Category Archives: Architecture/Urbanism

la-petite-ceinture-pc-Vincent Anderlucci

The Evolving City: a New Life for the Former Petite Ceinture Railway

There are a number of interesting urban renewal projects to study in Paris and one of the most interesting is the rehabilitation of La Petite Ceinture, or “The Little Belt” in French. Over the past few decades, sections of this defunct 32-kilometre rail line which encircled Paris, have been converted into picturesque walkways and some of the former stations have been transformed into bars and cultural centres.

Map of the Petite Ceinture and Paris rail links of the 1800s.

In the mid-19th century a vast network of rail lines was created in and around Paris. Some lines were built for inter-city travel, while others were designed to transport suburban commuters in and out of the city. Certain sections of the latter are still in use, however, when the RER underground suburban train network was developed in the 1960s, most of the above-ground suburban lines within the Paris city limits were phased out. It is only in recent times that parts of these have been rehabilitated.

Coulée Verte Réné-Dumont (Promenade Plantée)

This urban renewal project started with an impressive 1.5 km long viaduct extending east from Place de la Bastille, La Coulée Verte René-Dumont, also known as the Promenade Plantée. In the late 1980s a path and garden was created atop the viaduct and the large space beneath its 64 arch was encased in massive panels of glass and turned into art galleries, artisanal workshops and design boutiques. A beautiful example of architectural preservation and repurposing, the Coulée Verte was the inspiration for numerous other projects like this, both in Paris and around the world, namely the High Line in New York.

The success of the Coulée Verte sparked the refurbishment of other disused rail lines, starting of the sections the Petite Ceinture. While the totality of the former network has not been revamped, there are a number of stretches which can be walked, or visited in some capacity.

La-Petite-Ceinture-Lily-Heise

La Petite Ceinture du 15eme

A 1.3-kilometre stretch can be walked in the 15th, starting via an entrance across from 99 rue Olivier de Serres and ending in Place Ballard. This section of tracks is one of the newer ones refurbished, opening in 2013. As you amble along the peaceful pathway, you will pass alongside the walls of buildings, examples of street art and some unique vantage points of the arrondissement. The 16th district has a revamped section called le Sentier Nature and the 12th has a nice section which connects with the Coulée-Verte Réné-Dumont.

la-recyclerie-Lily-Heise

La Recyclerie, former Petite Ceinture station

Various former stations have also been reinvented. The first of these was La Fleche d’Or, opened as an alternative concert venue and bar in the mid 1990s. Closed then reopened, then closed again, it’s since reopened as a neighborhood association and has a bar, with very reasonable prices, open to everyone (closed currently due to Covid restrictions). Two of the former stations in the 18th have been refurbished into cool contemporary venues. La Recyclerie, is an eco-responsible bar and restaurant which also has seating and a garden down by the train tracks (it is currently open and you can get takeaway food or drinks).  A little further west is Le Hasard Ludique, which also has relaxed seating alongside the tracks, in addition to food prepared by refugee chefs and a great programme of workshops and concerts (currently closed due to covid restrictions). Two refurbished stations have a chicer appeal: Le Poincon in the 14th and La Gare in the 16th.

Photo Credits:

1st image: La Petite Ceinture. Photo: Vincent Anderlucci / Flickr

Other photos by Lily Heise

Fondation Louis Vuitton Paris

The Evolving City: The Best Contemporary Architecture in Paris

Parisians have not always been welcoming to modern architecture. The city itself underwent massive urban restructuring in the mid-19th century during the rule of Napoléon III and overseen by Prefect Baron Haussmann. It wasn’t until a century later that the city experienced another wave of ‘modernism’, mostly relegated outside the city centre in the La Défense business district, although a few modern buildings popped up intramuros, such as the eclectic Centre Pompidou and the predominantly unpopular Tour Montparnasse. The 1980s and 90s saw the arrival of Les Grands Projets, a series of large scale building works instigated by President Mitterrand, including the Bibliothèque Nationale, the Opera Bastille, the Pyramid of the Louvre and the Grand Arche de la Défense. But how has the cityscape changed since then? From designs by Jean Nouvel to the return of Renzo Piano, here are the most notable examples of contemporary architecture in Paris built since the start of the 21st century.

Photo Credit: Fondation Louis Vuitton

Fondation Louis Vuitton – Frank Gehry (2014)

The recent building that has received the most unanimous praise from critics and citizens alike is this gleaming art centre nestled within the Bois de Boulogne woods at the western edge of Paris. In true Gehry form, mammoth curvaceous glass panels on wooden frames, nicknamed the “sails”, are at the forefront; these sit atop white blocks, or “icebergs”, which seem to float in pools of water. The sleek building hosts temporary exhibits revolving around the works of the Louis Vuitton fashion house collection, however, the building itself is well-worth visiting in its own right.

Photo Credit: Philharmonie de Paris

Philharmonie de Paris –  Jean Nouvel (2015)

No other architect has left their mark on modern Paris than Jean Nouvel. His latest Parisian building, la Philharmonie de Paris, located within the Parc de la Villette in northeastern Paris, certainly does not leave one indifferent. Created for the Symphony Orchestra of Paris, Nouvel paid particular attention to its 2,400 seat-auditorium, which has a central stage encircled by undulating tiers of seating to bring the audience as close to the musicians as possible. The eye-catching metallic exterior is enveloped in 265,000 aluminium birds which appear to swirl up around the building, perhaps dancing to the music performed within?

Photo Credit: Tribunal de Paris

Tribunal de Paris – Renzo Piano (2018)

Forty years after designing the Centre Pompidou in tandem with Richard Rogers, Italian architect Renzo Piano’s return to the Parisian architecture scene was not met with as much enthusiasm as the iconic modern art museum. The tallest building constructed in Paris since the 56-story Tour Montparnasse was completed in 1973, the new 38-floor Paris court house shimmers on the northwest fringes of the city, so much so, that the building almost goes unnoticed. The glass tower makes up for its lacklustre looks courtesy of its sustainability facilities including solar panels, enhanced thermal insulation, rainwater collection and other cutting edge eco-friendly technology.

la Seine Musicale

Photo Credit: la Seine Musicale

La Seine Musicale – Shigeru Ban and Jean de Gastines (2017)

Located in a crook of the Seine off of the southwestern suburb of Boulogne-Billancourt, the former industrial island of Île Seguin, was given new life thanks to this dazzling concert hall. A play on words blending its location and its purpose, La Seine Musicale was a collaboration between French architect Jean de Gastines and Japanese Shigeru Ban, winner of the prestigious Pritzker Prize. The oval-shaped structure is encased in glass sexagons and is hugged by a curved grouping of solar panels which creates a dramatic effect akin to a musical crescendo. The auditorium is equally impressive, with a ceiling of wooden honey-combs mirroring the exterior panels. Even if you don’t get to see the interior during one of its concerts or dance performances, a tour of the exterior still impresses.

Cité de la Mode et Design Paris

Photo Credit: Cité de la Mode et Design

La Cité de la Mode et du Design / Les Docks de Paris –  Jakob + MacFarlane (2010)

The arrival of the new Bibliothèque Nationale in 1990s, ushered in a new urban era for the northeast section of the 13th arrondissement which, especially over the last 10 years, has developed into the most exciting hub of Parisian contemporary architecture. The best known, and most recognisable example is this daring building. The French architectural firm of Dominique Jakob and Brendan MacFarlane deftly succeeded in converting an early 20th century concrete shipping depot into a hip centre for fashion and design. One can’t miss it thanks to the swooshing wave of green passageways dissecting the river-facing façade. The building houses the French Institute of Fashion, contemporary art exhibition spaces, shops and several bars on its sprawling rooftop.

Musée du Quai Branly

Photo Credit: Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac

Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac – Jean Nouvel (2006)

In the shadow of the Eiffel Tower is former President Jacques Chirac’s legacy to Paris, also designed by Jean Nouvel. According to the architect, the museum was built around the collection it was due to host; the French state’s 300,000 works from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Perched on stilts and hidden within trees, the building consists of large suspended, multi-colored boxes juxtaposed by a vast vertical garden, one of the city’s first, covering one entire wall. Rising in a spiral, the interiors guide visitors on an organic flow throughout the displays. It also has a rooftop restaurant with stunning views of the Tour Eiffel.

Tour_Triangle_Paris

Photo Credit: la Tour Triangle

This wave of contemporary architecture is far from over. Keep your eyes on the city’s horizon in the coming years for the arrival of Herzog & de Meuron’s Tour Triangle and a number of new soaring towers at la Défense, which will come dangerously close to the Eiffel Tower’s height of 324 metres.