Tag Archives: Chinatown

street art in Paris 75013

Our Guide to the 13th Arrondissement, beyond la Bibliothèque nationale

Many of our Kent Paris School students will be spending a good deal of time at la Bibliothèque nationale, France’s National Library, especially as they work on their final papers and dissertations. But if you want to take a break from your research, Paris’ large 13th district has plenty of gems to discover. From street art to Chinatown and from former villages to thought-provoking contemporary architecture, here are our favourite things to do in the 13th: 

Station F and La Félicità

Just next to the Library is the large co-working venue, Station F. Located within a former rail freight depot dating from 1927, since 2017 it has been home to the world’s biggest start-up “campus” or incubator. Many of the dynamic creatives who work there drift over to the restaurant part of the complex, La Felicità, a massive Italian food emporium where you can find great coffee, dine in a former train car or sip aperitivo on its terrace at the end of a long day. 

Cité de la Mode et Design Paris

Photo Credit: Cité de la Mode et Design

Paris Rive Gauche – Contemporary Architecture District

The 13th has positioned itself as a cluster of innovation – evidenced not only through the high concentration of start-ups, but also through its rapidly evolving architecture. Throwing off the Haussmannian rigidity, the 13th arrondissement contains a particularly rich collection of exciting contemporary buildings just to the east of the Bibliothèque nationale. Called Paris Rive Gauche, the district has a mix of residential, office and university buildings. You can explore these thanks to this useful article (in English) available on the Paris City Hall website.

port de la gare parisPort de la Gare

On the quais just in front of the Bibliothèque nationale is one of the nicest – and coolest – sections of the Seine river banks within Paris. The pedestrian walkway is the perfect place to stretch your legs during a study break, for a picnic in balmy weather or to end your day. Its floating bars (known as péniches in French), including one on an old-fashioned boat, are very popular with eastend Parisians. From late spring to late summer, and especially on weekends, these péniches expand with quai-side seating and activities. There is also a CROUS (university canteen serving low-cost meals), the Le Cafétéria Pont supérieur, inside one of the barges. 

Passerelle Simone-de-Beauvoir. Photo: AHert / CC

Passerelle Simone de Beauvoir

The newest of Paris’s 37 bridges, the footbridge was inaugurated in 2006 and named in honour of France’s great feminist philosopher and writer. It was designed by Feichtinger Architectes and constructed by the Eiffel company (yes, Gustave Eiffel’s company lives on to this day!). You can gaze up at the bridge from the Port or access it from the Library’s esplanade. Looking west, from the bridge you have a great view of the Pont de Bercy where métro line 6 zips by every few minutes. 

Street Art

Over the last decade or so, the 13th has come to boast one of the highest concentrations of street art. Today the district’s large tower buildings are decorated with over 50 murals as well as scores of smaller works by French and international artists like Obey, Inti and C215. Although these are scattered around the 13th, you can see many larger ones as you walk down Boulevard Vincent Auriol and see smaller works around Les Buttes aux Cailles (see below). You can locate them with the help of this interactive map and you can learn more about top Parisian street artists in this blog post.

Butte-aux-Cailles

A stone’s throw from both Chinatown and busy Place d’Italie is one of the loveliest of Paris’s former villages. Once a small hamlet on the outskirts of the city, the Butte-aux-Cailles gradually became associated with the Parisian working class. Luckily, the neighbourhood escaped Haussmann architectural injunctions. Today, the quartier is lined with restaurants and bars popular with students from nearby campuses. A favourite neighbourhood haunt is Le temps des cérises, a cooperative-model bistrot. Opened in 1976, the bistro’s menu, prices, and operating model pay hommage to the working class (and the bistro’s name, the Time of Cherries, is a nod to the Paris Commune of 1871). Read more in our guide to the former villages of Paris at this link.

Les Olympiades, Jean-François Gornet

Chinatown

A section of the centre of the 13th district, the area around the modern high-rises of Les Olympiades, is well-known for its bustling Chinatown. The largest Chinatown in Europe, this can be found between Avenue d’Ivry, Avenue de Choisy and Boulevard Masséna. You can learn more about its history, as well as dining recommendations, in our guide to Paris’s Chinatowns.

Le Château de la Reine Blanche 

Le Château de la Reine Blanche. Siren-Com / CC

Le Château de la Reine Blanche 

The Château de la Reine Blanche, or Castle of the White Queen, (6 Rue Gustave Geffroy, 75013) is one of the arrondissement’s hidden gems. The structure dates back to 1290 and takes its name from Blanche de France who inherited the manor house from her mother. Parts of the building are from the 14th and 15th century. Today the castle is privately owned and unfortunately rarely open to the public (except on the Journées du Patrimoine held in mid September), but you can still view it from the street. Discover other lesser known medieval sites in Paris in this article.

Square René Le Gall

photo: Sonia Yassa/ Ville de Paris

Square René Le Gall

The 13th arrondissement does not have an abundance of parks, but this pretty one is tucked away on a side street near the Château de la Reine Blanche. The Square René Le Gall is located next to where the Bièvre River once flowed, Paris’s second river that only exists underground now within the city limits. The park was built over a land mass in a fork of the river previously called Monkey Island; a little stream runs through the garden, tracing the path of the semi-defunct river. The perfect place to read on a sunny day, the park has some rose arbors, a quirky obelisque, fruit trees, sycamores and a huge Indian chestnut tree planted in 1894.

Exploring Paris’s Chinatown(s)

Over the centuries, people from around the world have come to Paris, leading to a number of cosmopolitan neighbourhoods around the city. Among these are three different Chinatowns, two of which are more prominent. Although they tend to lack some of the charm of the Chinatowns in cities like London, New York, San Fransisco or Vancouver, they are abound in colours, flavours and life. Enjoy a sensorial visit to the Chinatowns of Paris thanks to these useful tips.

Study Abroad in Paris

Rue au Maire. Photo: Ralf Treinen / CC

Arts-et-Métiers

The city’s original Chinatown is found in pocket of the 3rd arrondissement. As the traditional wholesale clothing district of the city, some Chinese, particularly from Wenzhou, settled in the area. Not too much is still visible today, however, around the City Hall of the district (la Mairie du 3ème) some Chinese shops and restaurants can be found on rue au Maire, rue Volta, rue du Temple and rue des Gravilliers.

Photo: Le Président

Belleville

Traditionally working class, rebellious and artistic, the neighbourhood of Belleville is likely Paris’s biggest melting pots. Along the bustling Boulevard de Belleville one can find North African hookah lounges, Jewish delis and Asian supermarkets. Asians first started settling here due to the establishment of French territories of Indochina (modern-day Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos) in the second half of the 1800s. Immigrants for China also settled in the area before the establishment of Les Olympiades (see below).

The area’s most famous restaurant is Le Président, a vast Cantonese restaurant presiding over the intersection at métro Belleville (closed for renovations until December 2021). For great Vietnamese pho or bobun, grab a table at Chez Yu and vegetarians might want to track down Best Tofu, a small casual joint packed with Asian diners (best for lunch as it closes at 8pm). There are also two branches of the popular Chinese supermarket Paris Store, found on Boulevard de la Villette, the northern extension of Boulevard de Belleville.

Paris Olympiades. Photo: Thierry Bézecourt / CC

Les Olympiades

The more active heart of the Chinese community in Paris is located in the Olympiades district of the 13th arrondissement. Europe’s largest Chinatown, in terms of size, while it isn’t necessarily the most typically picturesque Parisian district, due to its 1970s high-rises, it’s still a vibrant neighbourhood and is also historically significant to the evolution of the city.

As Paris was modernising in the 20th century, the former factories of the 13th district began closing down. This left way for new development, which was undertaken by architect Michel Holley. Strongly influenced by Le Corbusier, he created a neighbourhood of eight 104-metre high apartment towers around a central plaza. Totally almost 3,000 flats, the new district was unpopular with Parisians, however, at the time there was an influx in migrants from the disintegrating Indochina territories, who ended up settling here in Les Olympiades.

Enjoy a wander within the triangle formed by Avenue d’Ivry, Avenue de Choisy and Boulevard Masséna. Make sure you explore the La Pagode shopping mall, located in the centre of the Les Olympiades esplanade. Here you’ll find shops selling Asian knick-knacks, goods and food as well as casual eateries with plastic stools just like in Hanoi.

For sights, try to find the Hidden Buddhist Temple which is located in the a car park at 37 rue du Disque, there is also a Taoist temple at 44 avenue d’Ivry, which you can pop into by removing your shoes. A stop in at one of the famous Tang Frères supermarkets is also a must. Founded in 1976 by brothers from Laos, the large shops sell good value pan-Asian food. While we don’t recommend eating there, you might smile at seeing the area’s McDonald’s, at 9-11 Avenue de Choisy, which has an Asian look.

For a meal instead enjoy some excellent Vietnamese soup at Pho Bành Cuon 14, dig into some tasty and reasonably priced southeast Asian food at Lao Lane Xang 2, or have a traditional Chinese meal at Li Ka Fo. For something on the go, track down Thieng Heng, for an authentic Vietnamese banh mi sandwich, or some bubble tea at Bubble House.

If you’re in Paris at the right time of year, try to visit the neighbourhood is for the New Year Lunar celebrations. During this annually changing period, taking place at the end of January or early February, the streets are decked out in banners and lanterns and a lively parade is held.

We hope you enjoy your cultural and culinary explorations! You may like to pair an outing the Les Olympiades with the nearby Butte-aux-Cailles, which is included in this article on the Former Villages of Paris.

Then if you’re looking for further places to discover in Paris, check out these other articles from our blog:

Top Image: Chinese New Year in Paris. Georges Seguin (Okki) / CC