidden within trees, the building consists of large suspended, multi-colored boxes juxtaposed by a vast vertical garden, one of the city’s first, covering one entire wall. Rising in a spiral, the interiors guide visitors on an organic flow throughout the displays. It also has a rooftop restaurant with stunning views of the Tour Eiffel.

Photo Credit: la Tour Triangle

This wave of contemporary architecture is far from over. Keep your eyes on the city’s horizon in the coming years for the arrival of Herzog & de Meuron’s Tour Triangle and a number of new soaring towers at la Défense, which will come dangerously close to the Eiffel Tower’s height of 324 metres.

What to do in Paris right now: 5 Covid and curfew safe activities

Although many of Paris cultural institutions, including museums, historic sites and cinemas, are temporarily closed due to Covid-19 safety protocols, there are still a number of ways in which one can experience culture. From street art tours to virtual literary events, here are five creative alternatives cultural things to do in Paris that are both safe and accessible.

Street Art murals, Paris 75013. Photo: Lily Heise

Get Your Art Fix

Museums may be currently closed, however, most private art galleries around the city are open. Many of the best contemporary galleries are located in the Upper Marais, on and around rue Vieille du Temple (some are listed here). Or if you’re interested in more alternative contemporary art, you can discover Parisian street art by following one of these self-guided walking tours around Belleville or the 13th, two of the city’s top street art hubs.

Photo Courtesy of Ten Belles Paris

Enjoy Some Café Life

Although we are not able to sit on café terraces for the time being, a number of modern coffee shops are open for takeaway. Plus, the following ones are also close to great places for strolling, coffee in hand: Ten Belles (near the Canal St-Martin), Café Kitsuné (close to the Palais-Royal Garden and the Tuileries Gardens) KB, Ola’s Café and Marlette (bordering Montmartre).

MyFrenchFilmFestival.com

Experience French Cinema Culture

Film culture is very important in Paris and fortunately this isn’t completely paused right now. The Franco-German channel Arte is streaming some great free movies and documentaries, Lost in Frenchlation, a cool organisation which screens French cinema with subtitles in English and usually with Q&A with the director, is hosting some virtual events (the next one is Sat 23 January), or MyFrenchFilmFestival.com is currently taking place (through 15 February).

Author Rowan Hisayo Buchanan and her books Harmless Like you and Starling Days

Attend Literary Events

While in-person book readings and signings are on hold, there is a wide range of virtual events taking place. The American Library in Paris has several book groups as well as regular author talks (there are somegreat events coming up – rsvp required) or consider joining the Feminist Book Club (next online event 28 January), Paris Lit Up or one of these book clubs. These excellent English bookshops are also open right now.

Kent’s School of English also holds virtual events via its weekly Creative Writing Reading Series, held Tuesdays 6-7pm (GMT). On 26 January the guest will be Rowan Hisayo Buchanan, award-winning author of Harmless Like You and Starling Days. Join via Zoom here.

Photo courtesy of Chateau de Fontainebleau

Explore Ile-de-France

If you had been hoping to visit some of the historic sites in the Ile-de-France, the greater Parisian region, there are actually various opportunities. Although the interiors are closed for now, the gardens of many castles are still opened, like Versailles and Fontainebleau (the latter is also organizing tours of the gardens in French on weekends through the end of January). There are dozens of charming historic towns that are easy to get to from central Paris, like Provins, a well-preserved medieval town which is only an hour’s train ride away.

Immerse yourself in Paris and French culture through our MA programmes in Film Studies, the Philosophy of Art, Creative Writing and Medieval and Early Modern Studies. Learn more about our programmes here.