Category Archives: Paris History

Exploring the Passages Couverts of Paris

The rainy days of early spring don’t mean that you can’t enjoy a slow stroll around Paris and indulge in the Parisian tradition of the Flâneur thanks to Paris’ many 19th-century passages couverts.

These glass-roofed covered shopping arcades and galleries are often lined with boutiques and bistros and were the precursor to the modern shopping mall. At a time when streets were made of dirt and poorly organised, the advent of these passages couverts revolutionised the way people shopped and roamed the city.  They also quickly found their place in literature and scholarly analyses. Some of the best known examples are Emile Zola’s Therese Raquin, Honoré de Balzac’s Illusions perdues, and Walter Benjamin’s final and unfinished Passagen-werk (Arcades Project).

Mostly a product of the first half of the 19th century, there were close to two-hundred covered passages by the 1860s, though only twenty-five have survived into the twenty-first century. The 2nd Arrondissement has the highest concentration of passages couverts but they can be found hidden across the city if you look out for them. Here are some of our top picks to explore during the coming April Showers:

Librairie Jousseaume, Galerie Vivienne. Sortir à Paris.

Galerie Vivienne

The Galerie Vivienne is known for its elegant shops and bistros. It was designed by architect François-Jacques Delannoy and inaugurated in 1826. Forming an “L” between rue des Petits-Champs and rue Vivienne, near the Palais-Royal and across the street from the BnF Richelieu site, the gallery offers a fascinating glimpse of neo-classical architecture, with its arcades, floor mosaics and luxurious decorations. It’s home to one of the oldest bookshops in the city, Librairie Jousseaume, which has been open as long as the Galerie Vivienne itself.

Cafe Joyeux, Passage Choiseul Entrance ©JTIverson

Passage de Choiseul 

Based in the area known as Paris’s Little Tokyo near the metro Pyramides, the Passage Choiseul was once home to the controversial author Louis-Ferdinand Céline as a child in the early 20th century. The Passage Choiseul is mentioned in two of his novels: Journey to the End of the Night and Death on the Installment Plan. Now the 190-metre long shopping arcade is home to East Asian specialities. We recommend checking out Little Seoul Restaurant, Yatai Ramen, and L’Othentique Vietnam. You can also find Cafe Joyeux, a charity run cafe that employs adults with cognitive disabilities helping them develop both employability and social skills.

Lil Weasel, Passage du Grand Cerf. Paris la douce.

Passage du Grand Cerf 

The Passage du Grand Cerf is known for art, crafts, and obscure collectors shops. Lil’ Weasel is a treasure trove of creative hobby supplies with two stores in this passage, one of which is entirely dedicated to yarn. Eric et Lydie is a jewellery shop on the ground floor and an adorable café on the floor above run by a husband and wife duo. The Fika menu of herbal tea or filter coffee and a cake of the day is a must on a cold, rainy afternoon.

GARDEL BERTRAND / HEMIS.FRhemis.frHemis via AFP

Passage des Panoramas

The Passage des Panoramas is a collector’s heaven; home to stamp, coin and antique dealers it is a treasure cove of the old and rare. It’s history is as odd as its shops’ contents:

In 1799, the American shipowner James Thayer opened the Passage des Panoramas with the main purpose of improve access from the Palais Royal to the Boulevard Montmartre and attracting  customers to his panoramas, painted frescoes covering the walls of a round room, housed in purpose built towers on the Boulevard. In 1834, the architect Jean-Louis Grisart added the Galeries Saint-Marc, des Variétés, de Feydeau and de Montmartre to form a covered complex of passages. You can read more about its history here.

Passage Brady

Originally built in 1828, Passage Brady can be found between rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis and Boulevard de Strasbourg. Overflowing with ambiance and aromas, it’s lined with Indian shops and restaurants, one more tempting than the next. You can get some great deals by making a reservation at one of these on The Fork website a day or two prior, we’re rather fond of New Delhi and la Reine de Kashmir! You can read more about Paris’s Little India in this article which explores the area most known for its Indian community.

Further reading or listening:

Ayers, Andrew (2004). The architecture of Paris: an architectural guide. A. Menges

BBC. (2022). BBC Radio 4 – In Our Time, Walter Benjamin. [online]

Elkin, L. (2016). Flâneuse: Women Walk the City in Paris, New York, Tokyo, Venice and London. Random House.

Sutcliffe, Anthony (1993). Paris: an architectural history. Yale University Press.

Zola, E. (1867). Therese Raquin. Siruela.

 

Top image: francetourisme.fr

Exploring the Ruins of Roman Paris

The history of the city of Paris begins with the small Roman settlement of Lutetia (Lutèce in French) which was built on the hill that now houses the Pantheon the Montagne Sainte-Geneviève in the first century BC. Later in the Roman period the settlement relocated across the Seine to the Île de la Cité.

Paris today has very little left to remind us of its Roman past . However, there are still some signs of the ancient city hidden in the Paris we know today. We’ve put together this list of the ruins around the city that you are still able to visit.

Roman Baths

The ruins of the city’s roman baths can be found at the Musée de Cluny, although the museum itself is largely dedicated to the medieval period. Known as the Thermes de Cluny in French, they constitute about one-third of a massive bath complex that is believed to have been constructed around the beginning of the 3rd century. The best preserved room is the frigidarium, with intact architectural elements such as Gallo-Roman vaults, ribs and consoles, and fragments of original decorative wall painting and mosaics. While you’re there check out the rest of the museum, you might be inspired to search for more of medieval Paris.

Arènes de Lutèce

In the 5th arrondissement by the metro stop Place de Monge, you can find the Arènes de Lutèce (Arenas of Lutetia). These listed monuments, built between the 1st and 2nd century, were able to hold up to 15,000 people. Visitors can still see the site where the actors stood, the stage platform and lapidary parts. Today they make up part of the Place Emile Mâle, and are a popular spot for relaxing or playing football or boules on a sunny day.

The City Walls

It was in the later Roman period, after a barbarian invasion in 285AD, that many of the residents of Lutetia moved across the Seine to Île de la Cité, destroying the bridges behind them. At that time, ramparts were constructed about 7 feet high. Today, only the outline of a small section of the Roman wall can be seen at 5 Rue de la Colombe and there’s a historic plaque on the wall to mark the place.

Remains of the archaeological crypt of Ile de la Cité © Pierre Antoine

Archaeological Crypt

Beneath the Notre-Dame Cathedral square lies the archaeological crypt of Paris containing the foundations and vestiges of buildings dating from the Gallo-Roman era through to the 18th century. These remains were discovered during excavations from 1965 to 1972, and were made open to to the public in 1980. The crypt offers a unique look at the urban and architectural evolution of the Île de la Cité.

Remnants of Ancient Aqueducts

You can find a piece of the old Roman aqueduct at 42 Avenue Reille, 75014 Paris, which was discovered and dug up during construction work in the area.

To learn more about the history of Paris, head to the Musée Carnavalet

Discovering Paris’s Little India

Although it might not be as large as in some other global cities, there is a vibrant diaspora from the countries of the Indian Subcontinent in Paris. Different waves of immigration from India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka and Bangladesh arrived in France, mainly in the 20th century, after India’s Independence in 1947 and as of the 1980s as a result of Sri Lanka’s Civil War. They settled principally in the 10th arrondissement where today you can find a wonderful array of “cash and carry” food markets, good value eateries and shops displaying beautiful Indian clothing and accessories. 

Passage Brady Paris

Passage Brady

Originally built in 1828, this picturesque historic passageway has both a covered section, between rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis and Boulevard de Strasbourg, and an open air section which carries on until rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin. Overflowing with ambiance and aromas, it’s lined with Indian shops and restaurants, one more tempting than the next. You can get some great deals by making a reservation at one of these on The Fork website a day or two prior, we’re rather fond of New Delhi and la Reine de Kashmir!

 Little India

Although Passage Brady is very charming, there is a larger concentration of the Indian community in what is called “Little India,” an area located between Gare du Nord train station and métro La Chapelle. The higher you rise on rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, the more shops and restaurants you’ll pass. These continue on rue Cail, Louis-Blanc and rue Perdonnet. 

Little India is great to visit any time of year (come with an empty stomach!), however, the neighborhood truly comes to life during popular festivals like Holi (March, and another festival is taking place in the Jardin de l’Acclimatation in Bois du Boulogne on May 14), Ganesh Chaturthi (August/September, see temple information below) or Diwali (October/November).

Here are some restaurants we recommend in Little India:

  • Krishna Bhavan (24 Rue Cail, 75010): A must for vegetarians is this restaurant exclusively serving meat-free Indian cuisine. They also have a branch closer to the University in the 5th (25 Rue Galande, 75005).
  • Le Petit Veg (23 Rue Cail, 75010) – For completely vegan Indian food, come to this delicious restaurant.
  • Pondichery Restaurant (3 Rue Perdonnet, 75010) – In business since 1993, this cantine has some of the best prices in the area.
  • Muniyandi Vilas – From the outside this looks like a tiny takeaway place, however, you can also enjoy their great value and delicious Sri Lankan and South Indian specialities in their no frills dining area.

Manicka Vinayakar Alayam Temple

Built by Sri Lankan Tamils in 1985, this temple in the 18th district, north of métro La Chapelle, is dedicated to Lord Ganesha, the Hindu God of knowledge who has an elephant-like head and a human body. Lord Ganesha is celebrated during Ganesh Chaturthi, a lively festival held in August or September which includes a parade through the streets of the area and with activities at the temple.

Maison de l’Inde

Located at the Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris, the international student complex found in the south of the 14th district, la Maison de l’Inde was established in 1968. In addition to housing Indian and other international students, it organizes events open to the public throughout the year especially for traditional celebrations including the four-day Autumn Festival (Durga Puja), the Festival of Lights (Deepavali, held in October/November) and International Students’ day (Saraswati Puja).

 if you’re looking for further places to discover the multicultural facets of Paris, have a look at these other articles from our blog:

Top Photo: 15ème Fête de Ganesh, Photo: Jean-Pierre Dalbéra / Flickr

Exploring North African Heritage in Paris

Paris’ North African communities are an important and vibrant feature of the contemporary city. Links between mainland France and North Africa date back hundreds of years, though it was during – and after – France’s second colonial empire (post 1830), that North African immigrants began to permanently settle in large numbers in Paris. 

The history of French colonialism and postcolonialism is a complex one. This blog article does not endeavour to retrace that history here, though we do offer recommendations for essential further reading below.

We’ve compiled this list of places and books that will help you learn more about and understand North African heritage in Paris.

Goutte d'Or Paris

La Goutte d’Or

In the shadow of Montmartre is this thriving neighborhood and North African hub in Paris. Meaning “the Golden Drop”, bustling daily life revolves around the street of the same name, the Barbès métro and the Boulevard de la Chapelle. The latter is home to a fabulous street market, le Marché Barbès, held Wednesday and Saturday mornings. This is a great time to come and explore the area or come late afternoon during Ramadan when it is abuzz with shoppers picking up supplies for the iftar, the meal that marks the end of daily fasting.  

 

Institut des Cultures d’Islam / Facebook

Institut des Cultures d’Islam

This cultural establishment managed by the Paris City Council is found in two locations in the Goutte d’Or (19 rue Léon and 56 rue Stephenson). The multipurpose venue showcases  contemporary art exhibitions, concerts, film screenings, debates, Arab language lessons, calligraphy classes, cooking classes and other cultural activities. Many of the events are free so feel free to stop by or check out its website to see what’s on.

 

La Grande Mosque de Paris. Photo: Mosqpedia

La Grande Mosquée de Paris

The religious centre of France’s Muslim community is found in the 5th arrondissement. The oldest mosque in Paris, it was commissioned by the French State as a token of appreciation to the Muslim soldiers who fought for France in World War I and was completed in 1926. The vast complex features Moorish architecture, has a 33-metre-high minaret and a leafy courtyard where you can enjoy mint tea and North African pastry at its tea salon. It also has a renowned traditional hammam. 

Institut du Monde Arabe. Fred Romero / CC

Institut du Monde Arabe (Arab World Institute)

The Arab World Institute was founded in 1980 by France and 18 Arab countries with the aim of researching and disseminating the cultures and spiritual values of the Arab world. Located next to the Seine in the 5th arrondissement, the Institut is housed in an impressive building designed by renowned French architect Jean Nouvel and incorporates elements of Islamic architecture. In addition to an excellent museum, temporary exhibitions, it has a wonderful free library where you can study. Before leaving be sure to go up to its free access terrace on the top floor which has great views of Paris.

 

 

Literature by writers with North African roots

Literature is a great way to discover the unique perspective of Paris’s North African community. Dr Carine Fréville, who convenes our Diaspora and Exile module, recommends the following books by writers with North African roots and which are set in Paris. 

  • Kiffe Kiffe Tomorrow (US) and Just Like Tomorrow (UK) by Faïza Guène
  • The Seine was Red by Leïla Sebbar
  • With Downcast Eyes by Tahar Ben Jelloun
  • Topographie idéale pour une agression caractérisée by Rachid Boudjedra
  • Lullaby and The Perfect Nanny by Leïla Slimani
  • Tea in the Harem by Medhi Charef
  • Mes mauvaises pensées or Tomboy by Nina Bouraoui

Must-reads for understanding the historical context and contemporary debates

  • The Invention of Decolonization: The Algerian War and the Remaking of France by Todd Shepard
  • A Mission to Civilize: The Republican Idea of Empire in France and West Africa, 1895-1930 by Alice Conklin
  • The Algerian War, the Algerian Revolution by Natalya Vince
  • The Memory of Colonialism in Britain and France: The Sins of Silence by Itay Lotem
  • Paris 1961: Algerians, State Terror, and Memory by Jim House and Neil MacMaster
  • Empire’s Children: Race, Filiation and Citizenship in the French Colonies by Emmanuelle Saada
  • Fantasia: An Algerian Cavalcade by Assia Djebar

 

Lesser-Known Medieval Sites in Paris 

While much of the Roman Paris, called Lutetia, was destroyed by centuries of barbarian and Viking invasions, a number of vestiges from the Middle Ages have managed to survive, bearing witness to Paris’ rich, layered history. After you’ve seen les incontournables Notre Dame, Sainte Chapelle, and Saint-Germain-des-Prés, go in search of these lesser-known Medieval sites, now carefully woven into the city’s modern fabric.

College des Bernadins - study in Paris

Le Collège des Bernardins

The Latin Quarter, which occupies much of the north of the 5th arrondissement, is home to the largest concentration of Medieval vestiges in Paris. The area used to be dotted with various colleges and monasteries, many which eventually formed the University of Paris. What’s left of one of these, Le Collège des Bernardins, sits peacefully on the quiet rue de Poissy. Dating back to the mid 13th century, its large refectory, or dining hall, can be visited free of charge during opening hours. Fully restored, this space is still used today for conferences. 

Address: 20 Rue de Poissy, 75005 Paris

Eglise des Saints-Archanges-study-abroad-in-Paris

l’Église des Saints-Archanges

Found a short walk from the Collège des Bernardins are the remnants of another Medieval college. Built in the late 13th century, the Collège de Beauvais was one of the largest in the whole area. The only part of it that withstood the Revolutionary destruction of religious buildings and the Haussmann modernisation of the city in the mid-1800s is its former chapel. Modelled after Sainte-Chapelle, it’s since been converted into a Romanian Orthodox church and can be visited, although check its opening hours first as they are limited. Learn more about it, and the history of it and the other Medieval colleges, in episode 5 of the Paris Caché podcast.

Address:  9 Bis Rue Jean de Beauvais, 75005 Paris

Tour Clovis (Clovis Tower)

If you’re studying at the historic Bibliothèque Sainte Geneviève, located near the Pantheon, you may have already noticed this intriguing tower jutting into the sky beside the Saint-Etienne-du-Mont Church. The bell tower is all that remains of the former Sainte-Geneviève church, which was part of an abbey of the same name, founded in 502 by Clovis, the first king of the Franks. The abbey church was torn down when a larger replacement church was commenced. If you look carefully at the 45-metre bell tower you can see the style varies slightly as it rises, the bottom part being constructed in the 11th century versus the 15th century for the top half. The Tour Clovis, along with the parts of the abbey which were not destroyed during the Revolution, are now a prestigious high school, le Lycée Henri IV.

Address: 65 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, 75005 Paris

Enceinte-Philippe-Auguste

Vestiges of the Philippe Auguste Wall

The first major wall around Paris was constructed by King Philippe Auguste from the late 12th to early 13th centuries. Encompassing just over 5 kilometres on both banks of the city, it rose six to eight metres in height and had  77 semi-circular towers at 60-metre intervals. The city wall was expanded on the Right Bank in the mid 1300s by Charles V. These walls were gradually torn down during the reign of Louis XIV; however, a few sections are still visible. Near the Tour Clovis, further down on rue Clovis, is a one of these. On the Right Bank, you can spot a few sections in the Marais including a large section behind the Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis church (along the basketball court) and also in the Jardin des Rosiers-Joseph Migneret (pictured above).

Hôtel de Sens

The Marais district hides a few other Medieval gems, like this historic residence. One of the last buildings constructed in the Gothic style in Paris, it was commissioned in 1475 as the city mansion for the bishops of Sens. It is one of only two Medieval civic buildings in the Gothic style that survived the centuries, the other being the Hotel de Cluny, now the National Medieval Museum. This building now houses the Forney art library. Although it was heavily restored, you can see its turreted towers, gargoyles and interior courtyard (top image). Don’t miss its lovely back garden and before you leave, take note of the facade. You’ll see a small round object with the words “28 juillet 1830,“ the date of the start of the Trois Glorieuses, the three-day revolution that toppled what history refers to as the July Monarchy. Cannonballs were flying through the area and one of these got lodged into the wall!

Address: 7 Rue des Nonnains d’Hyères, 75004 Paris

Photo credit: Cloître des Billettes: Guilhem Vellut / CC

The Billettes Cloister

Tucked away on the lively rue des Archives is Paris’s only remaining Medieval cloister. Constructed in 1427 next to the convent of the Brothers of Charity Hospital of Our Lady (mostly known today as Les Billettes). The church itself was rebuilt in the mid-18th century, but the cloisters went untouched. Recently restored, today they host temporary art exhibitions and other events in addition to serving as a Protestant (Lutheran) worship space. 

Address: 24 Rue des Archives, 75004 Paris

Hotel de Clisson Paris

Hôtel de Clisson

Further up the street on rue des Archives you can notice some intriguing turrets. These are all that remain of the former Hôtel de Clisson, the residence of Olivier de Clisson. When it was built in the 1300s, the hôtel stood just outside the Paris city walls. In 1553 it was bought by François de Lorraine, the Duke of Guise, and was later sold by his family to the Prince and Princess de Soubise. This noble family then demolished most of the Medieval building to make way from a more modern home, today the home of the National Archives, which is accessed via rue des Francs Bourgeois. The historic restored baroque interiors can also be visited free of charge.

Tour Saint-Jacques (St James Tower)

One of the last Medieval structures built in Paris, this flamboyant Gothic tower, standing close to Place de Châtelet, is all that is left of the Eglise Saint-Jacques-de-la-Boucherie, which was destroyed in 1797 during the French Revolutionary period. The church and its bell tower were built between 1509 and 1523, funded by the butchers of the nearby Les Halles Market. You can admire the tower from the garden which surrounds it or visit it during guided tours held seasonally mid-summer to mid-autumn.

Address: Square de la tour Saint-Jacques 75004 Paris

You can visit more intriguing offbeat sites in Paris, including the Medieval Tour Saint Jean le Peur, in this other article on our blog! 

And if you’re interested in travelling further afield, check out the well-preserved ramparts and impressive gates of Provins, once a medieval trading hub, accessible via commuter rail from Paris.

Interested in delving deeping into Medieval Studies in Paris? Consider applying for our in Medieval and Early Modern Studies MA offered at the Paris School of Arts and Culture. Discover this and our other Master’s Programmes in the Humanities taught in Paris here.

Exploring Paris’s Chinatown(s)

Over the centuries, people from around the world have come to Paris, leading to a number of cosmopolitan neighbourhoods around the city. Among these are three different Chinatowns, two of which are more prominent. Although they tend to lack some of the charm of the Chinatowns in cities like London, New York, San Fransisco or Vancouver, they are abound in colours, flavours and life. Enjoy a sensorial visit to the Chinatowns of Paris thanks to these useful tips.

Study Abroad in Paris

Rue au Maire. Photo: Ralf Treinen / CC

Arts-et-Métiers

The city’s original Chinatown is found in pocket of the 3rd arrondissement. As the traditional wholesale clothing district of the city, some Chinese, particularly from Wenzhou, settled in the area. Not too much is still visible today, however, around the City Hall of the district (la Mairie du 3ème) some Chinese shops and restaurants can be found on rue au Maire, rue Volta, rue du Temple and rue des Gravilliers.

Photo: Le Président

Belleville

Traditionally working class, rebellious and artistic, the neighbourhood of Belleville is likely Paris’s biggest melting pots. Along the bustling Boulevard de Belleville one can find North African hookah lounges, Jewish delis and Asian supermarkets. Asians first started settling here due to the establishment of French territories of Indochina (modern-day Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos) in the second half of the 1800s. Immigrants for China also settled in the area before the establishment of Les Olympiades (see below).

The area’s most famous restaurant is Le Président, a vast Cantonese restaurant presiding over the intersection at métro Belleville (closed for renovations until December 2021). For great Vietnamese pho or bobun, grab a table at Chez Yu and vegetarians might want to track down Best Tofu, a small casual joint packed with Asian diners (best for lunch as it closes at 8pm). There are also two branches of the popular Chinese supermarket Paris Store, found on Boulevard de la Villette, the northern extension of Boulevard de Belleville.

Paris Olympiades. Photo: Thierry Bézecourt / CC

Les Olympiades

The more active heart of the Chinese community in Paris is located in the Olympiades district of the 13th arrondissement. Europe’s largest Chinatown, in terms of size, while it isn’t necessarily the most typically picturesque Parisian district, due to its 1970s high-rises, it’s still a vibrant neighbourhood and is also historically significant to the evolution of the city.

As Paris was modernising in the 20th century, the former factories of the 13th district began closing down. This left way for new development, which was undertaken by architect Michel Holley. Strongly influenced by Le Corbusier, he created a neighbourhood of eight 104-metre high apartment towers around a central plaza. Totally almost 3,000 flats, the new district was unpopular with Parisians, however, at the time there was an influx in migrants from the disintegrating Indochina territories, who ended up settling here in Les Olympiades.

Enjoy a wander within the triangle formed by Avenue d’Ivry, Avenue de Choisy and Boulevard Masséna. Make sure you explore the La Pagode shopping mall, located in the centre of the Les Olympiades esplanade. Here you’ll find shops selling Asian knick-knacks, goods and food as well as casual eateries with plastic stools just like in Hanoi.

For sights, try to find the Hidden Buddhist Temple which is located in the a car park at 37 rue du Disque, there is also a Taoist temple at 44 avenue d’Ivry, which you can pop into by removing your shoes. A stop in at one of the famous Tang Frères supermarkets is also a must. Founded in 1976 by brothers from Laos, the large shops sell good value pan-Asian food. While we don’t recommend eating there, you might smile at seeing the area’s McDonald’s, at 9-11 Avenue de Choisy, which has an Asian look.

For a meal instead enjoy some excellent Vietnamese soup at Pho Bành Cuon 14, dig into some tasty and reasonably priced southeast Asian food at Lao Lane Xang 2, or have a traditional Chinese meal at Li Ka Fo. For something on the go, track down Thieng Heng, for an authentic Vietnamese banh mi sandwich, or some bubble tea at Bubble House.

If you’re in Paris at the right time of year, try to visit the neighbourhood is for the New Year Lunar celebrations. During this annually changing period, taking place at the end of January or early February, the streets are decked out in banners and lanterns and a lively parade is held.

We hope you enjoy your cultural and culinary explorations! You may like to pair an outing the Les Olympiades with the nearby Butte-aux-Cailles, which is included in this article on the Former Villages of Paris.

Then if you’re looking for further places to discover in Paris, check out these other articles from our blog:

Top Image: Chinese New Year in Paris. Georges Seguin (Okki) / CC

Chateau de Vincennes

Interesting (and Economical) Day Trips from Paris

With its hundreds of museums, intriguing historic sites and vibrant neighbourhoods to discover, there is plenty to do in Paris. However, it can also be nice to get away from the busy city centre, have a change of scenery or take in some nature. Luckily, Ile-de-France, the greater Parisian metropolitan area, has an abundance of fantastic day trip options, many of which you can access completely free, especially if you have a student transit pass. Here are some of our favourites.

Basilique-Cathédrale de Saint-Denis

Photo: Basilique-Cathédrale de Saint-Denis

Basilique-Cathédrale de Saint-Denis

Although Notre-Dame Cathedral might be the world’s most famous Gothic cathedral, the first built in this style is sitting on the norther edge of Paris. Started in the 1130s, the church was constructed above the presumed grave of one of France’s earliest saints, Denis, who was executed by the Roman rulers of the times in around 270 AD. Over the centuries the church rose in prominence and became the final resting place of France’s monarchs, holding the remains of all but three of kings from the 10th century until 1789. Visitors today can admire the royal tombs while gazing up at the church’s flying buttresses, pointed arches and stained glass windows.

  • Address & Information: Cathedral Website
  • Getting there: 30-40 minute by Métro, line 13 to Basilique de Saint-Denis station. Short walk, follow the signposts. Note: Saint-Denis can be a little sketchy so we don’t recommend veer off the main streets.
  • Cost: Free for EU Nationals under 26 and other students with valid ID.
Bois de Vincennes Paris

Chateau de Vincennes (top) and Bois de Vincennes boat-rides

Château et Bois de Vincennes

A quick jaunt outside the eastern border of Paris will take you to this impressive medieval fortress and sprawling woods. A royal hunting lodge dating back to the mid-12th century, in the 1300s King Charles V added the imposing 52-metre-high donjon, the tallest in Europe and still standing today. Although the royals used it as a residence over the centuries, it was never revamped like castles of Versailles or Fontainebleau. The fortress was eventually converted into a prison, which held some infamous prisoners such as the Marquis de Sade and Louis XIV’s rival Nicolas Fouquet. Pack a picnic and make a day of it by carrying on your explorations in the adjacent Bois de Vincennes. The huge woods has kilometres of pathways, a lake where you can rent out boats, a Buddhist Temple and a botanical garden, le Parc Floral de Paris, which hosts a variety of events including open-air concerts, mostly in summer.

  • Address & Information: Chateau de Vincennes Website
  • Getting There: 30-40 minute by Métro, line 1 to Château de Vincennes, or RER A to Vincennes. Castle right outside Métro station.
  • Cost: Exterior of castle and woods are free, interior is free for EU Nationals under 26 and other students with valid ID. If you wish to visit the Parc Floral it has a small entrance fee.

Chateau de Fontainebleau

Château et Foret de Fontainebleau 

Skip the crowds at Versailles by venturing to this marvellous castle southeast of Paris instead. Another favorite hunting retreat of the royals, King Francois I redesigned the castle in the Renaissance style. It features opulent rooms decked out in elaborately carved wood, paintings, mirrors and more. The castle was also a favourite of Napoléon Bonaparte, who refurbished parts of it in the Imperial style. Behind the castle are beautiful gardens à la francaise, or to better connect with nature, spend the afternoon exploring the forest’s extensive hiking trails. If you visit on Tuesday, Friday or Sunday, before heading to the castle, you can pick up some picnic supplies at Fontainebleau’s food market.

  • Address & Information: Castle’s website. See some suggested hikes here.
  • Getting There: An hour from central Paris, 40 minutes by suburban train from Gare de Lyon (line R) to Fontainebleau-Avon. Castle a short walk from the station.
  • Cost: Castle free for EU Nationals under 26 and students with ID. Forest is free.

Auvers-sur-Oise

Auvers-sur-Oise

While visiting Monet’s home and garden in Giverny can make for a nice art excursion from Paris, there is much more to see, and far fewer crowds, in this charming village briefly inhabited by and the final resting place of Vincent van Gogh. Strolling through town, helpful panels show you the various places the Post-Impressionist painter captured on canvas, copies shown on the boards and many of the originals are displayed at the Musée d’Orsay. You can also visit or have lunch at the inn he lodged at, the Auberge Ravoux, and pay homage to the troubled artist at his grave in the local cemetery. The town has several other sites, including a small castle, various art studios and homes of other 19th century artists and a museum dedicated to Absinthe. On summertime weekends the town often holds art or music festivals.

  • Address & Information: Tourism website. Visit from March to October as many sites are closed in winter
  • Getting There: In summertime there is a direct train on weekend mornings around 9:30 am from Gare du Nord which is only 30 minutes. The rest of the year it’s an hour train ride from Saint-Lazare or Gare du Nord, take a regional train to Pontoise, change here for the trains in the direction of Persan-Beaumont, get off at Auvers station.
  • Cost: Free to walk around, small entry fee for various sites.
provins

Photo: Provins Tourisme

Provins

If you’d like to get a taste of France without going too far, then consider visiting this medieval town east of Paris. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the beautiful hilltop village thrived over the centuries due to its position as a fiefdom of the Counts of Champagne and its popular fairs, which still take place before Christmas. A visit at any time of year will delight thanks to its magical historic centre home to the Tour César fortress, stone churches, narrow lanes and protective city walls.

  • Address & Information: Local tourism website
  • Getting There: Around an 80-minute train journey, Gare de l’Est to Provins. The town is accessible on foot from the station.
  • Cost: Most sites can be visited freely from the exterior.

Photo: Street art by C215, Vitry-Sur-Seine / Paris Tourisme

Contemporary Art & Street Art in Vitry-Sur-Seine

For something more offbeat, considering visiting this close southeaster suburb popular with street artists. The city is home to MAC/VAL, France’s only museum dedicated to contemporary art from the 1950s to today. In the shadow of a towering Jean Dubuffet statue, the contemporary building houses over 2,000 works by both well-established names like Christian Boltanski and Annette Messager, and up-and-coming artists. After visiting the museum, continue your artistic discoveries in the streets of Vitry, where you’ll come across hundreds of works by French and international street artists like C215, Indigo, Kashink, Swoon and Alice Pasquini. This artistic flourishing has earned the city the title of “Capital of Street Art.” You can find the works easily using this helpful map and discover more about Parisian street artists in our article here.

  • Address & Information: MAC/VAL website
  • Getting There: Around a 30-45 minute trip from central Paris by Métro and bus, line 7 to Porte de Choisy then bus 172, 180 or 183 to Place de la Libération.
  • Cost: Free for under 26 and other students with valid ID.

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Art History Master's in Paris

Touring the Former Villages of Paris

Paris grew from its centre, around the Ile-de-la-Cité, outwards. Once walled, over the centuries the city burst beyond its boundaries and new fortifications would be built. As part of the vast mid-19th century urban renewal of Paris undertaken by Prefect Baron Haussmann and Napoleon III, in 1860 the space between Paris’s last pair of city walls was annexed. Amidst the fields and vineyards of this zone were a number of villages. Remnants of several of these remain and provide a fascinating look into the past. From Montmartre to the Butte-aux-Cailles, these charming village neighbourhoods are the perfect weekend outing.

Maison Rose, Montmartre, Paris

Montmartre

The best known of Paris’s former villages, Montmartre is known for Sacré-Coeur and the nearby artist square, Place du Tertre. However, there’s much more to the neighbourhood. Once a working class village on the northern fringes of Paris, Montmartre started to draw artists in the 1870s thanks to its cheap rent and free-flowing joie de vivre. A visit around its back streets guides you past small houses, windmills and the former residents and art studios of late 19th and early 20th century artists including Renoir, van Gogh, Suzanne Valadon and Picasso.

Belleville Paris

Belleville

The most rebellious of Paris’s former villages, the neighbourhood of Belleville still attracts more alternative Parisians. Its proximity to the gypsum quarries located on this edge of Paris brought in a working class popular. French music legend Edith Piaf spent part of her childhood in the area and famously claimed to have been born on rue de Belleville (instead of in the nearby hospital listed on her birth certificate). Reasonable rents also drew in waves of immigrant communities, including Greeks, Armenians, Tunisian Jews, Moroccans, Vietnamese and Chinese. This has created a vibrant cosmopolitan community peppered with, art studios, inventive restaurants and a laid-back vibe. A popular place with street arts, look out for their creations on your way to the top of the Parc de Belleville, where you can admire one of the nicest views of Paris.

Butte-aux-Cailles

This village on a slight hill (or butte in French) in southeastern Paris developed around a vineyard that the area’s namesake, a certain Pierre Caille, bought in 1543. Today this small town ambiance still exists around a grouping of cobbled streets lined with relaxed bars and restaurants. You can soak up the countryside feel meandering the charming streets, like rue des Cinq Diamants, passage Barrault and rue Moulin des Près. You’ll eventually come to the place Paul Verlaine, the old main square of the village (pictured above). It’s one of the centres for street art in Paris, so look out for this along your way. You can end your stroll with a drink on rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles, its bars popular with students from nearby campuses of the University of Paris.

Passy

Now part of the chic 16th district, found across the river from the Eiffel Tower, this plain used to be owned by the lords of Auteuil and Passy. Villages grew up around both and there are remains here and there in the area. Track down the Maison de Balzac, a cottage turned museum where Honoré de Balzac lived for a time (more on it and other literary residences in this article). Then around the corner you can find rue Berton (pictured above). One of the narrowest streets in Paris and protected by high stone walls, it used to marked the border between the sprawling estates of Auteuil and Passy (the 1731 boundary sign is still posted). Poet Guillaume Apollinaire wrote about the lane in his 1918 book Le Flâneur des Deux Rives, describing it as “one of the most scenic corners of Paris.”

Les Batignolles

Les Batignolles

Until the French Revolution, the northwest section of what is now the 17th district, was one of the hunting grounds for Parisian nobles. In the early 1800s a village began popping up here, around the Place du Dr Félix Lobligeois. It encircles the neo-classical Église Sainte-Marie des Batignolles, built in conjunction with the square, and is fringed on the northside by the beautiful Square des Batignolles. Previously also home to the local town hall, the square can be your starting point for exploring this up and coming area, abundant in small designer shops, buzzing cafés and restaurants.

Charonne

Found to the east of Belleville, the former village of Charonne is one of the most charming relics of pre Haussmann Paris. This can be observed on the old “main street” of the village, Rue Saint-Blaise, and its parish church, the Eglise Saint-Germain de Charonne. The church itself goes as far back as the 12th century, but was remodelled in the 15th and 18th centuries. It sits above the village and also still has its former parish cemetery, only one of two that still exist (the other is next to Saint Peter of Montmartre). A walk down Rue Saint-Blaise, lined with cafés and boutiques, truly gives you a sense of make visiting a small French village.

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Medici Column

Offbeat Historic Sites to Seek Out in Paris

Paris isn’t only about its world-famous sites like Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower and the Champs Elysées. In fact, the city has dozens, in not hundreds, or curious places which date for different eras of the city and tell its story. From the Medieval towers to the remnants of the Bastille fortress, here are some fascinating sites to take you off the beaten path in Paris.

Medici Column, Bourse de Commerce Paris

The Medici Column

Many people are currently flocking to visit the newly (re)opened Bourse de Commerce, now home to the Pinault collection of contemporary art (more on it here), however, rising behind its dome is a very curious site. The area used to house a palace, the Hôtel de Soissons, which was inhabited by Queen Catherine de Medici after her husband King Henri II’s death in 1559. The Queen was very interested in the occult and she even called Nostradamus to Paris to advise her on the future. She had this 28-meter-high column built in 1575 as a the lookout point for her astrologer Cosimo Ruggieri. While its 145 steps are closed to the public, you can admire it from the ground level. Be sure to look out for its decoration of the royal couple’s emblem of an intertwined H and C as well as cornucopia and broken mirrors.

Address: behind 2 Rue de Viarmes, 75001 Paris

 Tour Jean-sans-Peur

Tucked amidst the buildings of the busy rue Etienne Marcel is an out-of-place ancient tower. A rare medieval building in Paris, the Tour Jean-sans-Peur dates back to the early 1400s and is all that remains of the palace of the Dukes of Burgundy which once stood here. The 21 metre-high tower is also the tallest medieval civic building in the city. It’s open to the public and displays temporary exhibits on medieval themes.

Address: 20 Rue Étienne Marcel, 75002 Paris

Square Henri Galli Paris

Remains of the Bastille

Lots of people who come to Paris exit the Bastille métro station and Bastille fortress is. The symbol of the outbreak of the Revolution, the Bastille was gradually torn down and the smaller artefacts were sold off as collector’s items like pieces of the Berlin Wall. Many of the larger blocks of the fortress were used to build the Concorde Bridge, which crosses the Seine from Place de la Concorde to l’Assemblée Nationale.  In the métro on the platform of line 5, there are relics of where the fortress stood and then there is a regrouping of one of the Bastille’s towers hidden in the shrubs of this little park near the Seine, the Square Henri Galli. Called the “Liberté” tower, it was uncovered in 1899 at the start of rue Saint-Antoine during the construction of the métro line 1 and then moved here.

Address: 9 Bd Henri IV, 75004 Paris

Gnomon, Saint Sulpice. PHGCOM / CC

Gnomon of Saint Sulpice

When Dan Brown published his bestselling book The Da Vinci Code in 2003, this lesser known Left Bank church was thrown into the spotlight. People from around the globe came to see the unusual obelisk he described as marking the Paris Meridian or “Rose Line. Although Brown’s facts weren’t entirely accurate, the object is indeed fascinating and historic. Built in the early 1700s, the or obelisk, or gnomon, was an astronomical instrument used to determine the date of Easter thanks to a shadow cast on the obelisk. When you’re visiting the church, which also happens to be the second largest in Paris after Notre Dame, be sure to view the wonderful paintings by Delacroix found in the chapel on the right of the entrance.

Address: Place Saint-Sulpice, 75006 Paris

Expiatory Chapel

This lesser known site located near the Madeleine Church is one of the most hidden and mysterious sites in Paris. The land around this small square used to hold the Madeleine cemetery. It was here where Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were first buried after their guillotining in 1793 in nearby Place de la Concorde. After the final defeat of Napoleon and the restoration of the monarchy in 1815, their bodies were moved to the Cathedral of Saint Denis (which houses the tombs of most French royals). In 1826 the cemetery was replaced by the Expiatory Chapel, a homage to the tragic royal couple, funded by their daughter, Marie-Therèse and the next king, Louis XVIII. In the crypt there’s a black and white marble altar sitting on the spot where the King and Queen’s remains were found. The chapel can be visited on weekends.

Address: 29 Rue Pasquier, 75008 Paris

Château de la Reine Blanche. Photo: Siren-Com/ CC

Le Château de la Reine Blanche

Called the Castle of the White Queen, this residence was built in 1290 by the Queen Marguerite de Provence, although it was named after her daughter, Blanche de France, who inherited the manor house. It was constructed next to what was Paris’s second river, la Bièvre, which is still flows underground. The small castle is privately owned and but can often be visited on the Journées du Patrimoine (European Heritage Days) held the third weekend in September. If you can’t make it for that event, you can get a good look at the outside of it from the street.

Address: 6 Rue Gustave Geffroy, 75013 Paris

Saint Sergius Orthodox Church and Theological Institute

One of the most curious places of worship in Paris is hidden down a verdant lane near the Buttes-Chaumont Park. Originally commissioned as a German Lutheran church, it was abandoned after WWI and converted into a Russian Orthodox theological centre and church in 1925. The gate is open during the day and so you can pop in to have a look at the exterior, but if you come on Sunday mornings, you can take a peek at the interiors during service.

Address: 93 Rue de Crimée, 75019 Paris. Website

Au Roi de la Bière Paris

Au Roi de la Bière

To finish on a fun note, we’re taking you to look at the most unusually looking fast-food restaurant in Paris. Now a McDonald’s, this building across from the Saint-Lazare train station was built as an Alsatian brasserie in 1892. After Alsace and Lorraine were annexed to Germany at the defeat of the French in the 1870 Franco-Prussian War, many residents loyal to France moved to the Parisian capital. They brought their beer brewing traditions with you, which led to the opening of brasseries across the city and Au Roi de la Biére, or “The King of Beer” in English, was one of these. Designed to look like an Alsatian half-timbered house, and decked out in beer steins and a statue of Gambrinus (the legendary King of Beer), since it was classified as a national monument in 1997 McDonald’s could move it, but had to leave its facade untouched. So if you go here for a Big Mac, order a beer to go with it!

Address: 119 Rue Saint-Lazare, 75008 Paris

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Montparnasse Study Abroad in Paris

Our Guide to the Montparnasse Neighbourhood

For centuries the Montparnasse district of Paris has attracted writers, poets, artists, filmmakers and other creatives. Once just outside the southern edge of Paris, in the 16th century the area was a depository for rubble and stones extracted from neighbouring quarries. In the 18th century, students started gathered at this artificial hill, or “mont”, to recite poetry. They nicknamed the location “Montparnasse”, after Mount Parnassus, the home of poetry, music, and learning in ancient Greek mythology.

In the mid-1800s, open-air dancehalls began popping up on the fringes of the Paris and several appeared here, creating a laid-back and lively ambiance, which remained after the district was incorporated into Paris in 1860. In the early 20th century, as the Montparnasse train station serves western France, working class people from the region of Brittany settled in the area and brought the art of creperies with them, a tradition that carries on to this day. Cheap rents also began drawing artists, their numbers increasing when Pablo Picasso abandoned Montmartre for the Montparnasse in the 1910s. This creative surge peaked in the 1920s when Montparnasse and its buzzing cafés became the epicentre for Parisian nightlife and the city’s artistic and literary scene.

This inspirational location is the setting for our Paris School of Arts and Culture. You may like to get to know the area with the help of this guide to Montparnasse including sites of interest, art venues, cinemas, cafés and more.

Sites of Interest

Montparnasse Cemetery

Often over-shadowed by Père Lachaise cemetery, this beautiful final resting place, the second largest in Paris, is also worth a visit. It too has its equal share of notable tombs, including those of Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, Charles Baudelaire, Brancusi, Marguerite Duras and, perhaps the most visited, singer Serge Gainsbourg.

Tour Montparnasse

It’s impossible to miss this 210-metre (689 ft) skyscraper which juts out of the Parisian horizon. Although it’s not the most attractive of Paris’s landmarks, the tower dating back to 1973 does have an impressive view from the top, which you can take in from its paid viewing deck on the 56th floor.

Luxembourg Gardens

Bordering the Montparnasse district is one of Paris’s loveliest parks. It was once the private gardens of the 17th-century palace commissioned by Queen Marie de Medici on the north side of the park, now the French Senate. The park was much loved by early 20th century writers, including Ernest Hemingway. A great place for a study break or to catch up on your reading, be sure to seek out the gorgeous Medici Fountain, a renaissance “grotto” fountain located on the east side of the palace, and the maquette of the Statue of Liberty, found on the east side.

Rue de la Gaité

On the east side of the cemetery is this lively street lined with historic theatres. Theatres began popping up here in the 1870s, and some historic ones, like the Comédie Italienne and Théâtre Bobino still exist.

Marché Edgar Quinet

Visiting a Parisian open-air food market is a must during your time in the city and there’s an excellent one which is held on Boulevard Edgar Quinet every Wednesday and Saturday morning until 1:30/2pm.

Musée Bourdelle

Photo: Musée Bourdelle

Art Venues

Musée Zadkine

The former studio of Russian-born artist Ossip Zadkine is found a short walk from our Paris School, located on the edge of the Luxembourg Gardens. It’s now a City of Paris museum and has free admission. Learn more about it in our article on historic art studios.

Musée Bourdelle

Another former studio of the Montparnasse area, the sculptor Antoine Bourdelle worked in this beautiful series of buildings near the Montparnasse train station. More information is also available about it in our article on historic art studios.

Fondation Giacometti

As you can gather from its name, this foundation presents exhibitions revovling around Alberto Giacometti and is near where the Swiss artist lived and worked in the Montparnasse area.

Fondation Cartier

A few blocks from our Paris School, this sleek glass and steel building was designed by French architect Jean Nouvel and houses temporary exhibits by top contemporary artists. Read more about it and other cool contemporary art spaces in this article.

Chemin du Montparnasse

A walk down this pretty lane at 21 avenue du Maine will give you a good idea of what the art studios of Montparnasse neighborhood were like. The verdant cul-de-sac consists of a series of studios built from salvaged material from the 1900s World’s Fair.

Historic Cafés

The cafés of the Boulevard du Montparnasse were the heart of artistic and literary Paris from the 1920s to 50s. While it’s wonderful many of them have survived, the cost of a drink at most of them is rather steep, but admiring them from the outside is free! You can read more about some of the cafés below and other literary cafés of the Left Bank in this article.

La Closerie Des Lilas

Opened in the 1860s, this café was popular with avant-garde artists, poets and writers such as Paul Verlaine, Charles Baudelaire Samuel Beckett, Oscar Wilde, F. Scott Fitzgerald and Ernest Hemingway who is said to have read Fitzgerald’s manuscript of The Great Gatsby here, and worked on The Sun Also Rises.

Le Dôme

Opened in 1898 and once known as “the Anglo-American café,” it was the first meeting place in Montparnasse of the intellectuals. There is even a special term, “Dômiers” to designate the artists and writers who met at the café, which includes the likes of Foujita, Picasso, Man Ray, Soutine, Khalil Gibran and Kandinsky. Today it is restaurant specialised in seafood dishes.

La Rotonde

Situation around the corner from our Paris School, Hemingway talked about the café’s popularity in The Sun Also Rises. Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein, Picasso, Modigliani and many others also regularly frequented it.

La Coupole

This legendary Art Deco brasserie, the largest of the area, was an important gathering point of artists, writers and intellectuals especially in the 1920s when it was the place to be. One a given night you might cross paths with the likes of Jean Cocteau, Alberto Giacometti or Josephine Baker.

Le Select

Opened in 1923, this local brasserie was a favourite of Fitzgerald, Hemingway and Picasso, who is name the small square in front of the café now bears.

Le-Lucernaire-paris

Movie Theatres

As a hub of going out in Paris, the Montparnasse district has several movie theatres, some more main stream and one great art house cinema.

Lucernaire

Found a short distance from our Paris School, this unique venue is more than just an art house cinema. Opened in 1969, the multifaceted art centre has three theatres, three screening rooms, a bookshop, art gallery, restaurant and bar. Discover more art house cinemas in Paris in this article.

MK2 Parnasse

France’s more artsy chain of cinemas, MK2 general screens critically acclaimed movies, art house films and quality international features. This location is near our School.

UGC Rotonde

This branch of the large chain of UGC cinemas is also located a few minutes’ walk from the School.

UGC Montparnasse

Another UGC, this cinema is situated closer to Montparnasse métro and tower.

Gaumont Parnasse

Part of the historic Gaumont cinema group, this movie theatre plays main stream, independent and international films.

Coffee Spots

Un Grain Décalé

For the best coffee within a short walk from the School, try this nice specialty coffee shop on rue Vavin and close to the Luxembourg Gardens (hours Weds-Sun 10:30-6pm, Tues 2-6pm).

Funzy Café

The local “café du coin” or neighbourhood café is doing takeaway coffee, maybe not the best, but cheap and your chance to rub shoulders with the locals who hang around in front of it.

Ten Belles 6

The Left Bank outpost of a well-known coffee shop in the 10th arrondissement is less than a 10-minute walk away, in between the School and the Bon Marché department store.

Dining

We’ve put together our top lunch options in the Montparnasse area for tasty cheap eats in this separate article.

Montparnasse Guide Map

Discover the places above easily via our Google Map of the area. Access it at this link.