Monthly Archives: March 2023

street art in Paris 75013

Our Guide to the 13th Arrondissement, beyond la Bibliothèque nationale

Many of our Kent Paris School students will be spending a good deal of time at la Bibliothèque nationale, France’s National Library, especially as they work on their final papers and dissertations. But if you want to take a break from your research, Paris’ large 13th district has plenty of gems to discover. From street art to Chinatown and from former villages to thought-provoking contemporary architecture, here are our favourite things to do in the 13th: 

Station F and La Félicità

Just next to the Library is the large co-working venue, Station F. Located within a former rail freight depot dating from 1927, since 2017 it has been home to the world’s biggest start-up “campus” or incubator. Many of the dynamic creatives who work there drift over to the restaurant part of the complex, La Felicità, a massive Italian food emporium where you can find great coffee, dine in a former train car or sip aperitivo on its terrace at the end of a long day. 

Cité de la Mode et Design Paris

Photo Credit: Cité de la Mode et Design

Paris Rive Gauche – Contemporary Architecture District

The 13th has positioned itself as a cluster of innovation – evidenced not only through the high concentration of start-ups, but also through its rapidly evolving architecture. Throwing off the Haussmannian rigidity, the 13th arrondissement contains a particularly rich collection of exciting contemporary buildings just to the east of the Bibliothèque nationale. Called Paris Rive Gauche, the district has a mix of residential, office and university buildings. You can explore these thanks to this useful article (in English) available on the Paris City Hall website.

port de la gare parisPort de la Gare

On the quais just in front of the Bibliothèque nationale is one of the nicest – and coolest – sections of the Seine river banks within Paris. The pedestrian walkway is the perfect place to stretch your legs during a study break, for a picnic in balmy weather or to end your day. Its floating bars (known as péniches in French), including one on an old-fashioned boat, are very popular with eastend Parisians. From late spring to late summer, and especially on weekends, these péniches expand with quai-side seating and activities. There is also a CROUS (university canteen serving low-cost meals), the Le Cafétéria Pont supérieur, inside one of the barges. 

Passerelle Simone-de-Beauvoir. Photo: AHert / CC

Passerelle Simone de Beauvoir

The newest of Paris’s 37 bridges, the footbridge was inaugurated in 2006 and named in honour of France’s great feminist philosopher and writer. It was designed by Feichtinger Architectes and constructed by the Eiffel company (yes, Gustave Eiffel’s company lives on to this day!). You can gaze up at the bridge from the Port or access it from the Library’s esplanade. Looking west, from the bridge you have a great view of the Pont de Bercy where métro line 6 zips by every few minutes. 

Street Art

Over the last decade or so, the 13th has come to boast one of the highest concentrations of street art. Today the district’s large tower buildings are decorated with over 50 murals as well as scores of smaller works by French and international artists like Obey, Inti and C215. Although these are scattered around the 13th, you can see many larger ones as you walk down Boulevard Vincent Auriol and see smaller works around Les Buttes aux Cailles (see below). You can locate them with the help of this interactive map and you can learn more about top Parisian street artists in this blog post.

Butte-aux-Cailles

A stone’s throw from both Chinatown and busy Place d’Italie is one of the loveliest of Paris’s former villages. Once a small hamlet on the outskirts of the city, the Butte-aux-Cailles gradually became associated with the Parisian working class. Luckily, the neighbourhood escaped Haussmann architectural injunctions. Today, the quartier is lined with restaurants and bars popular with students from nearby campuses. A favourite neighbourhood haunt is Le temps des cérises, a cooperative-model bistrot. Opened in 1976, the bistro’s menu, prices, and operating model pay hommage to the working class (and the bistro’s name, the Time of Cherries, is a nod to the Paris Commune of 1871). Read more in our guide to the former villages of Paris at this link.

Les Olympiades, Jean-François Gornet

Chinatown

A section of the centre of the 13th district, the area around the modern high-rises of Les Olympiades, is well-known for its bustling Chinatown. The largest Chinatown in Europe, this can be found between Avenue d’Ivry, Avenue de Choisy and Boulevard Masséna. You can learn more about its history, as well as dining recommendations, in our guide to Paris’s Chinatowns.

Le Château de la Reine Blanche 

Le Château de la Reine Blanche. Siren-Com / CC

Le Château de la Reine Blanche 

The Château de la Reine Blanche, or Castle of the White Queen, (6 Rue Gustave Geffroy, 75013) is one of the arrondissement’s hidden gems. The structure dates back to 1290 and takes its name from Blanche de France who inherited the manor house from her mother. Parts of the building are from the 14th and 15th century. Today the castle is privately owned and unfortunately rarely open to the public (except on the Journées du Patrimoine held in mid September), but you can still view it from the street. Discover other lesser known medieval sites in Paris in this article.

Square René Le Gall

photo: Sonia Yassa/ Ville de Paris

Square René Le Gall

The 13th arrondissement does not have an abundance of parks, but this pretty one is tucked away on a side street near the Château de la Reine Blanche. The Square René Le Gall is located next to where the Bièvre River once flowed, Paris’s second river that only exists underground now within the city limits. The park was built over a land mass in a fork of the river previously called Monkey Island; a little stream runs through the garden, tracing the path of the semi-defunct river. The perfect place to read on a sunny day, the park has some rose arbors, a quirky obelisque, fruit trees, sycamores and a huge Indian chestnut tree planted in 1894.

Renowned French Women Artists & Where to See their Art in Paris

All too frequently overshadowed by their male counterparts, women artists have gradually carved out their rightful place on France’s art scene. This foundation was laid by courageous women artists of the late-19th century, with more following little by little over the course of the 19th and into the 20th century. Here are ten of the most renowned artists who helped pave the way for today’s generation of women artists in France.

Portrait of Marie Antoinette, Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun © Château de Versailles, Dist. RMN : © Christophe Fouin

Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun (1755-1842)

Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun was one of the most renowned artists of the end of the 18th and first half of the 19th century. A child prodigy, her talent for drawing was noticed at a young age by her father, a pastel artist, who let her dabble with his supplies. After several years at a convent school, she began an apprenticeship with an artist. A professional artist by age 14, within only a few years she began painting high-level aristocrats and she was one of the first women accepted into a French painting academy, or guild. Her work soon attracted the attention of the royal court (then looking to rehabilitate the Queen’s reputation); she became the Queen’s official portraitist and painted her over thirty times. Fleeing during the Revolution, she was able to return to her artistic career under the Napoleonic regime.

Where to see her art: Musée du Louvre (French Painting Department), Versailles (le Petit Trianon)

Portrait de Rosa Bonheur dans son atelier au château de By
©Chateau de Rosa Bonheur

Rosa Bonheur (1822-1899)

Also the daughter of an artist father, Rosa Bonheur’s love of animal paintings began as a child and continued throughout her career. She studied animals in the suburbs of Paris, the Bois de Boulogne and the National Veterinary Institute. Bonheur’s first major success was Ploughing in the Nivernais, on display at the Musée d’Orsay, and was awarded a gold medal in 1849. Adored by the US market, Bonheur was the first female French artist to be awarded the Legion of Honour.

Where to see her art: Musée d’Orsay, Chateau de Rosa Bonheur (near Fontainebleau)

Le jardin à Bougival (1884) Berthe Morisot, and top image: Self-Portrait (1889), Berthe Morisot, both Musée Marmatton-Monet

Berthe Morisot (1841-1895)

A rebellious artist from her early days, Berthe began painting alongside her sister. A close friend of Édouard Manet, the two exchanged frequently on art; Morisot would later marry his brother. She was one of the founding members of les “Artistes Anonymes Associés,” a group of innovative artists including Claude Monet, Auguste Renoir, Alfred Sisley, Camille Pissarro, and Edgar Degas who would later be called the impressionists. Today her work features in many of the world’s most prestigious museums.

Where to see her art: Musée d’Orsay and the Musée Marmottan-Monet

The Blue Room (1923), Centre Pompidou – Musée National d’Art Moderne

Suzanne Valadon (1865-1938)

Interested in drawing as a child, Marie-Clémentine Valadon, later called Suzanne, came from a poor family and was obligated to begin work aged 11. After an accident at the circus where she was an acrobatist, she started modeling for artists including Berthe Morisot, Renoir, Degas and Toulouse-Lautrec. These encounters encouraged her to pursue her own artistic career. Known for her bold nudes as well as portraits, still lifes, and landscape, she became the first woman painter admitted to the Société nationale des Beaux-Arts. Valadon and her son, the notable painter Maurice Utrillo, are celebrated at the Montmartre Museum, part of which comprises their former studio.

Where to see her art: Musée d’Orsay, Centre Pompidou and Musée de Montmartre

Marie Laurencin

La Répétition (1936), Marie Laurencin, Centre Pompidou
Marie Laurencin (1883-1956)

A multi-talented artist born in Paris, Marie Laurencin got her start in art by learning the trade of porcelain painting at the École de Sèvres before she moved on to the Académie Humbert. It was here where she met Braque and Picabia, steering her in the direction of modernism. A fauvist before becoming a prominent cubist, Laurencin became a popular society portraitist after the Great War. She also dabbled in theatre set design and costumes.

Where to see her art: Musée de l’Orangerie and Centre Pompidou

Louise Bourgeois, Spider

Louise Bourgeois, Spider (Araignée) (1995). Don de la SAMAM en 1995 © The Easton Foundation / ADAGP, Paris 2020 / Julien Vidal / Parisienne de Photographie

Louise Bourgeois (1911 – 2010)

One of the most renowned artists of the 20th century, Louise Bourgeois might be best known for her large-scale sculpture and installation art, however, her work evolved dramatically over her long career. After her mother’s death, Bourgeois abandoned the study of maths to pursue art, first at the École des Beaux-Arts and the École du Louvre, before moving on to independent academies in Montparnasse and Montmartre. It was after moving to New York with her husband, an art scholar, in the late 1930s that her career and individual style began to flourish, especially when she joined the American Abstract Artists Group in the 1950s.

 Where to see her art: Centre Pompidou and the Modern Art Museum of the City of Paris

Clement Dorval / Ville de Paris

Stravinksy Fountain ( 1983), Niki de Saint Phalle, Photo: Clement Dorval / Ville de Paris

Niki de Saint-Phalle (1930-2002) 

Born in France and raised in the United States, Niki de Saint-Phalle is best remembered for her monumental, curvaceous and colourful sculptures. Nevertheless, Saint-Phalle was also a painter, filmmaker and illustrator. The self-taught artist portrayed her traumatic childhood through violent assemblages shot by firearms, which caught the attention of the international art world. She collaborated with other notable artists like Jasper Johns, Robert Rauschenberg and Jean Tinguely. Her sculptural commissions decorate public spaces around the world. In Paris, her most notable work on display is the colourful, nouveau realist Stravinksky Fountain created with her husband Jean Tinguely in 1983.  

Where to see her art: Centre Pompidou.

Sophie Calle, Gallerie Perrotin (75003)

Sophie Calle, Gallerie Perrotin, Paris

Sophie Calle (1953- )

Born in the Parisian suburb of Malakoff and raised in the South of France, Sophie Calle is one of the most prominent living artists on the international art stage. A globe-trotting feminist activist in her youth, Calle returned to Paris and turned towards art. Known for her very personal work exploring identity, Calle crisscrosses genres from writing to photography and from installation work to conceptual art. She frequently exhibits in contemporary art galleries around the world. 

Where to see her art: Gallerie Perrotin (75003)

LorenzoBarone

Graduate Profile: Art Gallery Director Lorenzo Barone

In the latest edition of our Graduate Profile series, we are pleased to introduce an alumnus who is still living in Paris. Originally from Italy, Lorenzo Barone came to Paris to pursue our History and Philosophy of Art Master’s Degree Programme, the first step to broadening his horizons and career path in the Paris and international art scene. Learn more about Lorenzo and his current activities in our interview.

Where are you from and what originally brought you to Paris?

I first came to Paris to study at PSAC in order to raise the level ofmy education in an international foreign language like English, as wellas learn a new language like French, and live in a wonderfulinternational capital as Paris.

What attracted you most about studying at PSAC?

What attracted me the most was the difference between PSAC’suniversity approach and my past experiences in Italy. More concretely,the debate and free exchange of ideas between professors and students,which I firmly believe is a more solid method for the academicmaturation of the students.

What were some of the highlights of your experience?

Not only is the environment magical at PSAC, where you can reallybreathe history, but I also had the opportunity to express mystudy proposals, and my creativity in front of professors and alumniduring lectures and events. The best moment? The tango lessons!

What are you currently doing and how did that come about?

Right now, I am director of the PIGMENT art gallery in Paris. Ibecame director after several internships in art galleries in Paris andworking in an international gallery in Milan as an in-house curator andlogistic manager.

Do you think that your studies at PSAC helped with your career orcreative endeavours?

Absolutely. The open-mindedness, the language, together withextensive studies, and the support of professors toward my interest incontemporary art, what I call “living art,” allowed me to develop acreative sense and rigorous approach, now indispensable in my work. Butalso, the contemporary poetry course, has spurred me to keep expressingmyself creatively and keep writing!

Would you recommend PSAC to potential students and if so what would you tell them?

I would absolutely recommend PSAC to all students who want tocontinue an excellent education in a stimulating environment and amagnificent city that offers not only culture but opportunities forcreative self-expression. If I had to give advice to future students, itwould be to not only think about getting an excellent education, but tomake the most of everything that staying at PSAC can offer, because thetime is not only books and classes, but human and cultural relationshipsthrough the city and events!

Merci Beaucoup, Lorenzo!

You can connect with Lorenzo on LinkedIn or Instagram. Learn more about PIGMENT art gallery and its exhibits on its website or Instagram.