Monthly Archives: July 2021

Discovering the Jewish Heritage of the Marais

Today the Marais is one of the historically rich and also chicest neighbourhoods of Paris. One of the former homes of Paris’ Ashkenazi community, many traditional Jewish shops and restaurants have been replaced with trendy boutiques, though the district retains many key historic Jewish sites and spirit. We highlight a few sites of interest here.

Rue des Rosiers

Nicknamed the Pletzl, Yiddish for “little square”, this mostly pedestrian street was once lined with Jewish shops and restaurants. A few of these remain, like several bookshops and some kosher food shops, so be sure to come hungry. Within this later category is the Sacha Finkelsztajn bakery which dates back to 1947 and a number of Israeli street food venues including the mouth-watering L’As du Fallafel, which claims to have the world’s best falafel sandwiches and the more modern Miznon, located around the corner on rue des Ecouffes. Also of note on the street is the École de l’ORT (4 bis rue des Rosiers), a philanthropic Jewish trade school opened in 1852 which is still training young people.

École des Hospitalières Saint-Gervais. VVVCFFrance / CC

École des Hospitalières Saint-Gervais

10 rue des Hospitalières-Saint-Gervais, 75004 Paris

Just up from rue des Rosiers is the city’s first Israelite school. Founded in 1819, it moved to this location, a former butcher’s shop, in 1846. It was transformed into a state school in 1880, although most of its pupils were still Jewish and thus it would close on Saturdays when other French schools were open. A plaque on the outside commemorates the tragic disappearance of 165 of its pupils during the “Vel’d’Hiv” roundup of Parisian Jews on 16 July 1942. The square in front of it is also named in honour of the children of the area deported during WWII. You can see more of these commemorative plaques attached to buildings throughout the neighborhood.

Agoudas Hakehilos Synagogue

10, rue Pavée, 75004 Paris

Sitting nearby on rue Pavée is this beautiful synagogue designed by Hector Guimard, the architect behind Paris’s iconic Art Nouveau métro entrances. Built by the Hassidic Jewish community of Russian origin and inaugurated in 1914, the synagogue took only a year to complete thanks to its use of modern building materials, namely concrete. It was the only religious building designed by Guimard. You can notice some Art Nouveau details on the building’s facade and further details common of the style can be seen on the long interior which is closed to the public save for the faithful attending worship.

Tournelles Synagogue

21 bis Rue des Tournelles, 75004 Paris

On a street east of Place des Vosges is this imposing synagogue, the second largest in Paris. Inaugurated as a consistorial temple in 1876, it was designed by Marcellin-Emmanuel Varcollier, a student of Baltard, the architect of the since demolished historic market buildings of Les Halles. Roman-Byzantine in style, the facade has a very French rose window above which are sculptures of the Tables of the Law. Since 1963 the synagogue has been allocated to Algerian Sephardic community.

The Museum of Jewish Art and History (MahJ)

71 rue du Temple, 75003 Paris

Located in a historic 17th-century mansion, the Hotel Saint-Aignan, this excellent museum has permanent and temporary exhibits on the evolution, history and art of the Jewish world. On display are religious objects, manuscripts, textiles and contemporary art by artists including Christian Boltanski and Sophie Calle. Also featured are archival documents on the Dreyfus Affair, which is paid homage to via the large bronze sculpture in its courtyard.

Jardin Anne-Frank

14 impasse Berthaud, 75003 Paris

Hidden at the end of a cul-de-sac in the shadow of the Centre Pompidou is this pretty garden dedicated to Jewish diarist Anne Frank. Opened in 2007 it spreads over the former gardens of the hotels Saint-Aignan and Mantion, and thus behind the The Museum of Jewish Art and History. Within the garden is an offshoot of a chestnut tree which Anne Frank admired from her window as well as fruit trees and rose trellises.

Memorial of the Shoah

17 Rue Geoffroy l’Asnier, 75004 Paris

This site north of the Seine acts as a memorial, documentation centre and museum on the history of the Jews during the Second World War. The documentation centre was begun in 1943 by Russian-born industrialist Isaac Schneersohn in the southeastern city of Grenoble with the aim of collecting evidence of the anti-Jewish persecution by the Nazis and Vichy government police. The memorial was inaugurated in 1956 and within the forecourt is a circular memorial listing the names of the death camps and the Warsaw Ghetto, beneath which are ashes from the sites. The walls commemorate the “Justes” (the “Righteous,” non-Jews who risk their lives to save Jewish people during the Occupation) as well as the Jews deported from the country during the holocaust. It is a solemn place of memorial which provides valuable insight into the atrocities inflicted upon the Jews in WWII and ensures their memory will not be forgotten.

Trace the Literary Greats of Paris at their Former Residences

Paris’s literary traditions go back hundreds of years and countless writers have lived across the city and been inspired by it and its residents. Some of these are commemorated by plaques, while others are have been converted into museums. Visiting these former residences of writers in Paris, even from the outside, provides fascinating insight into their lives and works.

Maison de Victor Hugo. Paris Info

Victor Hugo

Maison de Victor Hugo, 6 Place des Vosges, 75004

One of France’s most beloved authors lived in an apartment on Place des Vosges for 16 years from 1832 to 1848. It was here where Hugo worked on some of his most famous works, from novels (Les Miserables) to plays (Marie Tudor) and collections of poems (Beams and Shadows, The Legends of the Centuries). Converted into a museum run by the City of Paris, the Maison de Victor Hugo displays personal artifacts of the author and sheds light into life of the 19th century.

Maison de Balzac and top photo: Paris Info

Honoré de Balzac

Maison de Balzac, 47 Rue Raynouard, 75016 Paris

Hidden away on the “edge” of what was the village of Passy in the current day 16th district of the city, a countryside ambiance continues to prevail at this cottage lived in by Honoré de Balzac from 1840 to 1847. It was here where he edited La Comedie humaine and worked on La Rabouilleuse, Une ténébreuse affaire, La Cousine Bette, among others. Another museum of the City of Paris, since 1971 it has displayed manuscripts, original editions and other memorabilia linked to the writer.

Marcel Proust’s bedroom at the Musée Carnavalet

Marcel Proust

102 Blvd Haussmann, 75008

Proust spent much of his childhood in various apartments around the chic Parc Monceau. After his parents died he moved to this nearby apartment, which had belonged to his maternal uncle. He lived here from 1906 to 1919 and it is where he wrote much of his opus In Search of Lost Time. Now a bank, a plaque on the wall commemorates Proust’s time here. Although you can’t visit the interior of this elegant building, you can get a glimpse of the author’s bedroom, with furniture and other personal affects, on display in the Musée Carnavalet.

Plaque for Oscar Wilde on l’Hotel, Mu/CC

Wilde, Wolfe, Borges

L’Hôtel, 13 rue des Beaux Arts, 75006

Now a luxury hotel, this once down and out establishment of the Left Bank has housed a variety of writers. Having fled England for France in 1897, Irish playwright and poet Oscar Wilde was staying at this hotel when he passed away on 30 November, 1900. This is commemorated by a plate on the outside of the building and Wilde’s final resting place is the Pere Lachaise cemetery. English writer Thomas Wolfe also lived here for a year in 1925 and later in the century Argentinian writer Jorge Luis Borges regularly stayed at the hotel between 1977 and 1984.

Gertrude Stein’s apartment on rue Fleurus

Gertrude Stein

27 rue Fleurus, 75006

One of the most important cultural addresses of the early 20th century, Gertrude Stein and her brother Leo, then Alice B. Toklas, lived in an apartment at this Left Bank address from 1903 to 1937. It was here where Stein held her famous literary salons and worked on her books here including The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas, published in 1933. You can observe a plaque dedicated to her above the building’s entrance.

Hemingway Plaque on Rue Cardinal Lemoine. FLLL / CC

Ernest Hemingway

74 Cardinal Lemoine, 75005, 113 rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs, 75006, 6 rue Férou, 75006 and 69 rue Froidevaux, 75014

When they arrived in Paris, Ernest Hemingway and his first wife, Hadley, lived in a tiny apartment behind the Pantheon on rue Cardinal Lemoine from January 1922 until August 1923. He described this drafty residence in his memoir A Moveable Feast. There is also a commemorative plaque on the wall of the building. They later lived on Notre-Dame-des-Champs, near our Paris School, the Luxembourg Gardens and his favourite hangout, La Closerie des Lilas, in a long dusty flat above a sawmill and where Ezra Pound also had a studio. He stayed in the area when he moved in with his second companion, Pauline Pfeiffer, first living on the other side of the park on rue Férou and then further south in the Montparnasse district on rue Froidevaux.

58 rue de Vaugirard. Celette / CC

Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald

14 rue de Tilsitt, 75008 and 58 rue Vaugirard, 75006

The Fitzergeralds lived in various apartments in Paris, both on the Right and Left Bank of the city. When they first moved to Paris in 1925, they lived on a small side street, rue de Tilsitt, in the 8th arrondissement and around the corner from the Arc de Triomphe. They later crossed over to the Left Bank, where most of their friends were living, and in 1928 took up an apartment on rue de Vaugirard, near the Luxembourg Gardens.

Rue de Verneuil. Mbzt / CC

James Baldwin

Rue de Verneuil, 75007

This narrow street of the Saint Germain neighborhood is now famous for bearing the house of iconic French singer Serge Gainsberg, however, it once held several third-rate hotels. It was in these that James Baldwin lived during his early years in Paris. From here it was a short walk to the Café de Flore, popular with writers of the era and a favorite of Baldwin’s.

Looking to be inspired in your own writing in Paris? Advance your craft during our one-year Master’s in Creative Writing in Paris. Learn more about the programme here.

Ten Classic French Films to Watch

Since the early days of film and pioneering works like Georges Méliès’s Le Voyage dans la Lune (A Trip to the Moon, 1902), the French have excelled at filmmaking. Considered in France as the 7th art form, a number of French filmmakers have left their mark on cinema history with their chef d’oeuvres. Here are some of the top classic French films made up to 1970 to add to your film list.

La Règle du jeu (The Rules of the Game, 1939), Jean Renoir

Although it was a commercial and critical flop at the time of its released just before the outbreak of WWII, after a reconstruction in 1959 La Règle du Jeu went on to be deemed one of the greatest films in cinema history. Mainly set in a country house outside Paris, the satirical comedy-drama criticizes the relationship the French haut bourgeoisie had with their servants.

Les Enfants du paradis (Children of Paradise, 1945), Marcel Carné

Set in the world of Parisian theatre of the 1830s, this film shot by Carné during WWII was voted “Best Film of the Century” by leading French film critics. Although the word paradis often refers to Heaven in French, it also is used to describe the second balcony or gallery in a theatre, which is its significance in Carné’s cinematographic masterpiece. The story revolves around a courtesan, played by legendary French actress Arletty, and four suitors, a mime, an actor, a well-known criminal and an aristocrat, all of whom attempt to woo her in different ways.

Les Diaboliques (Diabolique, 1955), Henri-Georges Clouzot

This psychological thriller film, starring Simone Signoret, Véra Clouzot, Paul Meurisse and Charles Vanel was based on the novel She Who Was No More (Celle qui n’était plus) by Pierre Boileau and Thomas Narcejac. The Hitchcockian plot revolves around a woman and her husband’s mistress who conspire to murder him.

Hiroshima mon amour (Hiroshima My Love, 1959), Alain Resnais

In his first feature-length film, Alain Resnais helped draw attention to the French Nouvelle Vague with his innovative use of flashbacks to create a non-lineal timeline. The film traces the relationship of a French woman, Emmanuelle Riva, and Japanese man, Eiji Okada, in the wake of the Hiroshima bombings. It received a number of accolades, including an Academy Award nomination for its screenwriter Marguerite Duras.

Les quatre cents coups (The 400 Blows, 1959), François Truffaut

The directorial debut of iconic filmmaker François Truffaut, this was a seminal film of the French New Wave Movement. The film also marked a long collaboration between Truffaut and actor Jean-Pierre Léaud, often referred to as the filmmaker’s onscreen alter ego. The film follows troubled teen Antoine Doinel as he rebels against his teachers and parents. The film was nominated for the Palme d’Or at the 1959 Cannes Film Festival at which Truffaut won the Award for Best Director.

À bout de souffle (Breathless, 1960), Jean-Luc Godard

An international hit when it was released, Jean-Luc Godard’s first feature film helped put the spotlight on the Nouvelle Vague. Considered one of the best films of all time, it stars Jean-Paul Belmondo, a wandering criminal, and Jean Seberg, a young American in Paris. A mix between romance and drama, Godard used a bold visual style and innovative jump cuts.

Cléo de 5 à 7 (Cléo from 5 to 7, 1962), Agnès Varda

One of the leading filmmakers of the French New Wave, this film launched Agnès Varda’s career and formed her artistic practice. The story followers a young singer, Florence “Cléo” Victoire, as she awaits test results for a possible diagnosis of cancer. Unfolding in real time, Varda plays with this through her editing. The film explores themes of existentialism, popularized at the time by philosophers like Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir.

La Grande Vadrouille (Don’t Look Now… We’re Being Shot At!, 1966), Gérard Oury

For something a little more lighthearted, the French love comedies and this classic is high on the list of all-time favourites. Set in 1942, two French civilians, played by Louis de Funès and André Bourville, try to assist the crew of a Royal Air Force bomber shot down over Paris reach unoccupied France. Hilarious misadventures ensue.

Le Samouraï (The Samurai or The Godson, 1967), Jean-Pierre Melville

For those for a penchant for crime films, this is one of the best by French expert director of the genre Jean-Pierre Melville. Alain Delon plays a professional hitman who is seen by witnesses and then digs himself into a deeper hole trying to secure an alibi. Melville shows off his skills at creating suspense and ambiance.

Ma nuit chez Maud (My Night With Maud, 1969), Eric Rohmer

The last of the New Wave directors, this clever film raised Rohmer to the Pantheon of French filmmakers. The third film in his series of Six Moral Tales, the movie features features Jean-Louis Trintignant as a Catholic engineer who has a case of love at first sight with Françoise, a woman he meets by chance at Mass. He becomes determined to marry her, nevertheless, gets tempted by Maud, an alluring divorcée.

Interested in delving further into French Film? Learn more about our Master’s in Film in Paris at this link. The above films are often screen at these top Art House Cinemas in Paris.

Graduate Profile: Writer Tom Baragwanath

In the latest edition of our Alumni Spotlight series we connect with writer Tom Baragwanath, an alumnus of our Master’s in Creative Writing in Paris. Originally from New Zealand, Tom has recently been shortlisted for the 2021 Michael Gifkins Prize for an unpublished manuscript, Paper Cage, which he commenced during his Master’s. Read more about how Tom’s experience in our programme helped him advance his craft in our interview with him below.

Where are you from and what originally brought you to Paris?

I’m originally from Masterton, a small town in the rural Wairarapa region of New Zealand. I moved to Paris with my wife around four years ago. I have some family here and in the UK, and Paris has always attracted me as a place to live. It’s been fantastic to discover it over the last few years – though there’s still so much more for me to find, even in my quartier.

What attracted you most about studying at PSAC?

I’ve dabbled in writing fiction for a while now, and I was looking for a way to bring some structure and rigour to what I was doing on my own. I looked into a bunch of online programmes and programmes in the UK and the US, but being based in Paris already, PSAC was a convenient choice. I was also excited to see the kinds of writers teaching at PSAC, and I wanted to see how their particular styles, experiences, and practices could inform mine.

What were some of the highlights of your experience?

The biggest highlight for me was forming a new group of friends with fellow students, and having the opportunity to benefit from our collective suggestions on in-progress work. I’ve been part of a few writer’s groups in the past (with mixed results, frankly), and it was fantastic to be part of an environment in which people take writing seriously, and where writers are encouraged to approach their craft with discipline and energy. Every single class was a chance to find new inspiration in what other students were working on, and that can be hard to find. The guidance and suggestions from our teachers were indispensable, and helped me to find some new ways to approach the themes and concerns I’ve been working out through my fiction.

What are you currently doing and how did that opportunity come about?

At the moment I’m working in marketing as a Senior Content Editor for an EdTech startup in Paris, developing my manuscript Paper Cage, and refining a set of short stories I’ve had on the boil for a few years now. The opportunity came about through some freelance marketing work I was doing during my master’s programme, and it’s been fantastic so far. Good marketing is all about beguiling the audience with urgent and enjoyable stories, so a master’s in creative writing is pretty handy.

Do you think that your studies at PSAC helped with your career prospects?

Definitely – although that wasn’t at the top of my list when I signed up. My background is in law and public policy in New Zealand, so studying fiction full-time for a year did seem at times like something of an indulgence for me, especially considering how dry some of my previous work has been by comparison. Besides being helpful from a career perspective, programmes like the creative writing masters at Kent are one of the few places people are encouraged to treat fiction seriously, and not just as a part-time lark.

Would you recommend PSAC to potential students and if so what would you tell them?

For sure. I’d recommend PSAC to anyone thinking about taking some time to study something personally enriching in a stimulating and challenging academic environment, with attentive and dedicated teachers. It doesn’t hurt that you also get to spend time in one of the world’s greatest cities, either.

Learn more about Tom and his writing on his website.

Merci beaucoup, Tom!

A Student’s Perspective on Studying in Paris during the Pandemic

The prospects of moving to another country may seem daunting and the Covid-19 pandemic has added additional layers of complexity to international travel. Our students’ health and mental wellbeing, as well as maintaining the quality of our teaching, have remained our top priority, as outlined in this message from our Dean for Europe, Jeremy Carrette. Thanks to our intimate class sizes of the Paris School of Arts and Culture, we have been in the fortunate position of being able to continue delivering in-person teaching. We were very pleased to welcome students from around the world this past year, including students in enrolled on our programmes with a term in Paris. This is what brought Master’s in Film student Callum B. to Paris in January 2021. Read about Callum’s experience in Paris below.

“Studying with Kent in Paris truly was transformative moment in my life. The experiences I had during this time were incredible considering the ongoing pandemic. The staff at the university fully supported the students and provided a unique experience for us considering the situation. Above this, they were always available for a chat and were willing to help at any given moment. The staff truly adapted perfectly to the challenges they faced to give students the best experience possible, both in and out of the classroom.

“Despite many things being closed during my time in the city, I still have come away feeling more than satisfied with my experience. I was able to fully immerse myself in the Parisian lifestyle and enjoy many of the famous happenings that Paris has to offer. Additionally, through the course, I made fantastic friends and met people who I will treasure for the rest of my life.

“As the city begins to open again, I can only imagine how great it will be for future students coming to Reid Hall, who will have an incredible time on campus as well as creating new friendships and exploring this beautiful city.

“The university allowed me to have an opportunity that I will never forget and one that has opened my eyes to new possibilities in the future such as potentially returning to Paris to live.” — Callum B.

Since Callum’s departure at the end of our spring 2021 term, France has eased most Covid-19 restrictions, and a sense of vibrancy has returned to the city. You can read about current Covid-related restrictions in place on the French Government’s dedicated English-language website: https://www.gouvernement.fr/en/coronavirus-covid-19.

Learn more about studying at Kent in Paris here.

Choosing Where to Live in Paris: Our Guide to the City’s Neighbourhoods

Paris has so many diverse districts, it can be challenging to decide which one to call home. From the former bohemian haunts of Montparnasse and Montmartre to the hip 9th and 11th districts, here is a brief guide to the neighbourhoods of Paris where you might want to live, outlining their personalities, the approximate cost of rent and each one’s pros and cons.

Note: Paris is a very safe city. There are very few areas we would suggest you avoid completely. However, a section of the city which is a bit rough around the edges is the east side of 18th district and the west side of the 19th, from the Boulevard Barbès to the Canal de l’Ourcq, which is the area a few blocks on either side of the Gare du Nord train tracks.

Approximate Rent Guide

This is an estimated rent scale for a 18-22 sq m studio apartment or good flat share. There are also deals to be had and size plays a factor. There can be good deals to be had around the whole city, so these are just a general guideline! Great small flats under the rafters (called chambre de bonne) can be found even in the poshest districts!

$ 600Є – 700Є
$$ 700Є – 800Є
$$$ 800Є – 900Є
$$$$ 900Є – 1000Є
$$$$$ 1000Є +

Close to our Paris Campus

Montparnasse (Left Bank: South 6th, 14th and East 15th Arrondissements)

Once working class, this area south of Saint Germain became popular with the Lost Generation writers and avant-garde artists of the first have of the 20th century. Although the district has lost some of its bohemian spirit, the area’s historic art studios and Art Deco cafés remain a testament to its golden age.

Pros: Walking distance to our Paris campus, demographically mixed, safe and welcoming
Cons: Not the bohemian neighbourhood it once was
Rent: $-$$$

Latin Quarter (Left Bank: 5th Arrondissement)

This district south of Ile-de-la-Cité and Notre Dame is the traditional heart of academic Paris. Home to several campuses of the University of Paris and other academic institutions, in certain areas there is a young and lively vibe. That said, due to its central location, and attractive historic buildings, few students can actually afford to live here.

Pros: Historic, student vibe, walking distance to our Paris campus
Cons: Pricier, lacking local flavour in certain areas
Rent: $$-$$$$

Saint Germain-Odéon (Left Bank: North 6th Arrondissement)

Popular with early 20th century writers and artists, this neighborhood has since become very posh. Penniless writers have been replaced with well-healed Parisians, art galleries and expensive cafés and restaurants. Residents have the advantage of the lovely Luxembourg Gardens and the banks of the Seine.

Pros: Historic, chic, central, walking distance to our Paris campus
Cons: Expensive, not such a young atmosphere
Rent: $$$$$

Local & Hip Areas

SoPi and Canal St-Martin (Right Bank: 9th and 10th Arrondissements)

These two neighbourhoods in the centre-north of the city are good options for having a lively ambiance and being relatively affordable. Sopi (South Pigalle) has hip local hangouts, modern restaurants and small designer shops. These are also found over towards the Canal St-Martin which is somewhat edgier and has the plus of the pretty waterway to stroll or study alongside.

Pros: Local, lively, good transit links, close to Gare du Nord and the Eurostar
Cons: Would have to take the métro or bike to campus
Rent: $$-$$$

Oberkampf-St-Maur (Right Bank: 11th Arrondissement)

Over the past two decades this hip and local neighbourhood has seen a boom in cool coffee shops, small designer shops and innovative restaurants. It’s a great base for feeling a part of today’s Paris, although you might enjoy it so much you won’t want to leave the neighborhood to explore other districts!

Pros: Very local, great hangouts, cool residents
Cons: Would have to take the métro or bike to campus and other Paris sites
Rent: $$

Belleville and Père-Lachaise (Right Bank: 19th and 20th Arrondissements)

The hub of the city’s current bohemian community, these neighbourhoods in the northeast of the city offer affordable rents and a true local experience. Cheap shopping and dining, lively nightlife, a relaxed ambiance, art studios and lovely parks with views add to its appeal.

Pros: Very local and current bohemian
Cons: Would have to take the métro or bike most places
Rent: $-$$

Montorgueil-Sentier-Les Halles (Right Bank: 1st and 2nd Arrondissements)

The heart of Paris, this very central zone of the city used to house Paris’s former fresh food market. Today it is home to the city’s largest transit hub at Chatelet-Les-Halles station, making it easy to get around either on public transportation or on foot. In recent times the area has seen a resurgence, especially around Rue Montorgueil and the Sentier district which is home to trendy eateries, bars and boutiques.

Pros: Hip, convenient
Cons: Can be a little “shady” around rue St-Denis, and a little “dead” closer to La Bourse
Rent: $$$ – $$$$

Charming & Historic Areas

Montmartre (Right Bank: 18th Arrondissement)

A former village once on the outskirts of the city, this hilly neighborhood attracted Impressionist and early Modernist artists thanks to its cheap rents, cafés, cabarets and joie de vivre atmosphere. While it has lost some of its authenticity, if you drift away from Sacré-Coeur and its flocks of tourists, you’ll find the soul of the district, especially prevalent behind the hill and towards the arrondissement’s city hall, where rents are also more reasonable.

Pros: Beautiful narrow streets, views of the city, charm, lively vibe, close to SoPi
Cons: Some areas are pricy and touristy, would have to take the métro or bike to campus and other Paris sites
Rent: $$-$$$$

Le Marais (Right Bank: 3rd and 4th Arrondissements)

One of the most historic districts of the city, this central neighborhood, north of Ile Saint-Louis and the Seine, has undergone a chic transformation over the last few decades (though its architecture is exceptionally pre-Haussmannian). It has charming squares, pretty parks, excellent museums (Picasso, Carnavalet) and a trendy section in the north part of the district. The city’s LGBTQ community revolves around rue du Temple and rue des Archives where you’ll find many bars and a vibrant atmosphere. This is also one of the historic homes of Paris’ Ashkenazi Jewish community (mostly centred around the rue des Rosiers). However, local residents are becoming few and far between and along with their disappearance were local food shops and bakeries, which you’ll have to walk a few blocks to find.

Pros: Central, trendy, beautiful and historic. LGTBQ hub
Cons: Increasingly expensive, losing its local personality and becoming a shopping/chic tourist district
Rent: $$$$

Orsay-Les Invalides-la Tour Eiffel (Left Bank: 7th Arrondissement)

Although parts of the 7th district are very close to our Paris campus, this chic neighborhood is on the quiet side. Its streets are mostly filled with embassies, government buildings and museums (like the Orsay and Rodin). There are more vibrant areas, such as rue de Bac, which is a bit of a foodie street, rue de Sèvres and rue de l’Université (pictured above).

Pros: Elegant, eastern part walking distance to our Paris campus
Cons: Pricey, sleepy
Rent: $$$$$

Other Areas of the City

The Louvre/Opera area is central, and home to lots of fabulous Asian eateries (grouped around la rue Sainte-Anne), but is quite business focused. The 12th, 13th and 15th are pleasant and charming neighbourhoods, however, they are a touch on the sleepier side. The Batignolles district of the 17th is trendy, though not very central. The 16th is known for being the most expensive, family-friendly arrondissement.

There are also many pleasant neighbourhoods just outside of the “périphérique” (the ring road around Paris) – though some have reputations for being less pleasant – so we recommend doing research before committing to something outside of the city.

Accommodation Websites and Rental Advice

Please see the accommodation section (starting on page 8) of our Getting Started Guide with detailed information and websites to help with your accommodation search.

From History to Writing, Our Favorite Paris Podcasts

Over the past few years podcasts have become increasingly popular. They are a wonderful way to learn or enrich yourself while on the go or multitasking. This flourishing has also led to a rise in Paris podcasts, ranging from history to current affairs and from French lessons to tips from writers. The following podcasts are ideal for prepping for living in Paris, discovering insightful things about its history and learning how to navigate the city.

Paris History and Current Life

The Earful Tower

Hosted by Paris-based Australian Oliver Gee, every week this podcast focuses on a France or Paris related subject ranging from Parisian doorways to unusual vocabulary. The show often has special guests who add their thoughts on that week’s topic. It’s a fun and engaging way to learn about Paris as well as the trials, tribulations and joys of living in the City of Light.

Paname

Created by actress, comedian and tour guide Amber Minogue, this podcast, bearing the nickname Parisians have for the city, covers a secret, lesser known topic in each episode. Well researched and presented in an engaging manner, it’s a deeper dive into Parisian history and important figures which have left their mark on the capital. Subjects have included Cardinal Richelieu, the guillotine, the Bastille prison and more offbeat topics like haunted chairs or immortal clockmakers.

Mapping Paris

Our cohorts at the University of London Institute in Paris have created this podcast which is produced by students pursuing its Urban History & Culture MA. “An auditory adventure of Paris”, each episode provides a new perspective on the sites of Paris and broadens listeners understanding of what Paris is today. The short episodes make for the perfect cultural break while in transit, perhaps to our Paris School!

The New Paris

If you are interest in learning more about today’s Paris, then tune into this podcast hosted by writers Lindsey Tramuta and Alice Cavanagh, The show is an audio extension of Lindsey’s book of the same name. Each episode covers a specific subject relating to how Paris is evolving in the 21st century and usually involves a special guest, from restaurant owners to writers.

Paris Underground Radio

Launched in autumn 2021, this is a great new Paris podcast network which brings together 12 podcasts on a range of topics including food and wine, real estate, events and history. If you’re looking for unique things to do in Paris, you might like to check out Don’t Miss This, a weekly show released on Sundays and showcasing cool events, exhibitions and more. For exploring the city, listen in to Paris Cachée, a show investigating hidden sites with fascinating or unusual history. For tips on understanding the French through language, listen to Navigating the French.

Writing & Creativity

Right to Write – Paris

This podcast interviews the writers who participate in the Paris Writers Group held every month at the American Church. They provide insight into writing strategies and discusses how they’ve found inspiration in the City of Light, a place which has inspired so many great writers over the years. You can focus on your own writing my pursuing our Master’s in Creative Writing in Paris.

The Feminist Book Chat Podcast

This bi-monthly podcast was born out of an in-person book club held founded by Lou Binns and Camille Lou at the famous Shakespeare & Company bookstore. Each episode revolves around a range of subjects from feminist literature to BIPOC feminism and queer culture.

La Vie Creative

Hosted by American expat and photographer Krystal Kenney, this podcast focuses on creatives in Paris and how the city inspires creativity. The weekly episodes feature artists, designers, writers and other personalities in Paris. She also hosts a side podcast, “History with a Hemingway”, co-hosted by Claudine Hemingway, a relative of Ernest Hemingway.

Learning French

Coffee Break French

This podcast is hosted by Mark, a Scottish native who teaches French, and is a great match for beginners. Mark helps makes French less daunting with his interactive lessons which cover useful basic vocabulary, grammar and more. It’s a fun way to get started with learning French!

Français authentique

If you already have a foundation of the French language, then try this podcast, hosted by Frenchman Johan. Each episode covers a different theme such as improving one’s pronunciation, expressions and language learning tips. They are also available in video form with French subtitles.

Happy Listening everyone!

Top Historic Literary Cafés of the Left Bank

Since the Age of Enlightenment, cafés became a popular meeting place of intellectuals and writers. This was especially the case over the course of the 20^th century when the waterholes of la Rive Gauche developed legendary statues thanks to the literary greats who graced their tables. Although these literary cafés of the Left Bank no longer attract bohemian scribes like they did in bygone days, they are still worth making a pilgrimage to for current day writers and literary fans.

Le Procope

Considering the oldest café in Paris, this Left Bank institution has been welcoming intellectuals virtually since it opened in 1686. Thanks to the arrival of the Comédie Francaise theatre across the street in 1689, French playwrights, writers and philosophers naturally gravitated here. These include Condorcet, La Harpe, Voltaire, Rousseau and Diderot, who is thought to have worked on his famous Encyclopaedia at the café. More restaurant than café today, the classic establishment still has Voltaire’s favourite table, located on the first floor.

Les Deux Magots. Photo: Cheng-en Cheng / CC

Les Deux Magots

One of the most famous cafés in Paris, if not the world, this classic institution was originally a fabrics and novelty shop which was converted into a café in 1884. It’s growing popularity with Lost Generation writers like Ernest Hemingway and James Joyce led the café to start its own literary prize in 1933. Writers continued to gravitated to it over decades including Bertolt Brecht and Vladimir Nabokov, who mentioned it in his 1955 novel Lolita.

Le Café de Flore

Opened during the café boom of the 1880s, this iconic St-Germain café, and staunch rival of its neighbour Les Deux Magots, acted as the unofficial headquarters of existentialism philosophers Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir for decades. Earlier in the century it was also a favorite of Apollinaire and Salmon, who worked on their arts review, Les Soirées de Paris, at the café. Albert Camus and poet Jacques Prévert could also found inspiration here.

La Closerie Des Lilas

Along with St-Germain, the Montparnasse district was another literary hub of the first half of the 20th century. This historic café, opened in the 1860s, first attracted avant-garde artists before drawing in both French and foreign writers. French poets Paul Verlaine, Charles Baudelaire and Max Jacob could often be found here, pen or glass in hand. In their various eras one might encounter Samuel Beckett, Oscar Wilde, Fitzgerald and Henry Miller at its tables, however, it was Hemingway who frequented the venue the most. It’s said that he read Fitzgerald’s manuscript of The Great Gatsby here, he likely worked on The Sun Also Rises and the café is described in his memoir, A Moveable Feast.

La Rotonde

Another literary haunt of the Montparnasse district, and around the corner from our Paris School, this café used to be so popular that Hemingway wrote in The Sun Also Rises that, “no matter what cafe in Montparnasse you ask a taxi driver to bring you to from the right bank of the river, they always take you to the Rotonde.” In literary circles you could find Fitzgerald, T.S. Eliot and Gertrude Stein here as well as those in the art scene like Picasso, Modigliani and Cocteau. More recently, President Emmanuel Macron chose to celebrate his 2017 Presidential victory here, adding another chapter to the legendary café’s storied history.

Photo courtesy of Café Tournon

Café Tournon

On the other side of the Luxembourg gardens, this unassuming neighbourhood café became a meeting place for the next generation of writers. In the 1950s one could find James Baldwin, Richard Wright, Chester Himes and William Gardner Smith debating around its tables over an afternoon coffee. The café also served as the early base of the staff and writers of the literary magazine The Paris Review.

Looking for inspiration for your own writing in Paris? Advance your craft by undertaking our Master’s in Creative Writing in Paris offered at our campus in the Montparnasse district.